I'd also like to acquire a 2-Stroke Lawn Boy. They seem quirky and different, kind of a like a Saab.
It seems they have a bit of a cult following in certain circles. Although not everyone seems to like them. There's one at the small engine shop with a blown motor. One mechanic wants to fix it the other hates it. :laughing:
When I was a kid I remember one of my neighbors had two old Lawn Boys sitting in their back yard. At the time I didn't know what they were but remember the odd wheel layout and the green decks. Shame I never asked for them.
So far I've been able to flip these mowers for $60-$100 with little investment beyond carb cleaner, diaphragms (for the Class Briggs), and bowl, float, and gasket kits for some the Tecumsehs and tune up items. So I put in $10-$20 and make an easy 50+ profit. They may not be high-end but I work with what I get. I've always got my eye out for something more intriguing. :wink:
My best one is my mower, which retails for $307.99 at the store. I could get pretty good money for it I bet but it's not for sale. :tongue:
You're right about the cult following for old Lawn-Boys. :laughing: There are a few of us here on LMF in the LB section. For me it's: two-stroke engine, alloy deck and non-self-propelled. The LB brand is actually the more common one -- I've been looking for a 1960s two-stroke Jacobsen rotary for a couple of years but without any luck.
I see your point about working with what you can get. It takes time to find the desirable old mowers.
Keep up the good work. :thumbsup:
BTW, do you switch to another hobby for the winter?
Nice mowers but the picture above the description "eally happy with how it turned out. That one I sold to a friend who will hopefully take care of it, and I'll be able to see how the bed liner holds up."
Looks like the blade is on upside down or is it just the picture?
Sweet Jesus!
Those mowers look like brand new now! :thumbsup:
I am impressed! Nothing wrong with fixing up cheap mowers, you do great work.
I'd also like to acquire a 2-Stroke Lawn Boy. They seem quirky and different, kind of a like a Saab.
Two-Stroke said:I had another thought about the Saab/Lawn-Boy analogy: at one time both brands produced unique, innovative designs that were, in many ways, superior to other brands at the time. However, both brands declined and now produce products which are essentially interchangeable -- except for the nameplate -- with the rest of the market.
It's a shame for both Lawn-Boy and Saab -- their better years are behind them and are never coming back.
There's a couple of cheap, interesting mowers for sale on CL I want to look into.
One is this Simplicity mower. I don't really know much about them but it looks like a Lawn Boy deck with a Briggs engine. For $25 the price seems right.
The other one is a Lawn Boy. No idea what model ( I don't know much about Lawn Boys in general) but its 2-stroke and it's also $25.
The sellers don't really know anything about either mower. The Simplicity, based on the engine, I'm going to guess late 70's-earlly 80's.
Good work hanyoukimura! Nice job and you should be proud, a little epoxy can work wonders sometimes you never know until you try.
I've notice that one of the spokes on the right rear wheel is cracked all the way through. I wonder if Plastic Epoxy will sufficiently repair it? Otherwise it's running great and cleaned up nicely. I might even get lucky and get the bag for it.
Good work hanyoukimura! Nice job and you should be proud, a little epoxy can work wonders sometimes you never know until you try.
Hanyoukimura does do good work. This is an excellent thread you've started here. You are a good reason to have a website like LMF.
I hope your good fortune continues.
Great contribution, thank you
:thumbsup::thumbsup:
To boost the strength of the epoxy:
Apply one coat of epoxy.
Then, with that still wet, press on a patch of fiberglass cloth and allow it to dry.
Finish with another coat of epoxy.
If the crack is near the hub, trying to repair it this way may be a losing battle.
BTW, I got the Lawn-Boy ($25 on CraigsList) that I mentioned earlier in this thread and I'm very happy with the deal that I got -- a very good parts mower for the money.
Picked up both (the Simplicity and the Poulan) this evening. Haven't had a super good look at them since its dark, but the Simplicity one is really neat..and quite light. I'll have to get photos tomorrow.
The Simplicity mower could be a keeper. Is the deck alloy or steel? How's the engine?
It's definitely either aluminum or magnesium...not sure how to tell which, but its light and there's no rust, at least on the outside where the paint is missing. Haven't looked under it yet.
Engine's got compression, that's all I checked when I got it home. Owner said it ran when he used it last a couple years ago, then drained the gas and stopped using it because he has 3 other mowers.
If I have time I'll see if it starts up.
It's a neat mower.
The deck is probably an AL/MG alloy. That's my favorite material for a mower deck -- steel decks eventually rust unless they're perfectly maintained -- which is unrealistic for most people.
Good luck with your fine acquisition. Keep us informed.
If I'm reading the tag correctly it's model ID is 857 044933 but I dunno. I can't find any info on it. What I can say is its very cool, definitely a keeper. I did actually get it running with the aid of some carb spray. It actually stayed running and the self propelled feature works. It will need a carb cleaning and a tune but, but overall I'm really happy with this seemingly rare mower.
The only cure is more lawn mowers! :tongue:
Fixing and flipping is a fun (and profitable) way to obtain a bunch of them without having too many clutter up the garage.
I've got at least two which have found permanent residence, the Brute and the Simplicity. I'm still debating about the self-propelled Poulan Pro. I'd like to add a newer Toro Recycler (I like the way they look) and an older Lawn Boy and something really old to my permanent fleet.
The only problem with it is there's a piece of the deck missing underside. Does effect how it mows though.
You meant that it does not affect the mowing -- right? That kind of thing can happen with alloy decks. Somebody must have hit a rock or something and cracked off that piece. It looks like it wouldn't show when viewed from the top.
So I've got a good haul today!
I came across an ad on CL by a guy selling mowers for $5 a piece. Claims he has like 30 of them. It was an hour's drive but seemed well worth it. Come to find out the guy normally grabs them and sells them cheap to anyone who wants them. I managed to grab four: a basic Weed Eater, a Craftsman 22" SP side bagger, a Briggs powered, aluminum deck Toro, and a Lawn Boy! For $20! I'm pretty thrilled. Haven't had a super close look at them yet, but the LB is a 2 stroke and said "gold" on it. I will get more info on these later. He also had a Toro wit h a Suzuki 2-stroke. Hopefully it's there next time (he wants $30 for it because it runs) as I really want it. Definitely going back there again!
I'll get photos when I can.
In the meantime I got this Murray running great and ready for Spring.
Didn't get much time to look them over when I got home from work (it was already dark), but here's a few photos to tide you guys.
The Lawn Boy is a keeper, can't wait to work on it. LB experts I'd love some troubleshooting tips, never worked on a 2-stroke before.
Didn't get much time to look them over when I got home from work (it was already dark), but here's a few photos to tide you guys.
The Toro is in good shape, really light, I probably won't keep it if I snag the 2-stroke Toro next time, but should fetch a nice price once its all up and running.
The final acquisition is a real gem, so I've heard. It's a Toro with a Suzuki 2-stroke on it. Its a self-propelled, RWD mower, quite a beast. Got it for $20 (the other two were 5 a piece).
