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Took delivery of shiny new MX5060. (Unlike some family members, I plan on keeping it looking shiny new)
Reading the manual, I have some questions:

Oil Change. Manual calls for straight weight oil? This area sees temps in the 90's to low 100's during the summer. Toro says use 40W.
What's everyone doing in this case? I use 20-50 in my Shelby so I keep plenty of it. Any advantage to using Mobil 1 or another synthetic?

Filter. Manual says to change every other time oil is changed. I would be inclined to replace the filter every time, correct me if I am wrong.

Thanks

I'm assuming you have the 23hp Kawasaki engine. If I am correct, you can use 10W-40 oil if you want to. Agree with you, changing the filter with each oil change is a good idea. My recommendation is first oil change at 20 hours and then after every 50 hours. Using a synthetic oil will not hurt your engine, use the type of oil you feel most comfortable with. Read my signature.

Oh god he said the magic word. Ding ding ding let the match begin

Omg here we go.

Change the filter at every oil change.

And USE WHAT EVER BRAND OIL you want.

Quick we need a mod to shut this thread down

exotion said:

Quick we need a mod to shut this thread down

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Oh yea, I guess I did commit an error about soliciting opinions about oil. Few subjects raise so much controversy whether its race cars or lawn mowers. I was just surprised that the factory recommends a straight weight oil and says to expect "increased oil consumption" if multi-grade is used. (when I read that, I looked at my wife and said "Really? Straight weight oil" of course, she didn't have a clue what I was talking about.)

BillH2 said:

Oh yea, I guess I did commit an error about soliciting opinions about oil. Few subjects raise so much controversy whether its race cars or lawn mowers. I was just surprised that the factory recommends a straight weight oil and says to expect "increased oil consumption" if multi-grade is used. (when I read that, I looked at my wife and said "Really? Straight weight oil" of course, she didn't have a clue what I was talking about.)

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Well if the manual says to do something you definately should. Engineers kinda know what they are doing any brand is fine

exotion said:

Well if the manual says to do something you definately should. Engineers kinda know what they are doing any brand is fine

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I'm sorry, but I have to take exception; Over the years my experience with engineers is they aren't always in touch with real world situations. I have experienced first hand the "Not invented here" attitude from some of them. What I have learned is that you can always tell in Engineer, you just can't tell them much. :smile:

BillH2 said:

I'm sorry, but I have to take exception; Over the years my experience with engineers is they aren't always in touch with real world situations. I have experienced first hand the "Not invented here" attitude from some of them. What I have learned is that you can always tell in Engineer, you just can't tell them much. :smile:

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How dare you insult a fellow MX5060 owner...:laughing:. I am an Engineer, but I wouldn't want to touch the oil debate with a 10 foot pole....:smile:. I do know what you mean, though. I have worked with my fair share of stubborn arrogant ones. I was always pretty successful because I would actually ask the machine operators and set-up men what they would do to improve the equipment / process. As long as you listen, treat them with respect, and recognize them for their contribution, they are almost always willing to help. Besides, who knows the equipment / process better than someone operating it 8-10 hrs/day.

Personally, I use whatever the manufacturer recommends. I changed the oil and filter at 7 hours, and then again at the end of the season 35 hours. I will change both at the end of each season (approx 35 hrs). I always change the filter on all my vehicles when I change the oil. Maybe its overkill, but at least it makes me feel better.
Bruce

BillH2 said:

I'm sorry, but I have to take exception; Over the years my experience with engineers is they aren't always in touch with real world situations. I have experienced first hand the "Not invented here" attitude from some of them. What I have learned is that you can always tell in Engineer, you just can't tell them much. :smile:

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Gotta say tho unless you went to colledge and got the education you generally don't know better than them

Just got rid of a 1 year old MX5060 w/90 hrs. Used $&@-/ 1 oil 10w30. Changed at 10 hrs then again at 90. No noticeable consumption in those hrs. Filters with oil both times. Will be getting a Titan MX 5400 as soon as delivered and will do the same except maybe go to 10w-40.

