This is all really interesting.
To be honest, I had to Google "drag link", "toe in and toe out", and "wear plate." Even "wiring loom." It's a new lingo to me. It's an education.
My kid is really excited to find that steering arm, and we'll get the steering going before we take it apart again. We found an OEM steering arm on eBay for $10. We are taking your advice to go with OEM parts for a part that is clearly under a lot of stress. That was a good lesson. My kid does work with wiring, but I don't know if he's changed out a wiring loom yet. We have an old Gilson rototiller with electrical issues that he's been trying to fix (somebody gave it to him). We hit a snag on that one, but that's OK, we've got plenty to do with the MTDs right now.
We have another friend who likes Taryl and recommended him. But my kid is into action more than talk, so he didn't get into Taryl yet. The first video we saw by him was more talk than doing stuff. Taryl must be good if you also recommended him, tho. I think my kid has also seen Donny Boy some. He agreed with you when we read what you wrote about the old mowers. He likes how simple they are right now. He said the new John Deeres have got to be harder to fix. For now, we'll focus on these old ones and learn on them. It's great. He's excited now, because once the steering starts working on this V-twin MTD 1995, he's got a working mower. He'll take off the mower deck, fix it up, maybe try to sell it. And he'll use the mower as a vehicle after we get new tires and fix the steering. He's real excited about the project.
Steve:smile:
The width of the front cross beam varies as the tyres get bigger
Thus the bend at the end of the arm varies to clear everything.
These old mowers are great because you get real drag links with adjustable ends so he can play with toe in and toe out.
Valuable lessons in steering geometry.
Speaking of the cross member, it should come out so you can inspect the lip that it pivots on and the condition of the front & back wear plates.
I regularly have to weld a bit of tube in there.
Some are available in the USA but not down here & when you add the freight it is not a viable repair so out comes the oxy.
The racers here bolt them up solid at a lean depending upon which way they are racing that day.
I fit grade 9 allan headed caps to replace the clamp bolts with high tensile washers ( thicker ) at each end and a nylock nut
Grab a couple of cans of dry white lithium chassis grease and spray it liberally on every surface that rubs.
I use around 1/2 can on every service to give you an idea of how much to spray around.
Next to playing a musical instrument ( drums are not an instrument ) pulling things apart & putting them back together is one of the best things you can do to stimulate a young mind.
HE will probably enjoy Taryl Fixes all and once he is getting the hang of things, see if he is interested in putting his own MTD restoration channel up on you tube.
Apart from Taryl I found Donny Boy very useful but it sounds like he has the engine bit sorted.
Also see if he can be pointed towards replacing the wiring looms.
It is amazing how many people can pull an engine apart in the dark with nothing more than a bent shifter but go to jelly when they see more than 3 wires.
In the computer & Smart phone age , no one buys their kids electronics kits any more so they always find electricity confusing.
As he gets into latter models you get the chance to show him more complicated circuits, with safety features which becomes a good talking point about safety .