The guy claims it runs, although pulling it over a few times got me nothing. Maybe bad gas? It was sitting outside all winter. I'd actually like some tips with both this and the Lawn Boy. I've never worked on a 2-stroke so I don't know how to troubleshoot them beyond don't use starting fluid or carb cleaner because they have no lubricants. Any advice on getting these two going would be most welcome.
Thanks for the info, Hopefully Sunday I'll get to take a look at it.
Regarding the fuel mixtures for these two strokes, is it 32:1 for Lawn Boy and 50:1 for the Toro?
I'm waiting for news about the Suzuki-Toro. I guess you would post it if there's anything new.
About the motor with the hole that you showed in the above photo: where is the hole and how do you think it got there? I'm curious -- it seems strange.
On Tecumseh engines: I've never thought much of them and I'd never waste my time on one. Just IMHO. :wink:
It sounds like you've been productive. I'm still waiting to hear about the two-stroke Toro. Also, you mention a Lawn-Boy in your profile -- what's the model number? I've got a couple LBs that I need to work on.
I had a great weekend mowing. The grass is growing at a good clip here in the South. :biggrin:
My beloved Lawn-Boy model 7266 was hard to start and didn't run quite up to par even when warmed up. The problem seems to be the air filter element -- I'm going to try another one.
The Suzuki-Toro ran great and did all the tough mowing (tall grass, uneven terrain) so I'm very happy with it.
Your doing a great job and thanks for taking the time to post the info and the pictures.
If you have time, post more info on the wheel/axle fix. I'd like to know what material you used as the sleeve and what size bore for the wheel.
Here is the what I used: a 1/2 x 5/8 x 1-1/2 steel spacer.
Assuming you have the drill bit total cost of parts is about $3. This, compared to axles which can go anywhere from $4 to $15 maybe even higher and wheels that can go from $15 to $25 or more and this is a cheap, effective solution I think. In fact, if your wheels have center caps you'll never even know it wasn't original. :biggrin:
Good question, where is the model number located on it? All I see are some warning stickers on the deck.
On a Lawn-Boy, if the model number isn't on the deck, look on the underside of the sheet metal piece near the top of the handle.
Here is a link to a page with lots of links to Lawn-Boy manuals.
That's funny, I just did this same exact thing. I got a free used mower that had a busted wheel. Rather than buying 2 brand new ones, I found 2 used ones on eBay for $22 total including shipping. But I failed to realize they didn't have bearings. Had to buy spacers and some other misc hardware and just used plenty of lithium multi-purpose grease. Plastic hubs riding on a steel axle isn't the best setup but with lube and proper cleaning once a year, I should get the $22 out of these wheels
Back to the OP; I love this thread. I've read every post and will keep up on it. It inspires me to do similar work. Some of these mowers may be considered junkers by others but if it functions and looks good after $30, there's profit to be made as well as the enjoyment and knowledge learned with tinkering.
*EDIT*
Here's a pic of it:
New project; pull string, lubed recoil, removed rust off of a... on Twitpic
New spark plug, new pull cord, new handle, new rear wheels, total carb cleaning with new gaskets & o-rings and new air filter. Surprisingly cold-started with 1 pull the other day in 40F weather, and that was right after I drained the float bowl out!
Sorry if it sounds like I'm trying to hi-jack. I'm just inspired by this thread
However it doesn't idle at a constant rpm yet. It "surges" but only a bit, however I'd like to know if there's any way to make it smoother. Any thoughts?
Wow! You turned 1 mower into 2 plus $85? That's awesome :thumbsup:
you scored big time with those two mowers, both are quality mowers, the Scotts is a heavy duty frame and nice drive system, the Honda should have a composite deck or cast aluminum. both$150.00 plus mowers when ready for sale.
Less than 1 year and the thing is that's not gunk, its rust.
How are you matching the paint? I noticed that your not cleaning over the labels, but the paint looks perfect in the pics. I have a feeling your a painter in you real life I have a troy bilt that needs some red paint from one of those that left their mowers outside
Thanks for the tour!!
Then I got this guy as a partial trade for the red MTD. Same deck as those $10 MTDs. It actually ran just not very well. Cleaning out the fuel tank, carburetor, and installing a new diaphragm solved that problem. Put a new wheel axle in to solve the wobbly rear wheel.
That little guy sold quickly too.
My latest acquisitions is a Craftsman 917-383740 3-in-1, although I can't figure out how it would discharge. This thing was a partial trade on the Weed Eater. Had super loose front wheel adjusters that wouldn't hold the mower up, and carburetor issues.
Funny thing is the inside of the carburetor itself wasn't all that dirty, far less so than some of the others I've worked on, yet it gave me quite a hard time. First it wouldn't get fuel, then it wouldn't stop leaking from the bowl. I also discovered that the oil was really thin and smelled like gas, so the first thing I did was drain it out and put fresh oil in it. Figured out that I hadn't installed the new seat all the way so the flow wouldn't let fuel in, and I hadn't cleaned the gasket surface n the carburetor good enough. It finally seems fixed, no more gas leak and it does get fuel. Will test it tomorrow and see if it can cold start without help from carb spray.
I've fixed the wheels already, and given it new oil, filter, and spark plug, so all it needs now it, assuming it starts good tomorrow, is a good cleaning and a blade sharpening and its ready to go to a new home.
As an aside, I cannot stand the backwards mounted engine. Drives me nuts!
The other new acquisition is this Wheeler Grand Prix WM-20 mulching mower. Not sure exactly how old it is, but what little information I could find puts its build date between 1978 and 1980. Hard to find any more info than that on this thing.
Right now its quite dirty, has too much oil in it, and no spark. I figure the points might need to be cleaned and adjusted, although I'm wondering about upgrading it to a Magnetron, although I'm not sure how one goes about doing that or which kit to get. Does anyone have experience with this?
Once I get it running I think I'll do a full restoration on it and keep it for myself. I've been wanting an older mower to have as part of my permanent fleet, they just seem neat.
What I'm wondering is how do I save the decals and/or get new ones made, especially for the manufacturer labels?
As far as future stuff goes, who knows, but I know for my permanent fleet I want one of those newer Toro Recycler mowers, they just look sleek and cool, and RWD, which means it can powerslide! :laughing:
I'd also like to acquire a 2-Stroke Lawn Boy. They seem quirky and different, kind of a like a Saab.
I'd also like an even older mower than the Wheeler at some point.
I have a Wheeler Grand Prix 22" model WDR 22H Looks like date code 32471 It runs but I need to replace the nylon gear in the vertical pull starter. Also need to find some kind of blade retainer to prevent the blade from just free spinning on the shaft. This mower was originally metallic gold as it's still visible under the stickers. Someone painted it green. It has a B&S 3.5 HP engine model 92908-1427-02 I think it's from the early 70's. Pictures attached
JW
Great job you're doing man, don't ever stop!
