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Obsolete SCAG Idler arm assembly #46145

#1

R

Rich9

Hi all,
I need to replace a worn out idler arm for my 52" Scag walk behind SWZ-14KA built in 1990.
The hub portion has been damaged by letting the bronze bushing wear out very badly.
Problem is: The part needed is the 46145 but it is no longer available at Scag and they do not provide any alternate idler arm to use.
So I am sending this message to see if anyone may have this arm assembly to sell. Used or new.
Please let me know if you have this part on hand or know another source.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much.

Richard


#2

StarTech

StarTech

Several online dealers doesn't show the part as NLA. And there is one on eBay but he wants your first born.

Have you tried Googling the part number as "Scag 46145"?


#3

S

slomo

If all else fails, take it to a machine shop or local vo-tech welding/metal shop. A bushing should be easy to swap with correct tools.


#4

R

Rich9

StarTech said:
Several online dealers doesn't show the part as NLA. And there is one on eBay but he wants your first born.

Have you tried Googling the part number as "Scag 46145"?
Click to expand...
That's the problem. The part shows up on many online stores as still alive but when you place the order they realize it is not available anymore from the manufacturer (Scag). But I appreciate the reply though.
Thanks
Richard


#5

R

Rich9

slomo said:
If all else fails, take it to a machine shop or local vo-tech welding/metal shop. A bushing should be easy to swap with correct tools.
Click to expand...
Hi slomo,
You mean to have a shop remove the existing hub and replace with a new hub? I thought of asking about reworking the old hub but did not consider replacing it. The hub is just a cylindrical steel tube with a grease entry halfway down the length. Of course the hub ID needs to be machined to receive the two bronze sleeves.
Good idea.
Thanks
Richard


#6

StarTech

StarTech

The last version of the arm did have bushings that could be replaced if machined properly. But since the hub is tacked welded it could be removed and replaced by a skill craftsman.

1731090841781.png


#7

7394

7394

Agreed, good machine shop..


#8

S

slomo

Some local schools slash vo-techs will do the labor for free. You buy the parts. Worth a free phone call I bet.


#9

R

Rich9

StarTech said:
The last version of the arm did have bushings that could be replaced if machined properly. But since the hub is tacked welded it could be removed and replaced by a skill craftsman.

View attachment 70035
Click to expand...
Hi StarTech,
This is what I got. See photos attached. I now see there is a steel sleeve in that hub. Then it must receive the two bronze bearings, correct? Those bronze pieces are easy to get but I have not seen the steel sleeve available out there. The picture on the right shows the area where the sleeve is worn out. I am not sure how a shop could replace the steel insert. I thank you for your reply.

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#10

StarTech

StarTech

In the middle pix it appears that you have worn completely thru the bushing so it need removing and the bore may need slightly resized to recenter things as you want the new bushing(s) to be making full contact. It also may just be the way pix looks here.

Now there might enough the steel busing to get the PN number off it for the manufacture of the bushing. The problem there is if anyone sells a small quantity of them. This is the problem doing a lot repairs as locals just don't provide us the parts like they did years ago as today's techs are a lot lazier than but in my early years of working on things.

Now is two bronze bushings will work, they should or you could go with a full length one and just drill out the material where the zerk goes. Just be aware that bronze bushing will not last long as the steel one so you need to check on it more often and make you keep it greased.

As for the bushing sizing is one you would need do on your end as I have never had one these arms in my shop so I don't have the specs from one I have done. But you should be able get the bronze bushings from Grainger.


#11

H

Honest Abe

have you checked "PartsTree.com", it shows up for $108.99, but you'd have to call to be certain ..../


#12

StarTech

StarTech

The Abe it is that vendors and their suppliers are not updating the price files like they should. This causes me problems on other OEM prices files as I use them to quote my customers. Lately both distributors showed a part available via the price file downloads just a day before. One item I was trying get apparently been since 2019 but was showing as an active part. Another part had increase in cost above the suggested retail price in the price file. This cause me to lose money on the sale as I quote the price per the price file and that was double checked on their website. I honored my quoted price but had rework that SKU on my system to reflect the new cost.

So basically it not always the sellers fault an item is shown available when the OEM doesn't provide us with the latest info.


#13

R

Rich9

StarTech said:
In the middle pix it appears that you have worn completely thru the bushing so it need removing and the bore may need slightly resized to recenter things as you want the new bushing(s) to be making full contact. It also may just be the way pix looks here.

Now there might enough the steel busing to get the PN number off it for the manufacture of the bushing. The problem there is if anyone sells a small quantity of them. This is the problem doing a lot repairs as locals just don't provide us the parts like they did years ago as today's techs are a lot lazier than but in my early years of working on things.

Now is two bronze bushings will work, they should or you could go with a full length one and just drill out the material where the zerk goes. Just be aware that bronze bushing will not last long as the steel one so you need to check on it more often and make you keep it greased.

As for the bushing sizing is one you would need do on your end as I have never had one these arms in my shop so I don't have the specs from one I have done. But you should be able get the bronze bushings from Grainger.
Click to expand...
Hello Startech,
Sorry. The hub photos I sent are showing you the hub without the bronze bearings. I removed them. The new attached photos show you the two bronze bearings next to the hub. You can tell these bronze pieces are worn out to the point there is no material left on some locations. Now I think there is still a steel sleeve inside that hub. The photo ending with 42054 or 13507 seem to indicate it is there. I will talk to a machinist and see if he can help but I don't know what he do to reproduce the steel insert. He might need to machine a brand new hub. Maybe full solid hub that can accept the bronze bearings. There are no issues in ordering the bronze bearings. I am waiting on them to arrive from Scagpartonline. Once I receive the new bronze bearings I will be able to know the steel insert ID (bronze bearing OD).
Thanks so much.

Richard

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#14

StarTech

StarTech

Yuck...There might not strength left if the hub is trued up. It should be replaced and then new bushing installed But that is just my opinion..


#15

H

Honest Abe

Rich9 said:
Hello Startech,
Sorry. The hub photos I sent are showing you the hub without the bronze bearings. I removed them. The new attached photos show you the two bronze bearings next to the hub. You can tell these bronze pieces are worn out to the point there is no material left on some locations. Now I think there is still a steel sleeve inside that hub. The photo ending with 42054 or 13507 seem to indicate it is there. I will talk to a machinist and see if he can help but I don't know what he do to reproduce the steel insert. He might need to machine a brand new hub. Maybe full solid hub that can accept the bronze bearings. There are no issues in ordering the bronze bearings. I am waiting on them to arrive from Scagpartonline. Once I receive the new bronze bearings I will be able to know the steel insert ID (bronze bearing OD).
Thanks so much.

Richard
Click to expand...
according to the parts diagram, there shouldn't be any steel insert, just an upper "and" a lower bronze bearing...


#16

StarTech

StarTech

It depends on what Scag spec'd. Here I am reworking some Husqvarna pivots points that uses Teflon coated steel inserts. As I said before I haven't seen this pivot point in person so I just don't what was used and am depending on the OP to tell me what is or was present. He is in a lot better position currently to determine what was used.


#17

R

Rich9

Honest Abe said:
have you checked "PartsTree.com", it shows up for $108.99, but you'd have to call to be certain ..../
Click to expand...
IHi Hionest Abe,
I will certainly try Partstree. Likely less expensive then asking for a new hub to be made.
Thanks for the information.


#18

R

Rich9

Honest Abe said:
according to the parts diagram, there shouldn't be any steel insert, just an upper "and" a lower bronze bearing...
Click to expand...
Yes. That's what I saw in the parts list as well. It's just weird that one end of the hub appears to have a steel insert which receives the bronze bearing. Maybe it is just a chamfered inner edge. I am wrong...Okay, now I see how it is assembled. The hub mates with the arm plate. The hub's machined end male OD fits into the plate's receiving hole and that's how the two aligned together. No steel insert in that hub. Just two bronze bearings.
By the way...PartsTree had same issue with this part: Not available at manufacturer (Scag).
But the good news is: I found it on Ebay, finally. Got it on order for $100.00. Probably a surplus the seller had in his inventory. $100.00 beats any machining job plus welding time to reconstruct the arm with new hub.
I should be good for awhile with this part replaced. Lesson learned. I will remember to change those bronze bearings before they are worn out!
Thank you all.

Regards

Richard


#19

B

beatleswmc01

If you’re having issues finding parts let me know. My work has a system where we can look up part numbers and see if anyone else using the same system has one in stock (well it’s hit or miss if it’s accurate). If you want me to I can check and give you a list.


#20

B

Brucewayne

Due to price I would probably check Mcmaster Carr for the bushings.


#21

Its Me

Its Me

Rick9, I have a mower repair shop at home, retired been in the repairs business, 50 years, that is a simple fix, I am also a machinist, gosh have to be to be able to save customers with machining and welding on them is a daily job, all that needs to be done is machine the top and bottom bushing, cut a lite spiral on both pieces so that the grease with follow the spiral grove, you should be able to find a tinker machinist where you live, be a good customer if he does not have the material you buy it, oil tight bronze is an excellent choice for your application, when you get it fixed make sure you grease often, don't make the bushing out of something hard that will cause wear of the pivot pen, all else fails you can get with me and ship it I will machine it for you, Joe


#22

F

freedhardwoods

If you want to fix it yourself, JB Weld the hub.
If you can't find the proper diameter bushing, find a bigger one that has the same wall thickness and cut a small section out until it fits the hub. Keep it greased and it will last you a long time.


