No power/boggs down

[ILENGINE]

Sounds like you are describing the voltage regulator wires. the module I am talking about is under the blower housing mounted on top of the cylinder and has the spark plug wire attached to it. there should be a single wire that goes to each of the two ignition modules. Unplug the wire and see if you have spark.

 

[Todd J]

Gotcha. Will check it tomorrow morning.
Thanks

 

[Todd J]

NO SPARK.... Must be a bad module, correct? I'll order a new one.
And the plot thickens... There is a black wire running from the blade engage switch to this plug wire. The wire is cut off on the end and it wrapped 6-8 times around plug wire and held with a zip tie??? Is this needed and if so where does it go? I don't see the other end where it would attach and why multiple wraps held by zip tie? Is this maybe for another engine that would/could be installed and that wire would then be needed?
I've had it worked on in the past while under warranty and it appears nothing was done with this wire so maybe it's not needed in my application.
Thanks

 

[ILENGINE]

Kill wire disconnected and cranking with a known good plug with no fire means bad module in most cases. When you remove the module make sure the mounting surface on the engine and module are clean and not covered in rust because that can cause issues some times.

I would say if that wire is not connected I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[bertsmobile1]

The wire from the PTO switch to the module will be a safety switch.
Some 1/2 wit cut it off in order to prove evolution can go two ways and we can de-evolve back to apes.

 

[Todd J]

So the saga continues. I changed the ignition module and I now have spark to that plug. Put on new fuel lines, replaced a hose with hole in it off of air cleaner housing and put everything back together. It fired right up...off to cut grass. Within 5 minutes of cutting I could sense it's still not right. It still wants to and does blog down with blades engaged cutting at any speed. It will cut at 1/4 to 1/2 speed but you can tell it's having problems. At full speed the blades almost stop and mower has trouble moving forward. Dis-engage blades and it runs fine at full speed. You can even hear a difference in engine sound. Sounds normal. With deck up and blades engaged it still blogs down (not cutting grass but blades spinning). It also started back firing and popping after about 20 minutes while blades engaged. No blade spinning no back fire. The only other thing is I have to hold back on left handle to keep it straight. Pushing them both forward causes it turn go right slightly. I just need to adjust handles to correct but if I can't use it what's the point?

Thanks for all your help. I'm to the point of draining the oil, run it till it locks up and replace engine. At least then I'll know what's wrong.

 

[Todd J]

Any ideas?????? Anybody?????

 

[Luffydog]

Check the evap lines make they are not bent to sharp. If that didn't do it would say replace the carb. Have you ran it until it starts and loosen the cap.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Running on one cylinder.
Some of the V twins have a diode in the kill wire that goes from one coil to the other one.
This is to stop the coils interfearing with each other.
When this diode goes bad you get very erratic firing from one cylinder.
Pull both of the wires off & see if it goes away.

 

[Todd J]

I'm still fighting this mower and it's winning. I have fire to both cylinders. When it starts now it is revved up. It slows down when throttle is pulled back but not like it should. At cutting speed is has to be over 3600 rpm from the way it sounds and it is putting out black smoke on the cylinder to the left standing at back of mower. Running rich for sure.

Now what??? I know it can be repaired just not sure what is next. Carb? Adjust valves? Blow a hole in the side of it with a .357 Magnum?

Thanks for your help