I would however like to know how you manage the solid waste from these mowers. Old chassis and blown engine blocks.
They do tend to pile up and become an eyesore.
hanyoukimura, I like how you post the pictures straight into the message rather than as an attachment. If I didn't see the pictures, I wouldn't have spent time reading every one of the postings and then deciding to join this forum. The pictures made all the difference. It's great to see all these old mowers coming back to useful lives. Very interesting to read as well!
I recognized the 18" Toro in one of your postings and my father-in-law has the same one. The reason he can still use it is because it is so light and easy to maneuver (he's almost 80). The mower's vintage is around 1985-1989, he thinks. I mow his lawn occasionally with it and notice that the emissions are a bit worse than typical -- not sure if that's because of the age or condition of the engine. As a result of your postings, I've come to appreciate this and other old machines more. Thanks for this thread and keep up the great work! :thumbsup:
sweet, i actually sold every walk behind mower i had ready for sale last weekend, i need more decks!! so much fun. I also donate my scrap to the local scrap guy, he loves the aluminum decks and when i dismantle the engines so he gets full scrap price for them.
Great looking mower, You have inspired me to take do a little repairing, saving mowers from the trash heap and reselling them. I came across a guy last week trying to get rid of 2 mowers that were not running sitting in his garage-one is a Yard Machines by MTD 11A-504C062 and the other is a Snapper LP21550V both with Briggs and Stratton engines. I gave him $20 for them. Already got the Yard Machines running with a Carb diaphragm/gasket and primer bulb replacement. The Snapper when I took the carb off it is so corroded I am going to have a hard time cleaning it, but that is ok. This past weekend I found 2 mowers (1 Ryobi 961160002 02 with Briggs and Stratton and 1 Yard-Man by MTD with 1P65M0 MTD Engine) and a walk behind Bolens gas edger with Briggs and Stratton for sale for $35. Neither mower was running, got the Yard-Man running with carb clean and the Ryobi will need and carb overhaul (been sitting for awhile). The Bolens edger starts and runs fine but needs the blade angle lever and spring ($12 parts). I think I am off to a good start. I plan on keeping the edger and selling the mowers. This is very enjoyable! Thanks for the updates on all your projects!!!!
Sometimes it would seem like the blade would stop spinning and would clog up, but I guess the reason was because the thing bags really well and fills the big bag up quickly and since the blade is belt driven, it'll slip when there's blockage, I guess. I'm not really family with how these older Toros work.
My one real problem is it that the "C" height on one the rear wheels is worn so it collapses. I have to either have it in B or D, a shame since I usually set my mowers to the middle (C) setting. Since the slot is cast into the deck, I don't see how I could fix it.
It's good to hear from you. :thumbsup:
You've got a couple of gems in your latest haul. The Lawn-Boy (with F-series engine) is a great mower and you can't buy those new anymore. I wouldn't be too quick to let that go.
I also like the old Jake. Those alloy decks last forever... and that's often the first thing to go on a Briggs-powered steel deck mower. If it gets used only on level ground, that mower could last a lifetime with routine maintenance.
The trimmer with the engine on the bottom is interesting but a bad place to put the heavy part => makes it tough to handle.
Thanks!
The Lawn Boy is my coworker's, I'm fixing it for her so I can't keep it. :laughing: But that's ok, I have one (which I still need to work on) in the basement.
I think I will keep the Jacobson, its pretty neat. The person I got these from had a couple other ones I wanted, including an older Snapper. Weighs a ton! Couldn't fit it on that trip, maybe next time if its still there.
A female co-worker with great taste in mowers... nice. :cool2:
Here's a photo of my old Jake. It's got the Briggs engine like yours, alloy deck, and wheels made to last forever (if you keep them greased.)
The engine is pretty well gone since I used it a lot on sloped areas (oil goes to one side... bad :thumbdown: ).
I've got to fix it one of these days since I can't let it go. It was my main mower for many years in Atlanta before I subjected it to the tough terrain of Cleburne County.
They sure don't make them like they used to!
In all honesty my coworker knows nothing about lawn mowers, if I had told her it was dead she was just going to get a cheapo new one. Maybe I should have said it was dead. :tongue:
Oh, maybe you can help me with this one. It's a shroud on an older Briggs Quantum. The recoil spring is broken and I want to replace it but it's not held one with a screw like the newer models. How does it come apart?
This thread is amazing! you have inspired me to start doing the same and I'm already looking around for mowers that people are throwing out. By far my favorite thread on any of the forums I belong too:thumbsup:
A female co-worker with great taste in mowers... nice. :cool2:
Here's a photo of my old Jake. It's got the Briggs engine like yours, alloy deck, and wheels made to last forever (if you keep them greased.)
The engine is pretty well gone since I used it a lot on sloped areas (oil goes to one side... bad :thumbdown: ).
I've got to fix it one of these days since I can't let it go. It was my main mower for many years in Atlanta before I subjected it to the tough terrain of Cleburne County.
Two stroke,
Want me to ship you a toro/Suzuki 2cyl engine for that jake? Then you can do all the hills you want. You cover shipping and I'll seriously do it. Will need an air filter, primer bulb and a blade.
By the way, Lawn Boys like the one I'm working on use 32:1 oil/gas mix right?
I run them at 50:1 since the newer, high-tech oils are better and can protect the engine very well even if diluted more. BTW, running 50:1 seems to reduce crud buildup in the exhaust system.
Don't forget to grease the wheel bearings -- that seems to be the thing that wears out first on the old LBs.
The Lawn-Boy F-series could be the best consumer push mower engine ever made and those alloy decks will last forever -- or until they get hit by something heavy and hard. :confused2:
They both look fine. I hope you told your co-worker and LB owner what a fine machine she owns.
That's a good tip for the Lawn-Boy handle. I've never tried to make one look better and now I'll have to give that a try.
It's prime mowing season down here so I'm putting lots of hours on my mowers.
How is your Suzuki-Toro? You may have updated us but, if so, I forgot... and this thread is HUGE. :laughing:
I've been using mine a lot lately and it always seems ready to tear through tall grass. I like the mower so much that I have a spare one ($20, non-running but good compression, etc.)
I was even tempted recently when I saw a couple of commercial Suzuki-Toros on CraigsList (both for $100 non-running but probably pretty good.) That ad disappeared in a couple of days. I think these mowers are getting a following.
As of tonight, the Toro is gone to a new home.
You sold the four-stroke Toro that you mentioned about two weeks ago -- right? If you sell the Suzuki-Toro, I would hope that you find a special buyer. Not everybody appreciates fine mowers. :laughing:
That painted deck looks great, BTW.
You sold the four-stroke Toro that you mentioned about two weeks ago -- right? If you sell the Suzuki-Toro, I would hope that you find a special buyer. Not everybody appreciates fine mowers. :laughing:
That painted deck looks great, BTW.
I wondered when we would hear from you again Love seeing what your latest projects are. I finally picked up a couple freebies myself, but the spare money just isn't there right now, my wife was off work for 3months after having our second son.
