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New battery but engine still drags and won't really turn over good
#1
P
papalump44
P
papalump44
Hello All
I'm very new and in need of help please. My Dixon SpeedZTR 42 has a Brigg's and Stratten Intek 500cc 16.5 hp motor. I bought a new battery and it still turns over very hard and doesn't start. It will turn over a bit and stop, turn over a bit and stop like its too hard to turn over and drains on battery. Starter bad possibly? Is there a way to test starter?
I'm very new and in need of help please. My Dixon SpeedZTR 42 has a Brigg's and Stratten Intek 500cc 16.5 hp motor. I bought a new battery and it still turns over very hard and doesn't start. It will turn over a bit and stop, turn over a bit and stop like its too hard to turn over and drains on battery. Starter bad possibly? Is there a way to test starter?
#2
pugaltitude
Have you checked the earths from the chassis to engine? They can come slack and give symptoms of what you are describing.
Check all electrical connections.
It may also be that your engine valves require adjusting as the engine is not going past the compression stage when trying to start.
pugaltitude
Hello All
I'm very new and in need of help please. My Dixon SpeedZTR 42 has a Brigg's and Stratten Intek 500cc 16.5 hp motor. I bought a new battery and it still turns over very hard and doesn't start. It will turn over a bit and stop, turn over a bit and stop like its too hard to turn over and drains on battery. Starter bad possibly? Is there a way to test starter?
Have you checked the earths from the chassis to engine? They can come slack and give symptoms of what you are describing.
Check all electrical connections.
It may also be that your engine valves require adjusting as the engine is not going past the compression stage when trying to start.
#3
reynoldston
All very good advice above, also bad bushings in starter motor.
reynoldston
Have you checked the earths from the chassis to engine? They can come slack and give symptoms of what you are describing.
Check all electrical connections.
It may also be that your engine valves require adjusting as the engine is not going past the compression stage when trying to start.
All very good advice above, also bad bushings in starter motor.
#4
P
papalump44
I have looked at the ground from battery to engine, but not chassis to engine. It looked good, but did not take it apart to confirm. I'll take them apart and clean them now. I'll also check any other electrical connections I can think of. Apparently we are talking the ground connections just mentioned as well as solenoid and starter connections. Apparently all the safety connections are good, ie seat and levers and parking brake in the correct position, or it wouldn't even be trying to turn over, correct?
I should also add that before I bought the new battery, sometimes it would start right up after sitting a while and recharging battery. Does this possibly make the problem lean more towards bad starter and or bad connections than valves needing adjustment?
P
papalump44
Have you checked the earths from the chassis to engine? They can come slack and give symptoms of what you are describing.
Check all electrical connections.
It may also be that your engine valves require adjusting as the engine is not going past the compression stage when trying to start.
I have looked at the ground from battery to engine, but not chassis to engine. It looked good, but did not take it apart to confirm. I'll take them apart and clean them now. I'll also check any other electrical connections I can think of. Apparently we are talking the ground connections just mentioned as well as solenoid and starter connections. Apparently all the safety connections are good, ie seat and levers and parking brake in the correct position, or it wouldn't even be trying to turn over, correct?
I should also add that before I bought the new battery, sometimes it would start right up after sitting a while and recharging battery. Does this possibly make the problem lean more towards bad starter and or bad connections than valves needing adjustment?
#5
P
papalump44
Would tapping on starter with hammer possibly help in determining starter problem versus valve adjustment?
Can auto parts store test this starter and determine if it is good?
I'd hate to have to get in valve adjustments. :frown:
P
papalump44
All very good advice above, also bad bushings in starter motor.
Would tapping on starter with hammer possibly help in determining starter problem versus valve adjustment?
Can auto parts store test this starter and determine if it is good?
I'd hate to have to get in valve adjustments. :frown:
#6
reynoldston
reynoldston
If the bushings are bad in the starter it will drag all the time and if the brushes are bad in the starter the starter wouldn't work at all. The only way to test the starter is take a amperage draw test that I know of. Not that bad of a job to check the valve adjustment
#7
P
papalump44
Thank you. On my way to garage to check grounds and valves now. Just youtubed valve adjustment. I was scared for nothing. Ha. Doesn't seem to bad.
P
papalump44
If the bushings are bad in the starter it will drag all the time and if the brushes are bad in the starter the starter wouldn't work at all. The only way to test the starter is take a amperage draw test that I know of. Not that bad of a job to check the valve adjustment
Thank you. On my way to garage to check grounds and valves now. Just youtubed valve adjustment. I was scared for nothing. Ha. Doesn't seem to bad.
#8
Carscw
Carscw
Guess I will be the one to tell you. Do not tap on the starter with a hammer. If you do not need a starter you will
#9
P
papalump44
Thank you. Thankfully I got some business calls and haven't made it to the garage yet to destroy my starter!
P
papalump44
Guess I will be the one to tell you. Do not tap on the starter with a hammer. If you do not need a starter you will
Thank you. Thankfully I got some business calls and haven't made it to the garage yet to destroy my starter!
#10
P
papalump44
After learning how to adjust the valves from you tube, not very hard to do I learned, I tried to start it and now its totally different symptoms. The solenoid is just clicking on once when I turn key to start. No attempt at rotation of motor. Battery is new, solenoid is passing 12+ to the starter and the little wire on the solenoid when I turn to start. I haven't taken grounds apart yet to clean, but they do look and feel good. The valves were very tight. Couldn't even get .002" in them. I feel I adjusted valves correctly, but don't think that would cause this new problem anyway nor the bad grounds if they existed would they. After all, before it tried to turn over but dragged. Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm?
P
papalump44
Have you checked the earths from the chassis to engine? They can come slack and give symptoms of what you are describing.
Check all electrical connections.
It may also be that your engine valves require adjusting as the engine is not going past the compression stage when trying to start.
After learning how to adjust the valves from you tube, not very hard to do I learned, I tried to start it and now its totally different symptoms. The solenoid is just clicking on once when I turn key to start. No attempt at rotation of motor. Battery is new, solenoid is passing 12+ to the starter and the little wire on the solenoid when I turn to start. I haven't taken grounds apart yet to clean, but they do look and feel good. The valves were very tight. Couldn't even get .002" in them. I feel I adjusted valves correctly, but don't think that would cause this new problem anyway nor the bad grounds if they existed would they. After all, before it tried to turn over but dragged. Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm?
#11
Carscw
I know you said the battery is new. So just for fun run same jumper cables from the car battery to the mower battery.
And give it a try.
Carscw
After learning how to adjust the valves from you tube, not very hard to do I learned, I tried to start it and now its totally different symptoms. The solenoid is just clicking on once when I turn key to start. No attempt at rotation of motor. Battery is new, solenoid is passing 12+ to the starter and the little wire on the solenoid when I turn to start. I haven't taken grounds apart yet to clean, but they do look and feel good. The valves were very tight. Couldn't even get .002" in them. I feel I adjusted valves correctly, but don't think that would cause this new problem anyway nor the bad grounds if they existed would they. After all, before it tried to turn over but dragged. Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm?
I know you said the battery is new. So just for fun run same jumper cables from the car battery to the mower battery.
And give it a try.
#12
P
papalump44
Ok, just did that and nothing. Just one big click from solonoid. This is strange, before I adjusted valves it was dragging but turning, now just the click.
P
papalump44
I know you said the battery is new. So just for fun run same jumper cables from the car battery to the mower battery.
And give it a try.
Ok, just did that and nothing. Just one big click from solonoid. This is strange, before I adjusted valves it was dragging but turning, now just the click.
#13
P
papalump44
OK, coincidences seem to be occurring as my symptoms have been changing. I took off the top cover to see the gear of the starter and the starter is not engaging even though it is getting 12 + volts from the solenoid which is giving one big click each time I turn the key to start. Does this mean now after getting a new battery and adjusting my valves my starter has coincidentally gone bad now?????
P
papalump44
OK, just did that and nothing. Just one big click from solenoid. This is strange, before I adjusted valves it was dragging but turning, now just the click.
OK, coincidences seem to be occurring as my symptoms have been changing. I took off the top cover to see the gear of the starter and the starter is not engaging even though it is getting 12 + volts from the solenoid which is giving one big click each time I turn the key to start. Does this mean now after getting a new battery and adjusting my valves my starter has coincidentally gone bad now?????
#14
Carscw
Hook one end of jumper cables to battery the other end put the ground to a good spot on the engine. Take the positive and tap it to the post on the starter. If starter does not spin the engine and you can turn the engine by hand then I would get a starter.
Carscw
OK, coincidences seem to be occurring as my symptoms have been changing. I took off the top cover to see the gear of the starter and the starter is not engaging even though it is getting 12 + volts from the solenoid which is giving one big click each time I turn the key to start. Does this mean now after getting a new battery and adjusting my valves my starter has coincidentally gone bad now?????
Hook one end of jumper cables to battery the other end put the ground to a good spot on the engine. Take the positive and tap it to the post on the starter. If starter does not spin the engine and you can turn the engine by hand then I would get a starter.
#15
Carscw
Carscw
If starter does not work then go on and tap it with a hammer on the bottom. Not on the sides.
