Look for a TINY crack in the plastic fuel extension tube that goes from carb into tank. A magnifying glass and good light would help.
Could be a warped carb flange AT the engine block mount. Remove carb. Get a 12 x 20 sheet of plate glass - cheap at a glass shop. Take 220 wet/dry paper and look for uneven areas on that flange face. Might have to get some 120 or rougher to true her up. Then work her down finer to a 400-600 grit shine.
I use my vertical garage door glass and some sand paper. Let the paper do ALL of the work. Just hold the flange flat as possible and work it SLOWLY. Rotate the carb around while doing this step. Hold the carb with your finger tips only while sanding. Don't need a ton of pressure at all..........
Once you get that flange flat and true, GENTLY SNUG the two nuts to mount the carb. Use a fresh thick OEM Briggs gasket. If I recall the Briggs gaskets are a full min 1/8" or 1/4" thick. The replacement Chinese carbs come with half thickness gaskets, beware. I would guess at 5 ft lbs of torque is all you need on the nuts. Check your engine manual for proper torque spec. Tighten with your weak hand using OPEN fingers on the wrench. Don't grip down on the wrench. Carb isn't going to fall off. It's not a wheel lug nut.
That engine should start and run fairly easily. That carb also has a welch plug on the side facing you. Need to remove it and rod out the 3 or 4 holes behind the plug. Reinstall the plug with super glue to seal it. Gas will not eat super glue.
Be aware if you put another carb on it. Air filter housings are non existent for some of those. Check around for parts before ordering anything to complete the job.
Also as one poster stated, try a double dose of seafoam. Run it till the carb is full of SF. Let it soak for several days/week/s.
Could be a warped carb flange AT the engine block mount. Remove carb. Get a 12 x 20 sheet of plate glass - cheap at a glass shop. Take 220 wet/dry paper and look for uneven areas on that flange face. Might have to get some 120 or rougher to true her up. Then work her down finer to a 400-600 grit shine.
I use my vertical garage door glass and some sand paper. Let the paper do ALL of the work. Just hold the flange flat as possible and work it SLOWLY. Rotate the carb around while doing this step. Hold the carb with your finger tips only while sanding. Don't need a ton of pressure at all..........
Once you get that flange flat and true, GENTLY SNUG the two nuts to mount the carb. Use a fresh thick OEM Briggs gasket. If I recall the Briggs gaskets are a full min 1/8" or 1/4" thick. The replacement Chinese carbs come with half thickness gaskets, beware. I would guess at 5 ft lbs of torque is all you need on the nuts. Check your engine manual for proper torque spec. Tighten with your weak hand using OPEN fingers on the wrench. Don't grip down on the wrench. Carb isn't going to fall off. It's not a wheel lug nut.
That engine should start and run fairly easily. That carb also has a welch plug on the side facing you. Need to remove it and rod out the 3 or 4 holes behind the plug. Reinstall the plug with super glue to seal it. Gas will not eat super glue.
Be aware if you put another carb on it. Air filter housings are non existent for some of those. Check around for parts before ordering anything to complete the job.
Also as one poster stated, try a double dose of seafoam. Run it till the carb is full of SF. Let it soak for several days/week/s.
