Newbie here with a lawn mower problem

[kaplang]

Hello all,

I'm new to this forum and need some help with a current project. Hopefully I can get some answers and i will definitely help others when I can

Honda TB130XP mower won't start and has no spark. It's not the plug so i'm starting with the coil. What i would like to know is what is the testing procedure for the coil? I know it is Ohm readings between some points on the coll but i don't know what the test points are and what Ohm readings I should get?. I have a Fluke VOM and know how to use it. Any help here will be greatly appreciate!

Thanks,

George
West Cost shut in during the pendemic

 

[tom3]

Only two components in the ignition, plug and coil. Good plug and no spark, bad coil. Might check the flywheel magnets for strength but that's probably not the problem. Not sure what motor you have but parts are too cheap to worry about it, such as this:

Carburetor Ignition Coil Spark Plug Air Filter Gas Kit for Honda Gx160 Gx200 for sale online | eBay

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[kaplang]

Only two components in the ignition, plug and coil. Good plug and no spark, bad coil. Might check the flywheel magnets for strength but that's probably not the problem. Not sure what motor you have but parts are too cheap to worry about it, such as this:

Carburetor Ignition Coil Spark Plug Air Filter Gas Kit for Honda Gx160 Gx200 for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Carburetor Ignition Coil Spark Plug Air Filter Gas Kit for Honda Gx160 Gx200 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

No points or condenser?

 

[dougand3]

You can test 1* and 2* resistance with an ohmmeter but even if in specs, coil can still be bad. Check youtube for how-to.
If I ground the plug, have a buddy pull rope and I don't get spark...I may test FW magnets (but never seen bad ones). Normally, just get another coil.

 

[kaplang]

You can test 1* and 2* resistance with an ohmmeter but even if in specs, coil can still be bad. Check youtube for how-to.
If I ground the plug, have a buddy pull rope and I don't get spark...I may test FW magnets (but never seen bad ones). Normally, just get another coil.

With the coil wires disconnected I’m getting continuity from the push on spade connector to ground and that doesn’t seem right to me. The push on spade connector connects the wire that goes to the micro switch. I don’t think that spade connector should be going to ground by default. Could be an internal short.

 

[kaplang]

You can test 1* and 2* resistance with an ohmmeter but even if in specs, coil can still be bad. Check youtube for how-to.
If I ground the plug, have a buddy pull rope and I don't get spark...I may test FW magnets (but never seen bad ones). Normally, just get another coil.

No points or condenser in the ignition system?
Do you know?

 

[dougand3]

Points and condenser haven't been in mowers for 30 - 40, maybe 50 years. It's all solid state electronic module now.

 

[ILENGINE]

With the coil wires disconnected I’m getting continuity from the push on spade connector to ground and that doesn’t seem right to me. The push on spade connector connects the wire that goes to the micro switch. I don’t think that spade connector should be going to ground by default. Could be an internal short.

I would have to do some digging but some of the honda ignition system are ground to run.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Potted inside the coil is a micro chip that replaces the points & condenser
This measures the rising voltage ( or falling as the case may be ) voltage being induced in the coil.
When it gets to a predetermined voltage the chip closes a circuit to allow spark to be generated by the collapsing field.
Almost no one reveales the values of their chip so testing the primary is an exercise in futility unless the service manual gives you a value .
Even then it is still a waste of time because the coil, now called a module because they have added a 20¢ chip and $ 40 to the simple coil , is a non servicable item.
IT will either work or won't work.
The only test worth doing is removing the kill wire and checking for a spark.
If and onmly if the module has a replacable HT lead & cap then you can ohm that and replaces if bad, but neve seen one that was bad unless it was snashed from the owner mowing like a drunken sailor.

 

[kaplang]

Potted inside the coil is a micro chip that replaces the points & condenser
This measures the rising voltage ( or falling as the case may be ) voltage being induced in the coil.
When it gets to a predetermined voltage the chip closes a circuit to allow spark to be generated by the collapsing field.
Almost no one reveales the values of their chip so testing the primary is an exercise in futility unless the service manual gives you a value .
Even then it is still a waste of time because the coil, now called a module because they have added a 20¢ chip and $ 40 to the simple coil , is a non servicable item.
IT will either work or won't work.
The only test worth doing is removing the kill wire and checking for a spark.
If and onmly if the module has a replacable HT lead & cap then you can ohm that and replaces if bad, but neve seen one that was bad unless it was snashed from the owner mowing like a drunken sailor.

Thank you so much for your explanation and everyone else that replied.
It all really helped me. Now that I know It is apparent that the coil is bad since It is the only part other then the flywheel magnets that will generate voltage and current to the spark plug. Disconnecting the wire from the kill switch did nothing.
New coil is on order.