#23

L

lowmow

That does not look like a steel bushing,it looks like the top of the bronze bushing.What is the condition of the idler support shaft?
You can mike the shaft and hole where it is not worn and order bushing accordingly.Send me the dimensions and I will try to find a bushing for you.Heavy duty industrial bushing are far superior to the ones used on mowers,and if I know the dimensions I might be able to help you.


#24

StarTech

StarTech

freedhardwoods said:
If you want to fix it yourself, JB Weld the hub.
If you can't find the proper diameter bushing, find a bigger one that has the same wall thickness and cut a small section out until it fits the hub. Keep it greased and it will last you a long time.
Click to expand...
Personally the JB Weld products are some most hyped product out there. I have tried over and over using them per the instructions and they always have failed. This is why I use Permatek products.


#25

E

eagle86801

Rich9 said:
Hi all,
I need to replace a worn out idler arm for my 52" Scag walk behind SWZ-14KA built in 1990.
The hub portion has been damaged by letting the bronze bushing wear out very badly.
Problem is: The part needed is the 46145 but it is no longer available at Scag and they do not provide any alternate idler arm to use.
So I am sending this message to see if anyone may have this arm assembly to sell. Used or new.
Please let me know if you have this part on hand or know another source.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much.

Richard
Click to expand...
You might want to try looking on amazon for a used one and google Scag used parts


#26

E

eagle86801

Rich9 said:
Hi all,
I need to replace a worn out idler arm for my 52" Scag walk behind SWZ-14KA built in 1990.
The hub portion has been damaged by letting the bronze bushing wear out very badly.
Problem is: The part needed is the 46145 but it is no longer available at Scag and they do not provide any alternate idler arm to use.
So I am sending this message to see if anyone may have this arm assembly to sell. Used or new.
Please let me know if you have this part on hand or know another source.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much.

Richard
Click to expand...
try this site they say they have part 46145 for $96.28 " scagpartsonline.com "


#27

P

PGB1

What FreeHardWoods said about JB Weld and new bushings is how I fixed a very similar hub on a Frankenthrower (Snow thrower made of junk unit parts.) I also have done it on fan shafts for very large, industrial air moving equipment with 2" shafts.

For the thrower, I bought an oil-tite bronze bushing at a mom and pop hardware store. It was long, so I cut slices to length. I made a punch in the shop, but a block and hammer would press it in easily.

As mentioned earlier, McMaster-Carr would have the bushings, as would Grainger and Zoro. Bronzebushings Com is also a good source.

JB Weld original has worked fine for me over the years. I used it to close the infamous Pump Rub Hole on my 2000 Sierra 2500's transfer case. It's still holding after more than 10 years. (Couldn't find a new or used case. They all eventually got the hole-of-death.)

One key to success with JB Weld, per their technical support, is to never clean the part with alcohol. Even is washed off, for some reason the alcohol causes problems.


#28

P

PGB1

Perhaps LawnMowerBoneYard com has the part you seek.


#29

F

freedhardwoods

StarTech said:
Personally the JB Weld products are some most hyped product out there. I have tried over and over using them per the instructions and they always have failed. This is why I use Permatek products.
Click to expand...
I wasn't really promoting that brand. I have used a few different brands and they all have worked for me.
I just say JB Weld because everyone knows what you're talking about


#30

R

Rich9

Its Me said:
Rick9, I have a mower repair shop at home, retired been in the repairs business, 50 years, that is a simple fix, I am also a machinist, gosh have to be to be able to save customers with machining and welding on them is a daily job, all that needs to be done is machine the top and bottom bushing, cut a lite spiral on both pieces so that the grease with follow the spiral grove, you should be able to find a tinker machinist where you live, be a good customer if he does not have the material you buy it, oil tight bronze is an excellent choice for your application, when you get it fixed make sure you grease often, don't make the bushing out of something hard that will cause wear of the pivot pen, all else fails you can get with me and ship it I will machine it for you, Joe
Click to expand...
Thank you Joe for the offer to help and ideas to fix this. I am okay now. Got the whole arm for $100.00 on Ebay. This is a rare part so I am very happy that I found one.


#31

R

Rich9

eagle86801 said:
try this site they say they have part 46145 for $96.28 " scagpartsonline.com "
Click to expand...
Hi Eagle...,
The store scagpartsonline get the parts from Scag manufacturer but there information is outdated. The part is no longer available at Scag. Luckily I got the whole arm on Ebay.