Is that coat hanger wire? :laughing:
When I was a kid (many moons ago) using that (as opposed to getting an actual replacement part :ashamed was the big joke while today the joke is usually duct tape.
...
I have to say, I've never seen such a fast mower. If it were any faster I would have to run to keep up with it!
That makes me think the governor may be set wrong. Is there any way to adjust it? I can't believe it was designed that way.
Anyway -- keep up the good work as this thread inches toward 20k views. :thumbsup:
Gotta say I love following your thread
As for the electric start, it could be the starter or the battery or the wiring. See about jumping from a car battery. If it behaves no different then it's not the battery. The starter can engage but not turn over the engine if it's not pushing the amps through (weak battery, shorting armature in the starter, partial short or weak connections in the wiring). After jumping from a car battery, clean all the battery connections and if that fails, you probably need a new starter.
On the running and stopping after a while, could be it's draining the carb bowl faster than the needle is letting gas in?
I tried with a car battery before I got this little one, but it blew the inline fuse, so I haven't tried since.
Good thinking on the fuel delivery, perhaps the float needs to be adjusted.
Glad you enjoy the thread!
It's probably the starter then if it blew a fuse. Either someone replaced it with a lower amp fuse or the starter is drawing too many amps (shorted armature or dirty contacts/brushes). I had the same exact thing in a opposed twin tractor. Used an ammeter and saw the starter drawing 80+ amps when the engine repair manual said like 20 amps. Replaced the starter and it's a night & day difference.
Float might need to be adjusted, could be dirty seat or slow-flowing fuel line or even a vent in the gas cap not working right.
The fuse that was in there was a 2 amp fuse, that's what I replaced it with. I've no idea what it should be.
What engine is that on the ariens? I've seen a few of them for sale in my area on CL
What was the problem with the electric starting system?
I admire your tenacity in working through that problem. But I think electric starters are a silly thing to add to a push mower. The engine, if tuned properly, should be very easy to start. Also... all that stuff (battery, charging system, starter, etc.) makes the mower heavier and much more complex. I like simplicity. But that's just my opinion.
I'm always happy to see a new post on this thread.
Just wanted to say how much I enjoyed the last hour of reading this entire thread. I learned a lot.
And its great to see another person that really strives to keep their equipment not only running well but looking good. I take a lot of ribbing from people about always washing and waxing my stuff but I enjoy it and enjoy having a clean machine.
That's what I was thinking as I scrolled through your posts. You do beautiful work but all that effort seems to me wasted on low-end mowers.
The Lawn-Boys (and if I were investing a lot of time I'd go pre-1980) are not only "quirky and different" but designed better and made from better materials. The AL/MG alloy decks will last until broken and you don't have to worry about leaving them wet. The Lawn-Boy two-stroke engines are a delight to anyone who admires fine machinery. And they don't make them any more. :wink:
I might add that a really well restored Lawn-Boy can score big bucks on eBay. You might want to check that out. All that effort making a mower look beautiful ( :laughing: which none of mine do :laughing: ) can pay off when you start with something more collectible.
Hanyoukimura, First off--you are a lawn mower god.Well I the Ariens is officially for sale, here's some glamor shots.
Hanyoukimura, First off--you are a lawn mower god.
I never seen someone so dedicated and passionate about fixing lawnmowers.
I come back to the forum just to read the latest update from you. you need to start a blog.:thumbsup: Plus amazing job on the car too!!
With that said. I have a similar lawn mower to the Ariens you repaired.
Mine is a 1999 re-badged as Scotts. It has zero radius front wheels but lacks the electric start.
The mower is a tank. It weighs around 90lbs.
It has fully adjustable self propelled (as you have noticed). It will pull you up the hill. Back wheel drive is wayyyy better than front wheel drive.
I expect you should get around $400.
here is my eye candy. I will own her until the engine blows up. (then I'll need to contact you :laughing: )
.
Well it's been a log time coming, but the other Brute is finally done and ready for a new home. This was the one with a cracked flywheel and sat outside all winter like you see it here:
...
And here it is all done. "New" flywheel, new key, starter rope, dipstick (the original had rust on it), new hubcaps, new rear wheel, new blade, and some serious cleaning inside and out. She's come a long way
....
You do some nice work! :thumbsup:
I check your thread for a new post everyday I was beginning to go through withdrawl
This one looks in great shape. I am amazed how you find several of them....Finally, I squired yet another Ariens, model 911052. This one sees to be in good shape, needs cables and probably a fuel system cleaning.
This one looks in great shape. I am amazed how you find several of them.
Did you ever sell the one with the electric start?
Looks like it is missing the locking pins to keep the wheels from spinning.
Did it come with a side chute? and the plug to keep the grass from heading to the bag.
Sadly the engine looks a tad boring and plain.
I always enjoy reading these updates. :thumbsup:
So the Jacobsen just needs a throttle spring and it will be a good running mower? If so, that sounds good. Do you have an estimate for how old it is? I'm guessing early 1970s -- but that's just a guess. There should be a number on the B&S engine which has a year code -- I think. There have been threads that touched on that.
Keep up the good work.
Yep, it runs great, really happy about that. Which means I'm planning to restore this and keep it for myself.
I have tried to find a number on the engine but I don't see it on the shroud. Where else would it be on these older Briggs? I can't find the year, or really information on it. The model number is 32164.
I don't know but you might try searching for a thread that talks about this. There's no model number on the deck... right?
I have that same craftsman! It has to be one of the fastest self propelled mowers ever.
I have that same craftsman! It has to be one of the fastest self propelled mowers ever.
Yeah, The Ariens can go so fast-- you practically need to jog to keep up with the thing.
Although Parkmower may be saying of all the craftsman he has owned or tested... it was the fastest craftsman he has seen.
Well here it is, finally a proper introduction to my Jacobsen 32164. As of yesterday it is now in working order and successfully cut my front lawn. The engine runs fantastic. Starts in 2-3 pulls when cold and first pull after warmed up. Runs smoothly with no smoke, and is surprisingly quiet. I have yet to figure out where/what the serial number is for the Briggs engine, so for now I shortened the throttle spring that was on it, which was far too long to be useful, and adjusted until I got it functioning like it should. I also had to ad a washer to the front right wheel arm to take out the excessive play, so it would stay locked in place. There was so much play that the arm and wheel would come out of lock and flip all the way over! It's still got play but at least now it stays locked in place.
My biggest problems for this machine will be getting new wheel arms, all of them have a lot of play because the metal tabs that keep them locked in place have worn down, and getting new blade for it. I can't find any information or parts for it anywhere, or even info on how the blades are supposed to be attached. When I pulled them off, the smaller blade was on top of the large one, with the sharp end facing the opposite direction. Makes no sense to me. Is it supposed to be like that? Making the sharp edge face the same direction as the main blade isn't possible because it won't sit level on top of the larger blade, so I put it under the main blade, facing the same way as it. No idea what the correct setup is, but it mower the grass well!
