New to me Craftsman LT1000 couple things, pushing mower question

[bertsmobile1]

And although I did not mention it by now you most likely realised the disc needs to be able to move on the spline as it is floating disc type brake.
The splines are another place I like to use Tri-Flow as a lube, just 1 or 2 drops

 

[Jim1590]

So here is where I am at.

Removed the brake casing, have new one coming rather than drill and tap the bolts. How do I get the turning mechanism off the top? Is the bolt reverse threaded or do I just turn to the stop then apply torque?
Also, the spline will only spine when tractor is driving, correct? Cause it is jot moving with the wheels.

In air, wheels spun opposite directions, brake off obviously. Put the tractor back on the ground with the brake spline fully exposed, rotor sitting on a table. I can push forward and the tractor will move with some resistance. Will not push in reverse (should it?) Need to lift and pull to bring back to work area.

Bracket for push pull still appears frozen where it would be if the rod was retracted in drive position. I am imagining that the bracket should turn freely maybe 45 degrees or so towards the back which disengages everything. Then will spring back forward to its present position for driving. If some one can please confirm that so I know if I need to keep working on freeing that up.

Still need to finish the engine this coming weekend and the I can just test drive the thing to see if it all works.

Thanks

 

[Jim1590]

Got the new brake casing. How do I remove the rotating pin that actuates the brake from the old one?

Also the holes for the bolts are not threaded, I wonder if the loctite was used to "cement" the bolts in place. What should it be?

 

[bertsmobile1]

So here is where I am at.

Removed the brake casing, have new one coming rather than drill and tap the bolts. How do I get the turning mechanism off the top? Is the bolt reverse threaded or do I just turn to the stop then apply torque?
Also, the spline will only spine when tractor is driving, correct? Cause it is jot moving with the wheels.

In air, wheels spun opposite directions, brake off obviously. Put the tractor back on the ground with the brake spline fully exposed, rotor sitting on a table. I can push forward and the tractor will move with some resistance. Will not push in reverse (should it?) Need to lift and pull to bring back to work area.

Bracket for push pull still appears frozen where it would be if the rod was retracted in drive position. I am imagining that the bracket should turn freely maybe 45 degrees or so towards the back which disengages everything. Then will spring back forward to its present position for driving. If some one can please confirm that so I know if I need to keep working on freeing that up.

Still need to finish the engine this coming weekend and the I can just test drive the thing to see if it all works.

Thanks

The bypass rod only turns a very small about, 30 deg rotation tops.
The brake is conncted to the garbox forward of the diff so it works independently of the rear wheels
For a car ananology you can think of it as a locking mechanism for the tailshaft if that helps you visualise how things work.

The center nut undose and the bolt is either welded to the brake lever or a captive bolt.
So with the nut off the whole thing should push out backwards.
The 2 little steel pins that are pushed in by the brake lever and in turn push the pad onto the disc are nt retained and should push right through.

 

[Jim1590]

Got the brake back together, changed oil, filters, plug.

Started it up and ran fine. Put into gear and it moved both directions. But started to belch white smoke. Didn't die (although I shut it off quickly).

Head gasket?

 

[bertsmobile1]

Well done with the brakes & tranny.
Let it run for a little while to see if the smoke clears away if you have been jacking up the mower you might have some oil in the exhaust.
Check the oil level, smell it and feel it between your fingers if it smells a bit like fuel or feels thin change it, a couple of times and use real mower oil.

Some Inteks seem to have a head gasket problem and they need to be changed almost evey second season no matter what I do.
Othere have run 10 years without a problem. I can not make head nor tail of it but I rather think there was a couple of mould patterns that were not quite right.

 

[Jim1590]

Well the oil and gas were both drained when I did everything. Doubt I sloshed much around.

I did pull the gasket and there were a few bad spots. Cleaning it all now. Have a new gasket.

Any pointers on the rocker arm reassembly with positioning?

Thanks. Oh and the disconnect still is not working for pushing. Think it is pretty well jammed up. Problem for another time.

Thanks

 

[Jim1590]

Back to waiting. Was tightening the head gasket bolts to 20 ft lb as found on several YouTube videos and SNAP!

Will drill it out and get ALL new bolts.

Amazon has them for almost 8 each. Ouch. EBay 5 each. Will see if I can get locally for cheaper on monday.

Good thing the grass ain't growing yet.

 

[Jim1590]

Got the new gasket on. Everything is back together.

On the lifters, manual calls for 0.05 to 0.07 on exhaust, 0.03 to 0.05 intake.

Is 6 and 4 ok? Never set lifters before, I have them at right enough for resistance pulling out the blade.

Once I am sure on that, I will rtv the cover and let it sit for a day or two. Should have it running tomorrow night hopefully.

Then need to finish the transmission disconnect. Would like to be able to push it when needed.

 

[Jim1590]

Put it all together and started it up. Engine had a lot of stuttering and died.

Pretty sure I have the valve clearances wrong. Probably wrong because it was first time I did them.

Can someone walk me through the best way to set them?

Thanks in advance.