New Raptor 36" - uneven mowing pattern

[CMOS]

Cmos,

Just remove the union, get yourself a new long thread bolt, weld it to the original and you're all set.

You could make a longer bolt to put the strain on the shaft of the bolt and away from the threads. Make it happen and you'll be done with replacing that bolt.

Max

Thanks for the input. New one already inbound, but if ti happens again I will go this route.


CMOS

 

[kraky]

The things you will learn on the forums.... I am 61 years old and never heard of a two-inch long Union nut until today! I can hardly wait to wake up and find out what's new tomorrow....lol!

 

[mhavanti]

Kraky,

Well, you are just a pup after all. If you live, you'll learn a couple more things as the calendar pages continues flipping. lol

Max

 

[7394]

Once the deck is set for level it should stay level at all cutting Heights. If it is tilted down the tips of the blades will cut a lower swats at the front of the deck leaving little valleys in line with the spindle of the blade. Also cutting at a very high cutting height if you do not have very thick grass can also leave a ragged cut because the wind from the blades can blow the grass around and they can escape being cut clean by the blades. These principles apply to any brand of Mower and mower deck.

According to the Manual & to the manuals I have had with all previous mowers as well. You set Level "Side to side" Then you check the slope to front, in spec is from 1/16" to 5/16" lower in front.

I set slope @ 1/8" lower in front with me on board. The cut is primo.

Check your Owners Manual, your single blade mower 'may' be different.

 

[CMOS]

According to the Manual & to the manuals I have had with all previous mowers as well. You set Level "Side to side" Then you check the slope to front, in spec is from 1/16" to 5/16" lower in front.

I set slope @ 1/8" lower in front with me on board. The cut is primo.

Check your Owners Manual, your single blade mower 'may' be different.

7394,

My Raptor 36 is a 2-blade. The manual I have, and all that I could find on-line, do not have any info at all on the deck adjustment FOR MY VERSION. These manuals all seem to apply to the SD's. However, it's obvious as to how to adjust with that front pivot shaft (the part that broke on mine).

I did receive the new part, which is considerably thicker and stronger than the original. I guess Hustler paid attention to all the replacement orders for this part. The new part appears to also be made form that slightly gold Grade-8 material. MUCH beefier. I made my first adjustment, then mowed, and got a pretty good cut.

I have to get used to this type of mower as the cut seems to be greatly effected by the terrain's topography. Much more so than my previous JD L118 Riding Mower. This statement isn't really a complaint, as I just cut my mowing time to less than half of what it used to be, but the cut on the Raptor is not as dead-pan level as my last JD.

I'll take your advice on the front deck height adjustment on the next mowing day.

CMOS

 

[mhavanti]

CMOS,

Before you level the deck side to side and front to rear. Make sure your tires are dead on the same pressures side to side. The narrow tires on the zero turn require a great deal more pressure than a wider tire. Wider tires work with volume as well as pressure. Narrow operate simply on pressure.

So, find the sweet spot your hillsides require so that you no longer scalp or make crop circles when you back up. From that point on, use that air pressure. Also at that point, make sure you have then managed a side to side level and whatever you like on the front to rear level.

That should get you up running dead pan level across your cutting areas.

Max

 

[CMOS]

Other than tire pressure I don't see any way to adjust the deck height side-to-side. Am I missing something?


CMOS

 

[mhavanti]

CMOS,

Check for these things as well:



Max

 

[CMOS]

CMOS,

Check for these things as well:

View attachment 39928

Max

Will do. Thanks.

CMOS