...
That's a fine mower. I'm glad you've got it working.
I'm a little puzzled about the mower having more than one blade (if I'm reading your post correctly). My Jake, which is a few years -- but not too many -- newer that yours, has only one blade -- it's very conventional. Do you have any photos of the underside?
How about a close-up of the wheel adjustment arms -- you said those are worn.
I find it hard to believe that that is an OEM/stock setup. Looks more jimmy-rigged.
Did a Google search yield anything on the model number with the words "two blades"?
It's one blade stacked on another, kind of like what my Honda HRB215 has, but the secondary blade is a lot smaller whereas the Honda's two blades are nearly the same length. Also it was originally mounted above the main blade with the sharp edge facing the opposite direction...which makes no sense.
...
As for the arm, I'll have to take it apart again to get a photo, but where the arm bolts to the deck, t here are two tabs that lock the adjustment lever in place, which locks the whole assembly in place. However the tabs are worn down, so there's a lot of play. This is what the arm looks like mounted on the deck though.
...
Today was a mixed bag. Started off good, I decided to use a spare Quantum I had to fix the black Craftsman. Hooked it all together and it fired right up. Very pleased. Cleaned the deck off and did a quick touch up so it looks halfway decent.
And here it is with my camera.
Not bad, I think. Everything turned out great and it was running good. But this evening I decided to give it another start and it yanked the rope out of my hand. How could that be?
On top of that, the Brute I sold 2 weeks ago came back because it died today while he was mowing
check the flywheel key on the arm jerker as for the other one sounds like dirty carb to me ......Great work man i do the same thing i also re do lawn tractors i should post some pics
I always enjoy seeing other people's work, do it!
I'm guessing flywheel key too, but it just seems weird since it was fine before I removed it from the original deck months ago, and fine the first couple times I ran it earlier today. The blade is definitely in place properly (and its new).
The other one, I did a quick test to replicate the problem...starts right up when cold, then after a few minutes coughs, sputters, then dies. Try to start it right after and nothing. Give it a few minutes and it'll want to start again. I let it run until it died, then quickly attached plug to teh coil and groundedit...no spark. Seems to me the coil is bad. I only have one "extra" I'll have to seal from another engine I'm rebuilding.
yes coils to i forgot duhhhhhhh lol i will post some pics soon ...I also do small engine repair i should start a thread about some of the carnage i have came across this year unreal what some people do to there EQ this year has been very bad for people braking stuff
Annoyingly, both Brutes came back to me this week...both for the same reason..control cables. One would start but not always stay running. Thought it was the coil, but when I didn't get spark after swapping it, I realized the blade brake wasn't being fully released. Then the other one wouldn't start at all after he had unloaded it and unfolded the handle bars. Being the swell guy I am, I've elected to fix both without charging, since they were both just purchased.
...
You should do that even if there was no warranty. It's good for repeat business.
I gather you're doing this your of your garage. Have you thought of setting up a shop and doing it as a real job?
What is that mower in the center? I've never seen anything like that
When I got it:
As of today:
What do you clean your mower deck with to get that shine?
looks great!
What do you clean your mower deck with to get that shine?
looks great!
I start with spraying the deck with Simple Green, letting it soak, then using a pressure washer to clean the muck off. The condition of the paint depends on how much I use the pressure washer. Then I use a brush and car wash to give it a good scrubbing, rinse, and dry. At this point the deck will be clean, but a lot of times there will be dull spots from where gas may have gotten on the deck, gasoline is bad for paint finish, especially single stage paint. At this point I use rubbing compound and a combination of a small buffer pad attached to my drill, and towels for the hard to reach areas. If it were a car or my own mower I would use microfiber towels, but paper towels work fine anything I'm not OCDing on. The rubbing compound will remove scratches that don't go to the metal, oxidation, and bring the shine back to gasoline damaged areas. At this point the finish is looking quite good, far better than it did originally, but sometimes, like with my machines and this mower, I go a step further and use polishing compound, applying and removing the same way. The polishing compound removes fine swirls and really brings the luster to the paint.
If anyone's interested, I could do a comprehensive writeup/how-to on the next mower I clean up.
That red engine cover would look good on my snapper:thumbsup:
Hanyoukimura, look what I found for sale on my local craigslist:wink:
simplicity mower
I'd snap it up, but I have 7 other mowers to get running, and don't have any room for it. Don't know if your anywhere close to where its located, but thought maybe you would be interested since you have one:thumbsup:
Hanyoukimura, look what I found for sale on my local craigslist:wink:
simplicity mower
I'd snap it up, but I have 7 other mowers to get running, and don't have any room for it. Don't know if your anywhere close to where its located, but thought maybe you would be interested since you have one:thumbsup:
A shame there can't be cool mowers like that in my area. Looks like it would be a fun one to fix
Almost 6 hours.
You're in Ohio and you're complaining about a lack of cool mowers? Check out the Lawn-Boy forum on this website.
IMO, Lawn-Boys made before the mid-1980s are the finest mowers ever made and you are very well located to find great old LBs on the cheap or even free. :thumbsup:
A good reason not to design a lawn mower engine air filter that faces forward and opens by tipping down. Can you guess what that reason is?
This may be the obvious answer (as opposed to the correct one :laughing: ) but here goes... Because the cover can open without being noticed by the operator... Then the filter element falls out... But the operator still doesn't notice and keeps mowing with no air filter. :mur:
I had to bump this great thread.
Any new projects lately?
And I wish I was near your location. I was just in the market for a used mower and I would have gladly snapped one of yours up.
Thank you Hanyoukimura. Your thread is awesome.:smile: I've recently taken up the retoration and re-sale of unwanted lawn mowers. Although i don't stop with mowers. It is such a fun affordable hobby and there are limitless projects available. I know you said you use rubbing compound to restore the finish. Do you tape off the decals when re-painting or toughing up? I am contemplating repainting an old rally mower i have but an reluctant to do so as i don't want to lose all of the decals. I would like to at least keep the warning labels.
I read the entire thread and simply loved it. While reading which only took about 3 days I managed to get 3 lawnmowers to repair. I can only hope that they turn out as nice. I am just learning so it will be an experience I am sure. Thanks for the great reading and education. :thumbsup:
All kinds of good stuff today!
I was given a couple of weed wacker by a coworker. A Homelite and a Weed Eater. The Homelite is missing parts and is a pretty cheapo one, so I may just get rid of it on Craigslist. The Weed Eater is a pretty beefy machine and looks to be complete, so I'll try to get it running then sell it.
Then this evening another coworker brought me 4(!) chainsaws to look at. Identical Craftsman and Poulan models, some other brand...I think Jonsered, and an older tank of a chainsaw by John Deer. They want the JD and the Poulan fixed and they'll give me the other two as payment for labor.
Finally when I got home tonight a MTD push mower greeted me from a guy who bought one of the Brute's last year. He'd like to get it running to have a mower at his father's house. Apparently he tried but had problems, so I'll fix it for him. Pictures tomorrow if weather permits.
