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Please help me find parts for my AS11!! I recently purchased a GX1320 John Deere 48" walk behind with a 14 HP FC420V-AS11 engine. I got a great deal on it because it has an intermittent spark. I had it running at the sellers house for about 2 minutes, but can't get it going since. The spark only happens once in a while and is very faint. I bought a shop manual and checked every wire on it...all good. I have changed the ignitor/module...no good. I am trying to find a coil without paying John Deere prices.

"K&T Parts House Lawn Mower Parts and Chain Saw & Trimmer Parts" Download your manual at bottom left of screen & see page 37 for testing ignition coil.

Jacks Small Engines Search

Actually I own a Tech manual and I have tested it and it is barely out of specs. I am not convinced it is shot but where can I BUY one for this illusive engine??? The FC420V-AS11 is not in any parts look up on any site.

MowDanMan said:

Actually I own a Tech manual and I have tested it and it is barely out of specs. I am not convinced it is shot but where can I BUY one for this illusive engine??? The FC420V-AS11 is not in any parts look up on any site.

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211212087 Kawasaki 21121-2087 COIL-IGNITION Kawasaki parts item details

Same engine on my mower, I fixed a no spark problem with a $35 new coil from eBay.

Perhaps I am to tight to fix this motor. I bought a new Ignitor/module from John Deere (for $85) brought it home and it ohmed out exactly like my old one. I took it back...bought a new "John Deere" coil (for $95) it ohmed out exactly like my old coil. I will be returning it as well. I pulled the flywheel just to clean and physically inspect the magneto. Still only a very faint spark for a couple of cranks and then nothing.

The size and quality of the spark depends upon the strength & quality of the magnets , the speed that they pass the ignition coil and the state of the coil / module itself.

First test it without a plug in the hole and see if you get a good spark.
Some times problems like this are due to too low a cranking speed and have nothing at all to do with the coil / module.
Unless there is an internal fracture in a coil winding or the connections between the module & windings these units are generally a work - won't work jobbie.
Fractured wires / bad joints generally show up as a strong spark when cold and a break down at working temperatures.

MowDanMan said:

Perhaps I am to tight to fix this motor. I bought a new Ignitor/module from John Deere (for $85) brought it home and it ohmed out exactly like my old one. I took it back...bought a new "John Deere" coil (for $95) it ohmed out exactly like my old coil. I will be returning it as well. I pulled the flywheel just to clean and physically inspect the magneto. Still only a very faint spark for a couple of cranks and then nothing.

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Boy talk about lucky you are, any dealer or parts store that are in my part of the country will NOT take back electrical parts. Now you did test the coil hot as well as cold didn't you?

I could not test it hot. I figure if it ohms out properly cold it should give me a decent spark. Of course, since I can't get it to run, there is no way to test it hot.

I have been testing with the plug out of the hole. I have a nice jumper wire to provide a ground for the spark plug.

MowDanMan said:

I could not test it hot. I figure if it ohms out properly cold it should give me a decent spark. Of course, since I can't get it to run, there is no way to test it hot.

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That is the reason you should have your coil tested at a shop that has the equipment to heat a coil to test it. Also you should always test for spark when the spark plug is under compression. Just because a spark plug sparks on the side of the block doesn't mean it will spark under compression.

When something comes into my shop that doesn't start I do two very simple things to test for spark. It take two different very cheap testers. The first one is a test with the spark in the engine. The tester is a jumper with a light in it that go's from the secondary coil wire to the spark plug, if this lights when you turn the engine over you know the plug is good. The next test I do is disconnect the plug wire from the plug. This tester is to see how far will the spark jump which should be a 3/4 in. If your engine passes these test you haven't got a electrical problem.

reynoldston said:

When something comes into my shop that doesn't start I do two very simple things to test for spark. It take two different very cheap testers. The first one is a test with the spark in the engine. The tester is a jumper with a light in it that go's from the secondary coil wire to the spark plug, if this lights when you turn the engine over you know the plug is good. The next test I do is disconnect the plug wire from the plug. This tester is to see how far will the spark jump which should be a 3/4 in. If your engine passes these test you haven't got a electrical problem.

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Double ditto. although I like to pop in a known good plug because the in line testers will also fire if the spark is tracking down the inside of plug and not jumping the gap

bertsmobile1 said:

Double ditto. although I like to pop in a known good plug because the in line testers will also fire if the spark is tracking down the inside of plug and not jumping the gap

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Yes a new spark plug is very cheap insurance I will change it along with a fuel filter on most non start jobs.