No longer starts on first pull

[Rivets]

Your mower has a Tecumseh model TVS120-66018C. Probably has a carb number 632742, which uses the kit I posted. Here is a manual which might help you out or if you need more instructions ask. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Te...P-4-CYCLE-L-HEAD-FLAT-HEAD-ENGINES-692509.pdf
Fish has you going in another route, but I’ll bet you will end up rebuilding the carb in the end. You can see by his signature he is much smarter than I am. Just look at the certifications he has, I can’t top that.

 

[Bean438]

Rivets can I ask how you found my engine from the numbers I gave you?

I will get the rebuild kit. Do you think I should replace the o rings in the emulsion tube? Do the numbers for the o rings match for my engine?

 

[Boobala]

From RIVETS .. You can see by his signature he is much smarter than I am. Just look at the certifications he has, I can’t top that.

All I can say is ... .. :laughing:..:laughing:

 

[Rivets]

If you google “cross reference Craftsman to Tecumseh “ you can get a chart to identify the engine. I wouldn’t worry about the o-rings. Here are detailed instructions on how I rebuild carbs.

[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Needle and seat replacement.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. If it does, replace. If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot][FONT=&quot]PS: On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. Under this cover will be an idle jet. Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.[/FONT][/FONT]

 

[Bean438]

Thanks for the info!
I actually have the Tecumseh carb tool. I’ll use that for the procedure.

As for the emulsion tube, the mower is about 20 years old. Other than oil changes and a quick carb clean, and new air filters everything is original. I just figured if I have it all part I would just replace the tube and o rings.

Bad idea? Not needed?

 

[Rivets]

Can’t really remember the last time I replaced the O-rings or tube. If you feel it might help, go ahead, but make sure they get up in square and tight. The tube is the main jet.

 

[Bean438]

Got my carb kit today. I went with 632760b which has the orings, Welch plugs, etc. gonna do the whole thing, if not just for the learning.

You mention ultrasonic cleaning. I’m gonna buy a small cleaner. After the disassembly can I submerge the carb with the primer bulb still attached? I just replaced it last year and don’t want to replace it.

Just don’t want to damage anything via ultrasonic.

For your info, the parts guy said,the same thing you did (float seat swelling) as the most likely culprit.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Well that is because the seat swelling is the most common cause of those carbs flooding.

Ultra sound will not damage the primer unless it is perished.
What will make a difference is the solution you use,
A gentle solution like dishwasher detergent should be fine
Liquid laundry detergent works better but you need to rinse with a slightly acid solution ( a little bit of vinegar ) to prevent staining.
It must be done cold, because hot water will cause the primer to come loose and then you have to dry it properly, good luck on that one.

 

[Rivets]

Never had a problem putting a carb with a primer in the cleaner, just make sure the temp is medium. I like to put all metal parts in, bowl, jets, bowl jet, even mounting bolts. I use simple green as my cleaning agent.

 

[Bean438]

I’ll do a bit more research into ultrasonic cleaning. Dont really know much about it.

I’ll try some dish soap and simple green.

Are we talking straight simple green, or what kind of dilution?