That's a very good brand. I've never had one but would buy one if I got a good deal. Most chainsaws made for the consumer market these days are so junky that I wouldn't waste my time working on them.
That Yard Machines was the biggest paint in the #@$ I've had to deal with since the Craftsman that kept leaking fuel from the bowl.
This was supposed to be a pretty easy fix. The guy had it running and then it stopped. Come to find out he had run it out of gas! So I thought this would be an easy service. Well it also wouldn't prime. removed the primer bracket and replaced the gasket which was in poor shape. Nothing. Removed it again and tried doubling up the gasket. Nothing. Removed it again and inspected the carburetor. Seemed fine. Put the bracket back on again, but accidentally cross threaded and stripped the threads of one of the flange bold holes!
Left it alone and came back to it today. Took the the bracket off again and removed the primer bulb. The bulb was actually fine, but the screen behind it was clogged. Cleaned it out, took a carburetor from a parts engine and put it back together. Still nothing! Tried one more time doubling up the gaskets...finally it worked! About time. Replaced the incorrect spark plug with the proper one, sharpened, balanced, and correctly mounted the blade (it was mounted backwards), cleaned it up and changed the oil.
Ready to go back to work and get the F&*% out of my sight! :laughing:
Big news today is my latest score. Until recently I didn't know Briggs and Stratton made a 2-stroke engine. Well I acquired one recently and got it running. However It's gas tank is broken and I've been in need of this very rare and apparently very expensive (+/- $100) tank for this apparently very rare engine. Well now I have not one, but 2 of them!
Happened to be browsing CL for cheap mowers when a Sarlo commercial mower caught my eye with the very engine I just acquired.
...
What luck! I offered him $35 for it to which he agreed and just got it home a little while ago. The engine had bad gas and a broken pull cord but its not seized. I'm going to commandeer its fuel tank for the other one and put it in storage while keeping an eye for another tank...then I'll have 2! :biggrin:
As for the deck, from the above picture I had no idea what to do with it since its an attachment with only 2 wheels. Thought I would end up having to toss it since I'd have no use for it, which would be a shame since looked extremely solid and well made. However upon further inspection it appears I could mount rear wheels and handlebars to it and make a push mower out of it.
Weather permitting, tomorrow I plan to remove the Tecumseh from the 18" Toro and install the 2-cycle Briggs with its "new" tank on. Can't wait!
Thanks for the update and photo of the Briggs two-cycle. It's amazing that you found two of those in such a short time period. More close-up photos of that engine would be interesting... please.
That deck sure looks sturdy but also heavy -- is it steel? That support tubing looks like steel. Is the mower very heavy?
Next time I get a chance I'll need to find the deck's original red chute and repaint the muffler guard so it looks nicer.
If there's one "problem" with this hobby its that some of these machines I can't bring myself to get rid of it.
The mowers I have claimed for my own so far are:
Toro 20684
This 2-stroke Briggs Toro
Brute
Honda HRB215
Simplicity
Lawn Boy
Poulan Pro
Craftman
Jacobsen
Oh boy!
Thanks for the photos of the Briggs-Toro. It sounds like a great engine -- and also rare! :thumbsup:
What model Lawn-Boy do you have? You probably said back on page xx of this huge thread -- but I'd appreciate it if you just told me.
BTW, I haven't bought any mowers lately but I have been doing a lot of mowing. :laughing:
I'm actually not sure. It doesn't have any ID tag on it. It's a 5.0 "Gold Series Commercial grade engine"
Here it is from the night I got it.
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Funny thing is that besides the Weed Eater I kept all these mowers (that's the Toro that now has the Briggs on it). :laughing:
I have yet to do anything with the Lawn Boy. It's in the basement. It has compression. The only thing I did was put some fuel mix in it last year and it proceeded to leak it out. Haven't got around to tinkering with it yet. One of these days!
give the old gold series a tune up,clean up and it will out mow and cut the brute.
A dealer I have bben doing business for over 20 plus years,I asked him about the Briggs 2 stroke and he said that they were only out for a few years.They stopped making because of not passing emissions.
I've had to buy some on slow weeks, but it usually works out even if just a little. I don't waste time on Tecumseh carbs, I also have plenty of spares so I usually just throw on a good one, or one that looks good but hopefully needing a primer and I've gotten a lot out the door that way. I find it odd though that some seem to have the intake and exhaust valves changed around, judging by whether it's a top or bottom mount carb or muffler. 25 seems good for any Toro deck, even if re-engined. I saw one recently with a 10 HP tractor engine, electric start and all.
Hanyoukimura, what do you use to restore the paint on your mower decks? It makes them look new! I am interested in trying it myself.
You do good work. Gives me hope for my Dad's mower. A 6 or 7 year old Toro Recycler mower. Once I had a good loaner mower for him I took his mower home so I could start repairs. Seeing your hard work fixing and restoring mowers makes me hope I can get his mower back in good usable shape.
Nice. Hope my Lawn Boy and Toro look as good.
Nice job on the Ariens. Really looks sharp. Never heard of a Grand Prix mower before your thread but the paint job looks really sharp.
Looking good...what's your plans for the snapper??
Nice FREE snapper! Looks like maybe a '79?
And is self propelled?
I may be a snapper freak but I'm a fan of any old mower that looks brand new. Great work sir!
The Grand Prix is looking great! When I worked on mowers before (around '01), I had a mower with that same deck, but I think it was a different brand - IIRC, it was a Wheeler. Seemed to be a simple, sturdy machine.
Interestingly, one of these actually came up on my local craigslist the other day. Looks pretty good, though a bit pricey at 125 bucks:
-Robert
Deciding what to keep can be tough. The dime a dozen MTD and Murray types are normally easy enough to want to sell, but older ones have a neat factor to them.
Sweet, Quantums are one of my favorite engines, so easy to troubleshoot. Looks like that one should be an easy sell.
The particular style of engine on that mower is especially nice. Since the cover over the crank can be turned, the engine can be mounted forward, sideways or backward without looking wrong. On lots of Briggs engines, the blower housing is contoured to point forwards, and it's also a particular color. This engine is black, so it can be mounted on almost any mower without color problems.
Nice mower!
Just saying I love what your doing. 1 hobby is enough for a man. If more than 1, the enjoyment is not nearly as much.
Just saying I love what your doing. 1 hobby is enough for a man. If more than 1, the enjoyment is not nearly as much.
That cleaned up very nicely. Looks like an AYP manufactured deck? I had to sell one today without a bag for less than I wanted to, but there are several types for the same style of deck and I couldn't wait forever to find one.
Can't go wrong with that trade. Last year I traded a seed spreader, electric whipper snipper, and garden shears for a 3KW generator. Those AYP decks are very common here too, but most of them have rusted away to nothing. The more expensive versions that have been garage kept tend to survive, but 90% of them are biodegrading. I think I've actually scrapped a half dozen of them in the past week and still have 2 or 3 in my basket case pile left to scrap. Most of them came with bags, but none fit the YardPro deck.