I took delivery of my MX 5060 a month ago and have used it 4 times already! It does a really good job on chickweed!!!!!! As for oil, I read the manual also but I use 15/40 in everything else I have and it works for the climate and season I'm in. To me as long as you change on a regular schedule you should be fine! I don't like having many different kinds and weights of oil laying around! Good luck and HAPPY MOWING!!!

flywindy said:

I took delivery of my MX 5060 a month ago and have used it 4 times already! It does a really good job on chickweed!!!!!! As for oil, I read the manual also but I use 15/40 in everything else I have and it works for the climate and season I'm in. To me as long as you change on a regular schedule you should be fine! I don't like having many different kinds and weights of oil laying around! Good luck and HAPPY MOWING!!!

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I'll probably just get some 40W for the blistering hot summer months. I don't mind as I will probably only change oil 3 or 3 times pr. season. (Too bad I can't use 20-50 Castrol, I have a lot of it as the Shelby takes 7.5 quarts pr oil change)

Progress; Mowing 1 3/4 acres now takes just under one hour. In the 40+ years I have lived here, it's never been mowed that fast. I would like to get a spare set of blades but I am not having much luck finding the correct part numbers for the MX5060. (I think they are 17.5" with a 5.8" center hole) Can't seem to find a listing for Gator Blades that mentions that model number.
Can anyone also tell me if 49065-7007 is the correct part number for the oil filter? I thought I would get a WIX filter instead of going to the dealer.
Thanks

You can go to the Toro website and down load the parts manual and that will give you the part # for the blades!

49065-7007 is the correct part #. they are $9.50 - $10.50 at the dealer. I put Gator Blades on mine. I'll try to remember to look up the # tonight when I get home.
Bruce

I just found my Gator blade order. The part # was OR-96-382. They were purchased from MotownUSA. They were $11.97 each, and shipping was $10.99.

I am impressed with the cut, and would recommend them. I am keeping the original blades as back-up.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

Brucebotti said:

I just found my Gator blade order. The part # was OR-96-382. They were purchased from MotownUSA. They were $11.97 each, and shipping was $10.99.

I am impressed with the cut, and would recommend them. I am keeping the original blades as back-up.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

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Order placed
Thanks

exotion said:

Quick we need a mod to shut this thread down

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Oil debate.....what oil debate?:0)
At least this thread evolved into an engineer debate instead!! I agree with user Carscw....change your oil/filter every 50 hours and use whichever oil you feel comfortable with(although, I do tend to agree that the engine manual is a very good guide to what to use:0)

djdicetn said:

Oil debate.....what oil debate?:0) At least this thread evolved into an engineer debate instead!! I agree with user Carscw....change your oil/filter every 50 hours and use whichever oil you feel comfortable with(although, I do tend to agree that the engine manual is a very good guide to what to use:0)

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You know I am always trying to test things.
So I did a oil change ( not saying what brand ) with a brand I do not use. Been using sae30 went with 10-30 This mower never has used oil or smoked. Has been 4 days and 4 quarts of oil.
The thing is I use 10-30 in most of my mowers. And have no problems. This one I got used a couple years ago so I use what was in it. What I have came up with is pick one oil when the mower is new and stay with it.

Carscw said:

You know I am always trying to test things.
So I did a oil change ( not saying what brand ) with a brand I do not use. Been using sae30 went with 10-30 This mower never has used oil or smoked. Has been 4 days and 4 quarts of oil.
The thing is I use 10-30 in most of my mowers. And have no problems. This one I got used a couple years ago so I use what was in it. What I have came up with is pick one oil when the mower is new and stay with it.

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The manual says that for 85 degree or higher temps, use 40W oil. This most likely due to the higher temperatures that an air cooled engine, which already has to contend with high temperatures, has to deal with. It's supposed to be mid 80's here this weekend, and we will be barely into May. June thru August will be 90's and 100's. I am leaning toward 20-50 Castrol Racing because I have quite a bit of it. (Classic car with lots of clearance in the bottom end).