#16
pugaltitude
pugaltitude
If your valves were only 0.02 when you checked then that would
Mean the valves are opening wider and allowing engine to pass the compression stage when turning engine over.
Now you have adjusted them which means the clearance is wider and now the engine is not passing compression.
what happens if you take the spark plug out and turn key?
W
Mean the valves are opening wider and allowing engine to pass the compression stage when turning engine over.
Now you have adjusted them which means the clearance is wider and now the engine is not passing compression.
what happens if you take the spark plug out and turn key?
W
#17
pugaltitude
pugaltitude
Forget above post.
Could be bad starter.
Its all about elimination.
Could be bad starter.
Its all about elimination.
#18
pugaltitude
pugaltitude
Right lets start again.
If you take terminal off starter and check for 12 volts, what voltage do you get when you turn the key?
If you take terminal off starter and check for 12 volts, what voltage do you get when you turn the key?
#19
Carscw
He is getting 12 volts to the starter.
Carscw
Right lets start again. If you take terminal off starter and check for 12 volts, what voltage do you get when you turn the key?
He is getting 12 volts to the starter.
#20
reynoldston
reynoldston
I have said this before. Starter needs amperage as well as voltage. You will get voltage with a bad cable, solenoid, or connection but not enough amperage to run the starter. Amp. are the amount of flow.
#21
P
papalump44
I hope that's it!!!
P
papalump44
Well I tried both of those tactics and nothing. Pretty convinced starter is bad now so I took it off and will take it to shop tomorrow to confirm and probably by new one.Thank you. Thankfully I got some business calls and haven't made it to the garage yet to destroy my starter!
I hope that's it!!!
#22
gfp55
gfp55
Have you tried removing plug, then turn the engine over with key to see if it spins?
#23
P
papalump44
I did the jumper cable test and got nothing, I also tried tapping on the "bottom" and got nothing. I don't know if the starter was my original dragging problem, but now I get a good solid click from the solenoid and voltage to the starter but that's it. With plug out the same thing. Didn't take wire off starter to test voltage, but tested it while still attached to starter and had 12+ volts. Can't get at it right now as I had to clean up to get wife's truck in garage for the night. I hear what you said about having voltage and not amperage. Shouldn't we be able to count on new battery providing amperage or no?
Starter is off now and will take it to shop to confirm if it is any good and will buy new one if not tomorrow morning and put it on and pray all is good. Whew.
I really appreciate you guys helping through this and hope I can give good news tomorrow.
P
papalump44
I have said this before. Starter needs amperage as well as voltage. You will get voltage with a bad cable, solenoid, or connection but not enough amperage to run the starter. Amp. are the amount of flow.
I did the jumper cable test and got nothing, I also tried tapping on the "bottom" and got nothing. I don't know if the starter was my original dragging problem, but now I get a good solid click from the solenoid and voltage to the starter but that's it. With plug out the same thing. Didn't take wire off starter to test voltage, but tested it while still attached to starter and had 12+ volts. Can't get at it right now as I had to clean up to get wife's truck in garage for the night. I hear what you said about having voltage and not amperage. Shouldn't we be able to count on new battery providing amperage or no?
Starter is off now and will take it to shop to confirm if it is any good and will buy new one if not tomorrow morning and put it on and pray all is good. Whew.
I really appreciate you guys helping through this and hope I can give good news tomorrow.
#24
P
papalump44
Yes I have and it didn't spin then either.
P
papalump44
Have you tried removing plug, then turn the engine over with key to see if it spins?
Yes I have and it didn't spin then either.
#25
Carscw
Carscw
Now that you have the starter off. Hook jumper cables to it. Black to one of the bolt holes then tap red on the post.
#26
reynoldston
reynoldston
Shouldn't we be able to count on new battery providing amperage or no?
Not if it can't if it can't make it to the starter. This is the very reason Carscw is trying to have you bypass everything with the jumper cables, he is giving you good information here. This will be your starter test.
Not if it can't if it can't make it to the starter. This is the very reason Carscw is trying to have you bypass everything with the jumper cables, he is giving you good information here. This will be your starter test.
#27
Carscw
Thank you sir.
I hate electrical stuff. Best tools I have found to use is a battery load tester and my volt meter.
Carscw
Shouldn't we be able to count on new battery providing amperage or no? Not if it can't if it can't make it to the starter. This is the very reason Carscw is trying to have you bypass everything with the jumper cables, he is giving you good information here. This will be your starter test.
Thank you sir.
I hate electrical stuff. Best tools I have found to use is a battery load tester and my volt meter.