I can't wait to see the Snapper!
Nice work though. some of those look really amazing after you are done.
Just saying I love what your doing. 1 hobby is enough for a man. If more than 1, the enjoyment is not nearly as much.
What did you do to get that carb so clean?
Looks nice!
Bagging must be more popular in your area than mulching. In my area, I hardly ever see anyone using a walk-behind mower with a bagger.
Thursday was a good day. I got the MTD finished and returned to its owner. Its a chocke system not a primer system, so it takes several pulls to get going when cold, but after that it'll start first pull and it runs great. All of the cables are in good shape and the drive system works too. The whole mower is in pretty good shape actually. Cleaned it up a bit before the sendoff.
I also finally got the Yard Man running. Narrowed the problem down to the carburetor after swapping the Craftsman's (which originally belonged to the Yard Man), after several attempts, I swapped out carburetors with another, and a few more cleanings later it was finally running. Took a while but now both it and the Craftsman start first pull and run really well. Just need to put the plastic shroud back on it, clean it up, and it'll be ready to go.
I was originally going to sell the Husqvarna for only $100 due to the nonfunctional drive system, but I listed it for $134 just to see if I got any bites. Within a few hours I had a hit, and its currently pending sale on Sunday.
I have owned one of those engines before with the choke system, and it always started on the first pull. I ended up converting it to primer bulb to do away with the choke cable. It still starts on the first pull. I don't think that cold start problem you've got is the choke's fault.
In addition, you could save yourself time and money by learning to make gaskets. The Advance Auto Parts in Athol carries gasket material for $6 per roll. Out of a roll you can probably make 50-150 gaskets.
A roll of material looks like this:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31CGHS9D8BL._SX425_.jpg
You will need scissors and a hole punch like this one:
http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a471/IronBoss23/HolePunch2_zps2cb6177f.jpg
Here is the process:
2. Using scissors, cut out a square of gasket material the right size for your gasket.
3. Apply a light, even coating of motor oil to one of the gasket mating surfaces (e.g. the throttle end of the carburetor.)
3. Press the square of gasket material down onto the oil-covered mating surface. Make sure that you press down wherever the gasket contacts the surface.
4. Remove the gasket material. You should now have a stamp of the mating surface on the material. If the smaller holes are distorted or don't show up, you had too much oil on the mating surface. If the stamp is too light to see, you didn't have enough. Be patient, it can take a while to get this right.
5. Punch out the small holes with your hole punch. You can cut the big ones out with a utility knife, punch around their perimeters with your hole punch, or try to cut them out with scissors. Any of these ways will work, but I tend to use the first method.
I have made lots of gaskets with this method. They aren't as exact as the professional ones, but they cost less and work just as good.
If you can't follow my instructions, just tell me and I will post pictures.
I have owned one of those engines before with the choke system, and it always started on the first pull. I ended up converting it to primer bulb to do away with the choke cable. It still starts on the first pull. I don't think that cold start problem you've got is the choke's fault.
In addition, you could save yourself time and money by learning to make gaskets. The Advance Auto Parts in Athol carries gasket material for $6 per roll. Out of a roll you can probably make 50-150 gaskets.
A roll of material looks like this:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31CGHS9D8BL._SX425_.jpg
You will need scissors and a hole punch like this one:
http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a471/IronBoss23/HolePunch2_zps2cb6177f.jpg
Here is the process:
2. Using scissors, cut out a square of gasket material the right size for your gasket.
3. Apply a light, even coating of motor oil to one of the gasket mating surfaces (e.g. the throttle end of the carburetor.)
3. Press the square of gasket material down onto the oil-covered mating surface. Make sure that you press down wherever the gasket contacts the surface.
4. Remove the gasket material. You should now have a stamp of the mating surface on the material. If the smaller holes are distorted or don't show up, you had too much oil on the mating surface. If the stamp is too light to see, you didn't have enough. Be patient, it can take a while to get this right.
5. Punch out the small holes with your hole punch. You can cut the big ones out with a utility knife, punch around their perimeters with your hole punch, or try to cut them out with scissors. Any of these ways will work, but I tend to use the first method.
I have made lots of gaskets with this method. They aren't as exact as the professional ones, but they cost less and work just as good.
If you can't follow my instructions, just tell me and I will post pictures.
My four-stroke engines with chokes always start on the first pull. On the other hand, I have had endless trouble trying to start Tecumseh engines with primer bulbs.
Keep up the good work. I always read this thread first when I see there's been an update. 78k page views isn't a record though, the "Name that mower game" thread has 255k views! :shocked:
On the topic of throttle shafts, the part number is 696565. But it costs around $10 to get one! That's ridiculous for such a small part. I would send you a few of mine, but I might need them myself. :smile: I'll keep looking though, I might be able to find you some. :wink: Where are you buying most of your parts (blades, floats, gaskets, cables, etc.)?
That's a nice Toro you've got there! :licking: I wish I could find one of those or an old Snapper in good condition.
I guess 255k is the number to beat then! :laughing:
I found the part number last night, it is ridiculous for a small piece of plastic.
I buy my parts mostly from my local small engine dealer, although sometimes also from Amazon, eBay, and Jackssmallengines depending on price and what I need/how much I plan to buy at once.
This will make Toro #4 in my current inventory. One is an 18" deck with no engine right now and the other two are two cycle monsters I've kept for myself :biggrin: One's powered by a Suzuki, the other a Briggs. When I get to it this deck will need some help, but it may be salvageable. That reminds me, I have an old SNapper to work on too!
In my experience, the dealers are usually over priced on parts. I can get just about anything cheaper online. If you need something ASAP, the dealer is the place to go. If not, get it online.
Check out Mowers4u.com, they have some really good parts prices and shipping is $5.95 per order. Don't just put the part number in their search box, go to "Part Look-up" on the toolbar and put in your model. Or put in the brand and the part number. For whatever reason, the search box on the home page doesn't actually search the whole website and you have to pull up the diagram for your model to find some of the less common parts. I know their website isn't the best, but the parts prices are worth it! :biggrin:
Here's my list of parts sources for a typical push mower with a Briggs Quantum engine:
Primer bulb, air filter gasket, air filter - eBay
Carb kit (#K11-LMR) and float (#75-570) - Mowers4u
Starter rope - eBay
Spark plug - O'Reilly Auto Parts
Most gaskets - I make them myself out of Fel-Pro 3157 gasket material, bought at O'Reilly Auto Parts
Blade - Mowers4u
All Cables - I make them myself
Paint - Home Depot
Wheels - eBay
I can show you how to make engine brake cables and drive cables for about $5 each if you're interested.
I will start a new thread to document the prcess when I've got some spare time. :thumbsup:
I make the cable ends by drilling hole in the ends of nails, sticking the cables in, and crimping them. Then I bend the nails into a "U" shape and hook them up to the mower. Not as easy as soldering, but they're a lot easier to remove. :laughing:
Things have been much slower this year than last. By now I would have fixed a dozen or so mower, but I just haven't had the time.