Newish MX5400 owner here. What a machine eh? Great cutter, easy on the behind and easy to clean under that deck.

But I digress....

My dealer is adamant that single viscosity oil is what Yamaha wants you to use. Here he wants 30W. Its what I used in the Husqy I had with a Yamaha before this too.

cphilip said:

Newish MX5400 owner here. What a machine eh? Great cutter, easy on the behind and easy to clean under that deck.

But I digress....

My dealer is adamant that single viscosity oil is what Yamaha wants you to use. Here he wants 30W. Its what I used in the Husqy I had with a Yamaha before this too.

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You mean Kawasaki? The dipstick says 10-30, the book says 40 weight for 85 degree plus temperatures, which will be here next week.

The owner's manual and the Kawasaki Shop manual say 30w for approximately 40 to 95 degrees. I never mow outside of this range, so I'll stick with the 30w. The 10w/30 has an even wider range of 0 to 95 degrees, so that would work fine for me also. I will stay away from the 40W which has a range of approximately 70 to 110 degrees.
Bruce

BillH2 said:

You mean Kawasaki?

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Indeed I did. Thanks for the correction!

BillH2 said:

The dipstick says 10-30, the book says 40 weight for 85 degree plus temperatures, which will be here next week.

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Not sure what my dipstick says but I thought mine said 30W... but the engine manual says what the above member is saying. A range from 32 to about 95F or so. Its on a chart so a little hard to tell but it goes above the 86 degree mark on that chart to about 35 degrees Centigrade which would be 95 degrees. And it also says in a little note that using multi grade oils will increase Oil consumption and to check the level often when using them.

Added on edit: My dipstick actually says both! First is 30 then there is a space and it then says 10 - 30.

I did learn a trick to putting the deck belt back on today. Maybe something known but the guy that answered the phone at my dealer today didn't suggest it. He just said it was tricky and you just need to keep trying. He also said it was easier with two people. Sure... isn't everything? My helper is 5 years old. So not much good advice.

But here it is

Reroute the lose belt onto ALL the deck pullies. Not on the motor pulley. Leave it off that for now.

Drop the deck down and lay on the left side.

Take a 2 foot long pry bar and place it between the deck stud (you'll see it right in front of that rear idler pulley, the one without the spring attached to it) and the idler pulley, laying the pry bar right onto the belt that's already in the idler pulley's groove. All belts up on the deck should be in their groves.

Pry back and over the primary pulley and keep going past the ear that holds the bolt that fastens the Belt cover down. I removed the plastic nut for this. And carefully rest your pry bar behind that ear and bolt. So it jams in there and the tension of the idler spring holds it in place.

Now move to the rear of the mower and take a short (4-6 inch) screw driver ( I used a punch and probably a Phillips head would be best) and line up the belt to the rear (motor) pulley best you can and use your screwdriver (or some such short tool) and pry the last little bit of belt onto the pulley. You'll hear you pry bar drop out as the tension goes off of it as the belt goes on. No problem. Now wiggle your screw driver or punch out and presto. Your done.

Worked for me.

Brucebotti said:

The owner's manual and the Kawasaki Shop manual say 30w for approximately 40 to 95 degrees. I never mow outside of this range, so I'll stick with the 30w. The 10w/30 has an even wider range of 0 to 95 degrees, so that would work fine for me also. I will stay away from the 40W which has a range of approximately 70 to 110 degrees.
Bruce

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My last two cents worth on this subject is....."small, air-cooled engines are DIFFERENT than large liquid-cooled automotive type engines and manufacturers(and my experience using SAE30 in my lawn mowers for the last 20 years) has convinced me to go by the manual....just like you said":0)

djdicetn said:

My last two cents worth on this subject is....."small, air-cooled engines are DIFFERENT than large liquid-cooled automotive type engines and manufacturers(and my experience using SAE30 in my lawn mowers for the last 20 years) has convinced me to go by the manual....just like you said":0)

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Hey djdicetn, remember when we were kids and we could by two pieces of penny candy for two cents..:laughing:. We better start charging more than two cents for advice...:smile:
Bruce