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I’ve got a John Deere GX345 removed a Kawasaki 611FV an installed a Kawasaki 590FV in its place hooked up all the connections on the 590 an the motor will turn over but no spark from the coils have fire on both sides of the coils have replaced the delay timing module an the ECM but still no spark from the coils the 590 came off a Craftsman garden tractor an was running great installed the motor on the GX345 both of the motors are liquid cooling motors had to change the wiring harness on the 590 because it didn’t have enough connections like the 611 anyone got any idea what could have caused it to not fire thru coils to spark plugs all ideas appreciated

First there is no 611FV or 590FV. The GX345 came with FD611V-AS02, or BS02 engines. So I assuming you posted the wrong model numbers.

Both FD611V and FD590V requires 12vdc to the coils.

The 345 uses a time delay module in the ignition wiring.

I figure someone might have the mower side wiring diagram. Tnx posting it Hammer.

The OP has apparently already change the time delay module.

I haven't had a GX series in the shop so I don't have its IPL nor I have spent the $20-$200 for a copy of the SM yet. Kinda rough time of the year to spend extra as I just sent out the door over $1000 in POs yesterday and I am still awaiting the payment on the $1200 Bad Boy repair. Just had to install a new starter as the old one rusted solid.

Deere used the 590 in the older 345 tractors. The later 345's had the 611 engine. Then all the GX345's had the 611 engine. I am comparing part numbers on the engine electrical system between the engines on the 345s, and they use all the same parts (pulse coils, ignitor module(black box), ignition coils, flywheel, stator) except the part of the harness that connects to the tractor main harness. The earlier 345 with the 590 doesn't appear to use the time delay module according to the wiring schematic, so that appears to have been added into the system when they changed to the 611 engine, but if you put the complete 611 system on a 590, in theory, it should all work. Your GX345 engine harness is the same part number used on the later 345's, so it should just plug in and work. Something obviously changed when you swapped the engine harnesses. If I read your description correct, you have power to the coils. If true, then the pulse coils either aren't picking up the signal from the flywheel magnet, or there is a wiring mixup going to the ignitor module (which I think you're calling the ECU). Both engines use the same ignitor module and time delay module, so we know there is no conflict there. It's possible the different harness is grounding out something. There is also a possibility that there is an issue on your tractor that you haven't found or didn't know about. I always suspect the circuit board beside the battery because they corrode on the backside and do weird, intermittent stuff as they age. Might want to check that and the 2 fuses on that board as well. Let me know if you still can't get it to fire, and I will upload some wiring diagrams for you. Please give me your GX345 serial number if you need the diagram. Thanks, and good luck!

I have a gx345 in the shop right now that the guy is supposed to pick up today. The guy found it on the side of the road with a free sign on it. Had some kind of fire that burned up a bunch of wires at the time delay module. I straightened all that out and did annual maint for $400. Other than a busted up hood it runs great with 600 hours on it. Guy got a real deal.

Hammermechanicman said:

I have a gx345 in the shop right now that the guy is supposed to pick up today. The guy found it on the side of the road with a free sign on it. Had some kind of fire that burned up a bunch of wires at the time delay module. I straightened all that out and did annual maint for $400. Other than a busted up hood it runs great with 600 hours on it. Guy got a real deal.

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Now tell me how in the world did that indestructible hood got broken. Those plastic hoods never survive long.

Yeah. I get folks with a green machines all the time wanting to know if i can repair seats and hoods. I thought about getting one of the hot staple tools and work on hoods but the time involved and then guarantee the fix made it a no go.

Hammermechanicman said:

Yeah. I get folks with a green machines all the time wanting to know if i can repair seats and hoods. I thought about getting one of the hot staple tools and work on hoods but the time involved and then guarantee the fix made it a no go.

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The top for this model is only about $120. (I have a GT225, and it's the same part) Just grab the hood at the side louvers instead of the top middle, and it will never break! Also remove the 2 black plastic latches on the pedestal so the hood lifts easily. Just remember to not haul your tractor backwards on a trailer, or else it's goodbye hood! My hood is all original from 2002. No cracks. Kinda hard to put any repair labor into it and keep the repair price down enough versus just buying a new top. If the bottom section is broken, that's a different story...

That is cheap compared to $600+ it was a SST16 hood. It failed due UV damage. Plastic was just rotten. The areas I bonded five years ago were still intact just all new breaks and the customer didn't have the pieces for me to work with.

Even $120 is jolt to some owners.

And yes you have to baby these JD hoods.

I don't have a Deere. My customers do. I tell them to not pull from the center but do it from both sides. Lots of machines roll in with duck tape on the seat and hood.

StarTech said:

That is cheap compared to $600+ it was a SST16 hood. It failed due UV damage. Plastic was just rotten. The areas I bonded five years ago were still intact just all new breaks and the customer didn't have the pieces for me to work with.

Even $120 is jolt to some owners.

And yes you have to baby these JD hoods.

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UV damage is a real killer. I'm just amazed there is a Spin Steer out there still running! Those transmissions and steering diaphragms were a different animal all their own!