That being said I finished the Murray and I recently not one but five mowers, one of which is a real treat.
First up, the Murray:
The new acquisitions are a Lawn Boy, a Poulan Pro (identical to one I had before), a Self Propelled Craftsman and some small push mower, either a Poulan Weed Eater or Craftsman. All this for only $9!
The Craftsman is likely a mess with some telltale cobbing going on, including a sheet metal screw through one of the shroud mounts.
The silver mower pissed gas out of its rotted fuel line and the deck is cracked at the back left wheel, hence the problem there.
The Poulan I'm not sure but the zone control cable is broken to start.
The Lawn Boy is is a newer model with ReadyStart. Since its in the best shape I fiddled with it first today while dinner was grilling. Unsurprisingly it had bad case.
However the carburetor is otherwise in excellent shape. Cleaned it up and put the carb back on, will clean the tank and try starting it tomorrow.
Also found the chute door was bent on once side.
It's plastic so I've propped something against it to see if it bends and stays back in place.
Finally we come to the main event. Found this for sale on CL for $10. Owner said it was his father's who bought it new then stored it in the basement in the 90's. Said he wanted to give it to a good home.
Its complete, pretty much all original, and in awesome shape especially considering its age. This is my new favorite machine right now and I will most certainly be keeping it. My biggest problem is deciding if I want to restore it or get it running, clean it up, and leave it be otherwise.
Not dead! I just didn't get much done this year. i probably only worked 3 of them the entire year. I actually have 4 or 5 lined up for warmer weather.
Last year I got a late start and really April-June is when these things move. Coupled that with the drought and there just wasn't much supply or demand.
I also spent more time going places and doing things, which ate up time I would have spent doing things...but the trade-off was worth it I think.
I do have a few winter projects. I'll share them when I get a chance to take photos.
Athol is in Maryland.Enjoy your photos, what type camera are you using ?? Also ... where is Athol ..?? I think your "projects" turn out to
be fantastic , and show a good deal of dedication .... Boobala
Enjoy your photos, what type camera are you using ?? Also ... where is Athol ..?? I think your "projects" turn out to
be fantastic , and show a good deal of dedication .... Boobala
Athol is in Maryland.
Hanyoukimura, I don't know if you already noticed this, but here you go:
http://www.lawnworld.com/learning-center/what-is-lawn-mowing/
Does that picture look familiar? :biggrin:
First sale of the season. It was actually the Murray leftover from last year.
Had a guy knock on my door looking for one. He actually bought one from me five years ago and it finally gave up the ghost. He was so pleased with it he came over looking for another from me. Love repeat business!
The little Craftsman is basically done now. Used a bit of hot glue to make the wrap on the handle nice and secure. Cordless hot glue gun is the best invention ever. Considering it was almost a write-off, its come along way.
Runs great, though I think the fuel isn't shutting off all the way as the gasket. I'll need to check the seat and possible replace the float to be safe. I have plenty of plastic ones.
I've been tackling this late model Craftsman a little bit between the seemingly unending showery days.
It was outside for a few days, in in that time there was so much dirt on the deck that vegetation actually started growing on it! I usually wash the mowers after I've gotten them working, but with this one I actually washed it before I started to get all of the dirt off the deck. This too had a bolt sheered off in the cylinder head. I had a spare head, from the Brute mower all those years back. So I got a head gasket and swapped heads. Removing the shroud cover and shroud revealed that another bolt was sheered off at the back on the exhaust side. I ended up drilling it and then retapping it. I also replaced the start rope.
Today I had more time, and it was dry out, so work continued. This mower, despite being not very old, has been through the ringer. Its absolutely filthy. Taking the shroud off revealed a nasty and just so much dirt and crud all over the engine. I had to remove the muffler and clean all that out so the ReadyStart mechanism would move freely again. and also not catch fire if and when this thing ran again.
Which one did he buy originally? What happened to it? Did he sell it back to you? Tell us more! :laughing::wink:
Are you going to do any paint work on it? Muffler could use a coat of header paint to make it look new. :biggrin:
That black Craftsman is very similar to one I was given a few years back. Guy put it out at the curb, but nobody would take it because the yards in his area are too big for a push mower!
Hanyoukimura has created a tutorial on the paint restoration process, including what rubbing compound he uses.http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/showthread.php/32696-How-to-Restore-Fuel-Stained-Faded-Paint
New guy here. I've read through this site for a few years on and off and finally decided to join. I recently acquired an old lawnmower with a 1969 92908 B&S with very low hours. It was (is) my grandfathers that had been sitting about 10 years. Outside. I got it home, put some gas in it and gave it a shot of carb cleaner in the carb intake and first pull off it went. I have no idea what brand the mower body is but it's in pretty nice shape. Cleaned the points and readjusted them, new carb diaphragm and air filter element, plug and oil change, new governor spring too and it runs like new. I can see crosshatching on the cylinder wall when I look through the sparkplug hole with a flash light. Sat all that time and didn't even smoke when it started.
Would anyone be able to determine the brand of this thing by the shape of the body? I don't see any tags or stickers on the mower deck anywhere although I need to wash it so maybe one will pop up.
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I'm not so good with identifying older models besides pretty distinct ones like Toros and Lawn Boys, but that's a cool old mower you've got! When you get it cleaned up, post some more photos it!
New guy here. I've read through this site for a few years on and off and finally decided to join. I recently acquired an old lawnmower with a 1969 92908 B&S with very low hours. It was (is) my grandfathers that had been sitting about 10 years. Outside. I got it home, put some gas in it and gave it a shot of carb cleaner in the carb intake and first pull off it went. I have no idea what brand the mower body is but it's in pretty nice shape. Cleaned the points and readjusted them, new carb diaphragm and air filter element, plug and oil change, new governor spring too and it runs like new. I can see crosshatching on the cylinder wall when I look through the sparkplug hole with a flash light. Sat all that time and didn't even smoke when it started.
Would anyone be able to determine the brand of this thing by the shape of the body? I don't see any tags or stickers on the mower deck anywhere although I need to wash it so maybe one will pop up.
View attachment 35882
By the looks of the wheel adjusters and the handle brackets. The mower was built by one of several companies using those common parts. Two of the largest manufacturers were the Allied Lawnmower Manufacturers located in Pulaski TN, and the other was the Southland Mower Company located in Selma Alabama. Most all of those manufacturers sold through independent hardware stores. I remember The Allied model numbers were #270 for the 20" mower and #272 for the 22" mower.
I saw an update to this thread and couldn't believe my eyes. It's been a while! Are you planning on getting back into the mower repairs on a regular basis, or just selling the remaining ones off?
Have you encountered any of the newer Toros with the Kohler engines? They are everywhere down here.
I actually haven't worked on a single Kohler engine. :laughing: