New MX5060 Owner

BillH2

Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2014
Threads
4
Messages
23
You know I am always trying to test things.
So I did a oil change ( not saying what brand ) with a brand I do not use. Been using sae30 went with 10-30 This mower never has used oil or smoked. Has been 4 days and 4 quarts of oil.
The thing is I use 10-30 in most of my mowers. And have no problems. This one I got used a couple years ago so I use what was in it. What I have came up with is pick one oil when the mower is new and stay with it.

The manual says that for 85 degree or higher temps, use 40W oil. This most likely due to the higher temperatures that an air cooled engine, which already has to contend with high temperatures, has to deal with. It's supposed to be mid 80's here this weekend, and we will be barely into May. June thru August will be 90's and 100's. I am leaning toward 20-50 Castrol Racing because I have quite a bit of it. (Classic car with lots of clearance in the bottom end).
 

cphilip

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2012
Threads
1
Messages
12
Newish MX5400 owner here. What a machine eh? Great cutter, easy on the behind and easy to clean under that deck.

But I digress....

My dealer is adamant that single viscosity oil is what Yamaha wants you to use. Here he wants 30W. Its what I used in the Husqy I had with a Yamaha before this too.
 

BillH2

Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2014
Threads
4
Messages
23
Newish MX5400 owner here. What a machine eh? Great cutter, easy on the behind and easy to clean under that deck.

But I digress....

My dealer is adamant that single viscosity oil is what Yamaha wants you to use. Here he wants 30W. Its what I used in the Husqy I had with a Yamaha before this too.

You mean Kawasaki? The dipstick says 10-30, the book says 40 weight for 85 degree plus temperatures, which will be here next week.
 

Brucebotti

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2011
Threads
31
Messages
297
The owner's manual and the Kawasaki Shop manual say 30w for approximately 40 to 95 degrees. I never mow outside of this range, so I'll stick with the 30w. The 10w/30 has an even wider range of 0 to 95 degrees, so that would work fine for me also. I will stay away from the 40W which has a range of approximately 70 to 110 degrees.
Bruce
 

cphilip

Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2012
Threads
1
Messages
12
You mean Kawasaki?

Indeed I did. Thanks for the correction!

The dipstick says 10-30, the book says 40 weight for 85 degree plus temperatures, which will be here next week.

Not sure what my dipstick says but I thought mine said 30W... but the engine manual says what the above member is saying. A range from 32 to about 95F or so. Its on a chart so a little hard to tell but it goes above the 86 degree mark on that chart to about 35 degrees Centigrade which would be 95 degrees. And it also says in a little note that using multi grade oils will increase Oil consumption and to check the level often when using them.

Added on edit: My dipstick actually says both! First is 30 then there is a space and it then says 10 - 30.

I did learn a trick to putting the deck belt back on today. Maybe something known but the guy that answered the phone at my dealer today didn't suggest it. He just said it was tricky and you just need to keep trying. He also said it was easier with two people. Sure... isn't everything? My helper is 5 years old. So not much good advice.

But here it is

Reroute the lose belt onto ALL the deck pullies. Not on the motor pulley. Leave it off that for now.

Drop the deck down and lay on the left side.

Take a 2 foot long pry bar and place it between the deck stud (you'll see it right in front of that rear idler pulley, the one without the spring attached to it) and the idler pulley, laying the pry bar right onto the belt that's already in the idler pulley's groove. All belts up on the deck should be in their groves.

Pry back and over the primary pulley and keep going past the ear that holds the bolt that fastens the Belt cover down. I removed the plastic nut for this. And carefully rest your pry bar behind that ear and bolt. So it jams in there and the tension of the idler spring holds it in place.

Now move to the rear of the mower and take a short (4-6 inch) screw driver ( I used a punch and probably a Phillips head would be best) and line up the belt to the rear (motor) pulley best you can and use your screwdriver (or some such short tool) and pry the last little bit of belt onto the pulley. You'll hear you pry bar drop out as the tension goes off of it as the belt goes on. No problem. Now wiggle your screw driver or punch out and presto. Your done.

Worked for me.
 
Last edited:

djdicetn

Lawn Addict
Joined
Sep 3, 2012
Threads
12
Messages
2,193
The owner's manual and the Kawasaki Shop manual say 30w for approximately 40 to 95 degrees. I never mow outside of this range, so I'll stick with the 30w. The 10w/30 has an even wider range of 0 to 95 degrees, so that would work fine for me also. I will stay away from the 40W which has a range of approximately 70 to 110 degrees.
Bruce

My last two cents worth on this subject is....."small, air-cooled engines are DIFFERENT than large liquid-cooled automotive type engines and manufacturers(and my experience using SAE30 in my lawn mowers for the last 20 years) has convinced me to go by the manual....just like you said":0)
 

Brucebotti

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2011
Threads
31
Messages
297
My last two cents worth on this subject is....."small, air-cooled engines are DIFFERENT than large liquid-cooled automotive type engines and manufacturers(and my experience using SAE30 in my lawn mowers for the last 20 years) has convinced me to go by the manual....just like you said":0)

Hey djdicetn, remember when we were kids and we could by two pieces of penny candy for two cents..:laughing:. We better start charging more than two cents for advice...:smile:
Bruce
 
Top