Hammermechanicman said:

Yeah. I get folks with a green machines all the time wanting to know if i can repair seats and hoods. I thought about getting one of the hot staple tools and work on hoods but the time involved and then guarantee the fix made it a no go.

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I live on a farm and even the 64 series Tractors have all Plastic hoods. You think mower/compact tractors get beat around, you can imagine the abuse a tractor gets. Field work can be a bit rough too.

Will1988 said:

UV damage is a real killer. I'm just amazed there is a Spin Steer out there still running! Those transmissions and steering diaphragms were a different animal all their own!

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I have 2 SST 18s. Still running and in excellent operating condition. One has a power flow bagger. I would like to find another good used or new blower for it.

StarTech said:

That is cheap compared to $600+ it was a SST16 hood. It failed due UV damage. Plastic was just rotten. The areas I bonded five years ago were still intact just all new breaks and the customer didn't have the pieces for me to work with.

Even $120 is jolt to some owners.

And yes you have to baby these JD hoods.

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Those hoods are the Dodge Ram 2nd generation dashes of lawn mowers

Had a customer joke that the overpriced JD maintenance kits should come with a hood.

Hammermechanicman said:

Had a customer joke that the overpriced JD maintenance kits should come with a hood.

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There should at least be gold flakes in them to melt down and sell to recover some money! But, in all seriousness, price the maintenance parts individually through Deere, and you will find most kits are closely priced with a few exceptions. I work at a dealership and have done the research

Don't know how JD operates in the USA but down here they keep a massive inventory of other manufacturers parts.
So during the past 3 years when B & S parts are unobtainable all I had to do was find he J D part number for the B & S parts and put an order in .
And funny enough , quite a few times the parts from J D were cheaper than the same part ( if & when B & S Australia bother to get some ) from B & S .

bertsmobile1 said:

Don't know how JD operates in the USA but down here they keep a massive inventory of other manufacturers parts.
So during the past 3 years when B & S parts are unobtainable all I had to do was find he J D part number for the B & S parts and put an order in .
And funny enough , quite a few times the parts from J D were cheaper than the same part ( if & when B & S Australia bother to get some ) from B & S .

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Some dealers do have access to B&S, Kawasaki, Kohler, etc OEM parts, but the dealer I work for doesn't do that for some reason. The previous dealer I worked for did deal with engine OEM's, and you are correct, you really have to price shop both ways.

Will1988 said:

Some dealers do have access to B&S, Kawasaki, Kohler, etc OEM parts, but the dealer I work for doesn't do that for some reason. The previous dealer I worked for did deal with engine OEM's, and you are correct, you really have to price shop both ways.

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Correct. That why I shop around on the parts needed. Every region is different too. It really depends who is servicing the area well. Here my local JD dealer tries to eat me alive on pricing at times which is why I use an out of state dealer that gives me a 10% discount.

Not a dealer thing as the local dealers usually have to order the parts from JD's main warehouse in Melbourne
The one warehouse is used for all the green & yellow stuff but the mower section is sort of in a tiny corner of the yard.

Will1988 said:

There should at least be gold flakes in them to melt down and sell to recover some money! But, in all seriousness, price the maintenance parts individually through Deere, and you will find most kits are closely priced with a few exceptions. I work at a dealership and have done the research

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You are correct the pieces individually are about the same as the kits but the issue is the JD markup vs what i can get the same part for. An example is the M152049 air filter for $47.63 from JD dealer or the exact same Kawasaki air filter i can source for $22.74. Or $9.15 for JD AM107423 oil filter vs $5.33 for the exact same filter. The 2 local JD dealers are never hurting for service business and i have no issue with the dealers and those customers. In my shop i source the same parts or same quality parts for a lower price. I know a JD dealership has a huge amount of overhead as compared to my little one man shop and the $100/hr labor rate and parts markup is justified. I just provide a different avenue of service. I work on a lot of stuff the dealers don't want to. I do find it funny when people buy a JD kit and bring it with the mower and think they are saving money.

Hammermechanicman said:

You are correct the pieces individually are about the same as the kits but the issue is the JD markup vs what i can get the same part for. An example is the M152049 air filter for $47.63 from JD dealer or the exact same Kawasaki air filter i can source for $22.74. Or $9.15 for JD AM107423 oil filter vs $5.33 for the exact same filter. The 2 local JD dealers are never hurting for service business and i have no issue with the dealers and those customers. In my shop i source the same parts or same quality parts for a lower price. I know a JD dealership has a huge amount of overhead as compared to my little one man shop and the $100/hr labor rate and parts markup is justified. I just provide a different avenue of service. I work on a lot of stuff the dealers don't want to. I do find it funny when people buy a JD kit and bring it with the mower and think they are saving money.

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You have to be careful with some of those Kawasaki air filters. There are two different styles that look the same. The difference is in the density depending on whether you have an internally or externally vented carburetor on some models. I've put the wrong one on by accident before. Why Kawasaki didn't just change the design a bit, I don't know!