#28
P
papalump44
Well folks, I got a late start today, but finally confirmed the starter was bad and bought a new one. It is turning over the mower, but the little gear does not always drop back down out of the way of the fly wheel and the mower still won't start. It is not dragging now, but turns good for a couple seconds and then stops. In my humble opinion, which really means nothing on these topics, I'm not getting the valves set properly. It didn't seem like rocket science when I watched a couple of you tube videos on how to do it, but I think that is my problem now since it ran a couple days ago when my battery started to dye and my starter started to die, or I killed it, and now those issues should be gone. When I was trying to solve the original problem, I learned that my valves may need adjusted so I did it. Again, I'm guessing that is my problem now.
Any thoughts for this dummy??
I do appreciate all the input you all have been offering.
P
papalump44
Thank you sir.
I hate electrical stuff. Best tools I have found to use is a battery load tester and my volt meter.
Well folks, I got a late start today, but finally confirmed the starter was bad and bought a new one. It is turning over the mower, but the little gear does not always drop back down out of the way of the fly wheel and the mower still won't start. It is not dragging now, but turns good for a couple seconds and then stops. In my humble opinion, which really means nothing on these topics, I'm not getting the valves set properly. It didn't seem like rocket science when I watched a couple of you tube videos on how to do it, but I think that is my problem now since it ran a couple days ago when my battery started to dye and my starter started to die, or I killed it, and now those issues should be gone. When I was trying to solve the original problem, I learned that my valves may need adjusted so I did it. Again, I'm guessing that is my problem now.
Any thoughts for this dummy??
I do appreciate all the input you all have been offering.
#29
Carscw
Let me help you adjust valves the easy way.
Pull the spark plug take valve cover off. Turn flywheel counterclockwise until one valve is all the way open. ( rocker arm is pushing it in) then adjust other valve to specks. To the same for the other one.
Carscw
Well folks, I got a late start today, but finally confirmed the starter was bad and bought a new one. It is turning over the mower, but the little gear does not always drop back down out of the way of the fly wheel and the mower still won't start. It is not dragging now, but turns good for a couple seconds and then stops. In my humble opinion, which really means nothing on these topics, I'm not getting the valves set properly. It didn't seem like rocket science when I watched a couple of you tube videos on how to do it, but I think that is my problem now since it ran a couple days ago when my battery started to dye and my starter started to die, or I killed it, and now those issues should be gone. When I was trying to solve the original problem, I learned that my valves may need adjusted so I did it. Again, I'm guessing that is my problem now. Any thoughts for this dummy?? I do appreciate all the input you all have been offering.
Let me help you adjust valves the easy way.
Pull the spark plug take valve cover off. Turn flywheel counterclockwise until one valve is all the way open. ( rocker arm is pushing it in) then adjust other valve to specks. To the same for the other one.
#30
P
papalump44
P
papalump44
Just got back from taking the wife to get a bite to eat. I don't know if I can wait until morning to try that! I better though, I'm tired. Thank you so much! That has to be all that's wrong now since it was running before my battery and starter puked. That's the only thing I could've screwed up! I hope.Let me help you adjust valves the easy way.
Pull the spark plug take valve cover off. Turn flywheel counterclockwise until one valve is all the way open. ( rocker arm is pushing it in) then adjust other valve to specks. To the same for the other one.
#31
P
papalump44
Thank you so much for that last valve adjustment tip! It runs! Thank you all for all of the help and tips. I'm guessing I started out with a bad battery and possibly valves needing adjustment, then compounded the problem by adjusting my valves poorly and then burning up my starter as a result. New battery, new starter and proper valve adjustment and I'm down the road(lawn).
Can't thank you all enough. I learned a lot. Now I'm going to tackle a Yard Machine Briggs & Stratton that my brother in law gave me that was running last year when he put it away so I have a tractor to roll my lawn with. Definetley needs a battery and possibly safety switch checking. Wish me luck!
P
papalump44
Just got back from taking the wife to get a bite to eat. I don't know if I can wait until morning to try that! I better though, I'm tired. Thank you so much! That has to be all that's wrong now since it was running before my battery and starter puked. That's the only thing I could've screwed up! I hope.
Thank you so much for that last valve adjustment tip! It runs! Thank you all for all of the help and tips. I'm guessing I started out with a bad battery and possibly valves needing adjustment, then compounded the problem by adjusting my valves poorly and then burning up my starter as a result. New battery, new starter and proper valve adjustment and I'm down the road(lawn).
Can't thank you all enough. I learned a lot. Now I'm going to tackle a Yard Machine Briggs & Stratton that my brother in law gave me that was running last year when he put it away so I have a tractor to roll my lawn with. Definetley needs a battery and possibly safety switch checking. Wish me luck!