#32

N

Neil P

Is this what you are looking for? Idler Arm


#33

R

Rich9

lowmow said:
That does not look like a steel bushing,it looks like the top of the bronze bushing.What is the condition of the idler support shaft?
You can mike the shaft and hole where it is not worn and order bushing accordingly.Send me the dimensions and I will try to find a bushing for you.Heavy duty industrial bushing are far superior to the ones used on mowers,and if I know the dimensions I might be able to help you.
Click to expand...
Hi lowmow,
Good point about the receiving idler shaft. Yes it is also worn out and I knew it upfront. I have a new one on order. This one is still available at Scag. I am good now. Everything I need is already received or in transit. I did not need to machine or customize anything but I will keep your offer in mind. This mower is 34 year old. I will keep it until the engine or the hydraulics gets beyond repair.
Thank you much.
Richard


#34

G

groverspe

Rich9 said:
Hi all,
I need to replace a worn out idler arm for my 52" Scag walk behind SWZ-14KA built in 1990.
The hub portion has been damaged by letting the bronze bushing wear out very badly.
Problem is: The part needed is the 46145 but it is no longer available at Scag and they do not provide any alternate idler arm to use.
So I am sending this message to see if anyone may have this arm assembly to sell. Used or new.
Please let me know if you have this part on hand or know another source.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much.

Richard
Click to expand...
My distributor shows 6 in stock.


#35

D

Dlwusmc

Rich9 said:
Hi all,
I need to replace a worn out idler arm for my 52" Scag walk behind SWZ-14KA built in 1990.
The hub portion has been damaged by letting the bronze bushing wear out very badly.
Problem is: The part needed is the 46145 but it is no longer available at Scag and they do not provide any alternate idler arm to use.
So I am sending this message to see if anyone may have this arm assembly to sell. Used or new.
Please let me know if you have this part on hand or know another source.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much.

Richard
Click to expand...
Jacks small engine has it on the website.
Rich9 said:
Hi all,
I need to replace a worn out idler arm for my 52" Scag walk behind SWZ-14KA built in 1990.
The hub portion has been damaged by letting the bronze bushing wear out very badly.
Problem is: The part needed is the 46145 but it is no longer available at Scag and they do not provide any alternate idler arm to use.
So I am sending this message to see if anyone may have this arm assembly to sell. Used or new.
Please let me know if you have this part on hand or know another source.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much.

Richard
Click to expand...
Jacks small engines website says they have it.


#36

Z

Zue

Rich9 said:
Hi all,
I need to replace a worn out idler arm for my 52" Scag walk behind SWZ-14KA built in 1990.
The hub portion has been damaged by letting the bronze bushing wear out very badly.
Problem is: The part needed is the 46145 but it is no longer available at Scag and they do not provide any alternate idler arm to use.
So I am sending this message to see if anyone may have this arm assembly to sell. Used or new.
Please let me know if you have this part on hand or know another source.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much.

Richard
Click to expand...
Take what’s left to a custom fabricator or weld shop. They can craft you what you need.


#37

R

Rich9

Neil P said:
Is this what you are looking for? Idler Arm
Click to expand...
Thanks. Ihave found a replacement from Ebay. The part you show is the correct part but this store like many other stores don't realize that this parts iis not available from Sacg anymore.


#38

R

Rich9

Dlwusmc said:
Jacks small engine has it on the website.

Jacks small engines website says they have it.
Click to expand...
I got the arm from Ebay. Just not sure about this part availability from the manufacturer.. I was told it is discontinued.
Anyway it is wise to ask the store you deal with before you place an order.


#39

R

Rich9

groverspe said:
My distributor shows 6 in stock.
Click to expand...
Interesting. Please let me know the name of the distributor for future ref.
I have a replacement now from Ebay.
Thanks


#40

homer888

homer888

I retired from Scag,Try calling 920-387-3150. Metal craft of Mayville where they are made.


#41

StarTech

StarTech

Now that you a replacement part you have time the work on straightening the old part if you wish to take the time and effort.

A lot pf things are repairable if only someone took the time and was willing to learn something new. But it seems a lot of our techs have just got on the lazy side of things.

Just had a JD to a customer that his didn't have an oil pump and to ignore the flashing oil pressure light. All he had to do was to either realize an with an oil filter has an oil pump or looked up the engine's IPL. But I don't mind as I now have a new customer.


#42

T

tschwarting

Rich9 said:
Hi all,
I need to replace a worn out idler arm for my 52" Scag walk behind SWZ-14KA built in 1990.
The hub portion has been damaged by letting the bronze bushing wear out very badly.
Problem is: The part needed is the 46145 but it is no longer available at Scag and they do not provide any alternate idler arm to use.
So I am sending this message to see if anyone may have this arm assembly to sell. Used or new.
Please let me know if you have this part on hand or know another source.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much.

Richard
Click to expand...
There is a place here in New York called newburgh power equipment and they've got a huge building FULL of parts. Their contact information is: phone # is 845 564 6960. Or 800 834 6960 Email is http://www.newburghpower.com
I'd be highly surprised if they couldn't help you out.
Good luck!


#43

J

jviews12

Easy to machine a bushing if you have a lathe. I do not have one, so cannot volunteer.


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