No crank,gifted someone else's mightmare

[howdydoody]

Model 17af2acp001
Serial 1d088g20302
Jumper cables to bat- starter+ = start and runs. Replaced solenoid after it tested bad with used one I had after it passed bench test(auditable click with continuity across big post). Both are 4 wire. Will not click after installation this starter doesn't engage. First small tab,orange wire sends 7.5 volts with key in start position. Is this enough? Second small tab,green wire has ground. Did notice when key is in start position the PTO/blade light illuminates. That's not correct is it?
I might add,the gifter originally started repair of PTO wouldn't engage,he went on to replace wiring harness(I'm praying with the correct one)
Thanks in advance for any comments from anyone who takes time to share there time and knowledge

 

[ILENGINE]

7.5 not enough. should be closer to 12.5 or less than 1 volt from battery voltage. the light coming on in most cases is an indication that either the brake isn't pushed down, or the deck is engaged, so that could be part of the issues also.

Could also be a bad connection at a safety switch like the brake interlock or pto switch. So bad switch or corroded terminal will cause your low voltage at the solenoid trigger wire connection

 

[StarTech]

First this ZTR is a Yard-man (50") 22 HP model which should have the same wiring as the Cub Cadet RZT-50 so to be on the same page. If PTO is coming on the safety system will prevent the starter activation. On Cub Cadets I have seen the steering arm switches burn their internal contacts leading to high electrical resistance. As IL said there needs to be full battery voltage across the solenoid the small terminals when in the keyswitch is in the start position.

This is the Cub Cadet wiring schematic which should help.

 

[howdydoody]

7.5 not enough. should be closer to 12.5 or less than 1 volt from battery voltage. the light coming on in most cases is an indication that either the brake isn't pushed down, or the deck is engaged, so that could be part of the issues also.

The parking brake is on however haven't tested brake switch,brake light on in run but goes off in start,seems to be working as should(I have little to no experience on safety switches or electrical systems. When you said deck engaged are you referring to PTO switch? It is in off position. The deck was removed from unit when I got it and wires going to PTO have been cut and a section of wires going to PTO clutch removed . Could the deck being removed be causing my issue?

First this ZTR is a Yard-man (50") 22 HP model which should have the same wiring as the Cub Cadet RZT-50 so to be on the same page. If PTO is coming on the safety system will prevent the starter activation. On Cub Cadets I have seen the steering arm switches burn their internal contacts leading to high electrical resistance. As IL said there needs to be full battery voltage across the solenoid the small terminals when in the keyswitch is in the start position.

This is the Cub Cadet wiring schematic which should help.
View attachment 50999

First this ZTR is a Yard-man (50") 22 HP model which should have the same wiring as the Cub Cadet RZT-50 so to be on the same page. If PTO is coming on the safety system will prevent the starter activation. On Cub Cadets I have seen the steering arm switches burn their internal contacts leading to high electrical resistance. As IL said there needs to be full battery voltage across the solenoid the small terminals when in the keyswitch is in the start position.

This is the Cub Cadet wiring schematic which should help.
View attachment 50999

I looked back at model no. after seeing the yard man in your post,I have made a mistake on the model number I posted
17af2acp011 is the correct model number
Should come back as troybuilt(by mtd) rzt 50" mustang w 22hp Kohler courage sv715s. I apologize for such a stupid mistake. I think there pretty much the same. Going over connections using the cadet wiring diagram I found the PTO switch wire connector has a wire in it with no spade on switch. I asked previous owner,he said first thing he replaced was pto switch,he got the replacement off a cub cadet tractor style mower. Im thinking I need to look for the proper switch?

 

[ILENGINE]

The parking brake is on however haven't tested brake switch,brake light on in run but goes off in start,seems to be working as should(I have little to no experience on safety switches or electrical systems. When you said deck engaged are you referring to PTO switch? It is in off position. The deck was removed from unit when I got it and wires going to PTO have been cut and a section of wires going to PTO clutch removed . Could the deck being removed be causing my issue?

The pto switch is part of the starting circuit. so there could be an issue there with the wiring. Also was just thinking the fact that the brake switch goes out in the start position could be a side effect from the voltage drop. Are you sure that you have a good battery, and not one that is showing 12 volts but drops considerable under load.

 

[StarTech]

Double check that PTO connector is plugged in correctly some can be install backwards as not all keying.

As for the brake going as IL said check a bad battery or connection. Do forget to check grounding.

 

[howdydoody]

The pto switch is part of the starting circuit. so there could be an issue there with the wiring. Also was just thinking the fact that the brake switch goes out in the start position could be a side effect from the voltage drop. Are you sure that you have a good battery, and not one that is showing 12 volts but drops considerable under load.

Will check soon as I find my tester

 

[howdydoody]

Will check soon as I find my tester

[/QUOTE pulled PTO switch,Delta 6024, all Delta 6024's I can find online are 8 terminal,this one is a 7 terminal(none broke off). Connector is as follows 1r,2y,3o+ow,4bu,5yw,6empty,7+8empty,
obl. Switch as follows one side is labeled com a, com b, com c. Other side is labeled nc,nc,nc. On first side a,b,c all have spades for connector. In middle d no spade,e+f have spades.g+I have spades,h doesn't. It only plugs in one way,on the switch g has a spade(on the NC side of switch) but connector 7(which corresponds to g) has no wire there. Had previously noted switch came off a cub cadet tractor style,could this be my problem or do I need to move on to brake switch and or battery? While waiting on reply(s) headed to Walmart to get battery,cause no sir I can not say my battery just because it shows 12.6 v that it's not failing under load,have only multimeter to check it with. I do know when I stuck a wire from + battery to signal post on solenoid it energized but the motor barely tried to turn. Can't go wrong with new battery especially knowing I have another mower with a bad battery. Thanks again for all replies,if it at all appears I'm not using yawls advise,I'm trying. Keep in mind your trying to help a true Kentucky hillbilly that by the grace of God graduated high school.

 

[howdydoody]

Thanks to all
I'm ready to start trying to put wires back to PTO clutch and reassemble the deck.
A 8 pole PTO switch put my solenoid to trying to start engine with key,a different battery made starter spin engine,she fires as soon as she starts turning.
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