Murray 425007x92a won't start

[Nissannismoz]

It just won't start!
I've replaced the starter, solenoid, battery, and now key switch!
I can cross it over at the solenoid and it'll start and run just fine.
What else can I check? It has never started with the key as long as I've had it and I want to finally fix it, I hate crossing it over like that.
Thanks in advance.

 

[Boobala]

It just won't start!
I've replaced the starter, solenoid, battery, and now key switch!
I can cross it over at the solenoid and it'll start and run just fine.
What else can I check? It has never started with the key as long as I've had it and I want to finally fix it, I hate crossing it over like that.
Thanks in advance.

HERE's your wiring diagram, check out your harness, make sure you have the CORRECT ignition switch for YOUR model,and see what you come up with, could be a bad safety switch, or even a loose wire, DOUBLE check ALL your ground wires, make sure all wires are snug, and no cuts in the insulation, there are Youtube videos about how to check your safety switches if you're not sure how to do that, .......... let us know what's happening,

...... click to enlarge, click again to enlarge more, ..print it, save it !! ..:thumbsup:

ADDED INFO : .. here's a Parts Manual for your machine, it has a much larger wiring diagram in it ! ..

http://www.arkansas-ope.com/Murray_Rider_425007X92A.pdf

 

[bertsmobile1]

Under the right hand foot board is the brake switch
On the right side of the turret is the PTO switch.

The power to the solenoid trigger goes key switch, pto switch brake switch solenoid.

Murray use a funny plastic spring loaded retainer for the switch which wear allowing the switch to move just enough not to make contact or in some cases fall right out;
The switches are about $ 5 to $ 10 each. make sure you get the correct one.
They are colour coded

 

[Nissannismoz]

Thanks for the info, I'll do some investigating tomorrow and see what I can find out!
Also, I went ahead and bought some headlight bulbs for it, to find they don't work. That explains why when I did a voltage test at the headlight socket, there was only .03v. That was with the old key switch, I haven't checked voltage with the new key switch, but has to be the same, since there's no headlights.

I do know there's a 6 cable plug running to a switch on the PTO. That was unplugged, so I plugged it back in and made no difference. There's a 4 cable plug on that same harness that's unplugged in that area that I don't know what goes to, my first assumption was it went to some sort of extra/upgrade or something.
I'll check the wiring diagram and dig deeper tomorrow and report back.
Thank you again!

 

[bertsmobile1]

Thanks for the info, I'll do some investigating tomorrow and see what I can find out!
Also, I went ahead and bought some headlight bulbs for it, to find they don't work. That explains why when I did a voltage test at the headlight socket, there was only .03v. That was with the old key switch, I haven't checked voltage with the new key switch, but has to be the same, since there's no headlights.

I do know there's a 6 cable plug running to a switch on the PTO. That was unplugged, so I plugged it back in and made no difference. There's a 4 cable plug on that same harness that's unplugged in that area that I don't know what goes to, my first assumption was it went to some sort of extra/upgrade or something.
I'll check the wiring diagram and dig deeper tomorrow and report back.
Thank you again!

If you have problems reading &understanding wiring diagrams just give us hoi and we will be happy to explain things.

On the diagram Boo posted look at the Stator and note the black wire is AC output.
This goes to your headlights so they will only work while the engine is running and the stator is generating AC .
That is why there is only .03V at the lights.

Good thing is Murray do not change the colours of the wires at every plug & switch.
You need to check the Orange wire for 12 V at the back of the ignition switch and at both sides of the PTO and Brake switches.
Remember it is only momentary and will only be 12 V while the switch is in the sprig loaded START position.

BE CAREFUL , the yellow wire is a ground wire and if you accidentially send 12 V down it for even the briefest period of time it will fry the control chip inside the magneto $$$$$$.

 

[BlazNT]

You have a fuse in the trigger wire for the solenoid. Find it and make sure it is good. Remove it and put it back in to make sure it is making a good connection.

 

[Boobala]

I have 3 Murray mowers ( had 3 front engine riders) as Bert said the BRAKE safety, is under the RIGHT foot floorboard, the PTO ( blade engage switch) is inside the dash console ( hard to see without a light ) attached to the lever mechanism, the neutral switch is located UNDER the BATTERY BOX, ( must be removed to see it well, or remove LEFT rear wheel, it's located on shift lever bracket, the seat switch is under the lift-up seat, but has nothing to do with the starting circuit operater MUST be in seat... Blade engage lever in blades off pos., and clutch pedal pressed down, trans should be in NEUTRAL also, ..IF all switches are wired in the system.....

 

[bertsmobile1]

I have 3 Murray mowers ( had 3 front engine riders) as Bert said the BRAKE safety, is under the RIGHT foot floorboard, the PTO ( blade engage switch) is inside the dash console ( hard to see without a light ) attached to the lever mechanism, the neutral switch is located UNDER the BATTERY BOX, ( must be removed to see it well, or remove LEFT rear wheel, it's located on shift lever bracket, the seat switch is under the lift-up seat, but has nothing to do with the starting circuit operater MUST be in seat... Blade engage lever in blades off pos., and clutch pedal pressed down, trans should be in NEUTRAL also, ..IF all switches are wired in the system.....

View attachment 36545

Don;t confuse things Boo,
The problem is failure to crank, not failure to start.
The Neutral & seat switches are not in the cranking circuit.

 

[Nissannismoz]

I have 3 Murray mowers ( had 3 front engine riders) as Bert said the BRAKE safety, is under the RIGHT foot floorboard, the PTO ( blade engage switch) is inside the dash console ( hard to see without a light ) attached to the lever mechanism, the neutral switch is located UNDER the BATTERY BOX, ( must be removed to see it well, or remove LEFT rear wheel, it's located on shift lever bracket, the seat switch is under the lift-up seat, but has nothing to do with the starting circuit operater MUST be in seat... Blade engage lever in blades off pos., and clutch pedal pressed down, trans should be in NEUTRAL also, ..IF all switches are wired in the system.....

View attachment 36545

Just wanted to say a huge thank you!! It was indeed the clutch switch on the right side under the PTO arm.
That's where that 4 prong plug went! I cleaned the terminals, plugged it in, and it started right up!
Now I just have to fix the flooding issue and I'll be good to go.
Thank you again, I really appreciate the friendliness and the excellent info you guys have provided! I have printed both the wiring diagram and parts list just so I have them!

 

[Boobala]

View attachment 36571

Just wanted to say a huge thank you!! It was indeed the clutch switch on the right side under the PTO arm.
That's where that 4 prong plug went! I cleaned the terminals, plugged it in, and it started right up!
Now I just have to fix the flooding issue and I'll be good to go.
Thank you again, I really appreciate the friendliness and the excellent info you guys have provided! I have printed both the wiring diagram and parts list just so I have them!

Sounds like MAYBE a carb issue, Holler if you need help again, while you're at it, you might want to remove the engine shroud and clean-out between the cylinder cooling fins, just a thought !