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Muffler won't come off! 60102 0391

#1

silver1

silver1

The muffler was toast. Only thing holding it together was the rust. I moved the lock nut, but the pipe will not move. I hit it with PB blaster, but no help.
I can't get a pipe wrench to hold.

I do not have a heat source. Any Help?
silver1


#2

reynoldston

reynoldston

The only thing I can think of is cut it out if you can't get a good bite on it with a pipe wrench.


#3

RoperGuy

RoperGuy

Could drill a hole right thro the muffler and use a bar or screwdriver for leverage


#4

silver1

silver1

RoperGuy said:
Could drill a hole right thro the muffler and use a bar or screwdriver for leverage
Click to expand...

Drilled the hole, used long punch threw hole, beat with hammer, no go!:frown: I guess I need a machine shop.:thumbdown:
Thanks for the info.

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#5

P

possum

I always wonder where the PB Blaster crowd is when this happens . Its supposed to break free anything. I would dress up the mangled lock nut a bit and find a socket to fit it. Then I would start putting pressure on the nipple until it twisted off the lock nut or the pipe nipple or both. Then I would get a chisel and cut the nipple from the female threads. The best chisel to use is the old star chisels. But any old punch can be ground off the an angle to do the same thing.


#6

reynoldston

reynoldston

I guess you don't like my idea. cut it out. If it was in my shop that would surly be my next step. Do you own a saws-all?


#7

silver1

silver1

reynoldston said:
I guess you don't like my idea. cut it out. If it was in my shop that would surly be my next step. Do you own a saws-all?
Click to expand...

I cut the rusted muffler off leaving the neck. I used channel locks, but no help.
I drilled a hole and used a 8" punch and a hammer, still no help.

No saws-all.


#8

silver1

silver1

possum said:
I always wonder where the PB Blaster crowd is when this happens . Its supposed to break free anything. I would dress up the mangled lock nut a bit and find a socket to fit it. Then I would start putting pressure on the nipple until it twisted off the lock nut or the pipe nipple or both. Then I would get a chisel and cut the nipple from the female threads. The best chisel to use is the old star chisels. But any old punch can be ground off the an angle to do the same thing.
Click to expand...

The lock nut now spins free. It was mo match for the stuck pipe. I can move it back and forth with a screwdriver. My pipe wrench just will not grip (?):tongue:
I'll keep trying.

Thanks


#9

M

motoman

Since I am not familiar with the exhaust pipe retention...Is this the same as old Brit motorcycles where a threaded locknut end presses on a formed flange of the exhaust pipe and holds it to the head?? If so with the lock ring gone there is a smooth pipe remnant inside a threaded lockring shell still holding the pipe to the head? So corroded threads are still the main problem?

If this blather is somewhat correct ... Turn machine so exhaust is up. Apply drops of (your favorite) liquid wrench to thread area and let it sit . Now I think of an "inside pipe wrench" which I believe Harbor Freight sells. They are toothed, expanding metal rings made to bite in a counter clockwise direction. But IF one fits you may find it might loosen the pipe so it spins inside the threaded locknut shell, but won't come out. Then perhaps force something down between the loosened pipe and the threaded stub and pry it into a smaller dia so it can be removed. Then work on the threaded shell with the inside pipe removal wrench.

All armchair theory and can be ignored at any time.:laughing:

Edit: HF does not show the wrenchs, but General Tool and Rigid have them out to 2.0" One youtube dude used an impact wrench on the tool.


#10

M

mechanic mark

silver1 said:
The lock nut now spins free. It was mo match for the stuck pipe. I can move it back and forth with a screwdriver. My pipe wrench just will not grip (?):tongue:
I'll keep trying.

Thanks
Click to expand...

What size pipe wrench are you using? You need more leverage, try a 24" pipe wrench or larger, maybe you have a neighbor who is a plumber, mechanic, etc. or you may try renting one from tool rental or auto parts store. Remember SAFETY FIRST, when it breaks loose try to keep your footing & not fall. Be sure to put antiseize compound on threads of new muffler and just snug it up, do not over tighten.


#11

B

bertsmobile1

mechanic mark said:
What size pipe wrench are you using? You need more leverage, try a 24" pipe wrench or larger, maybe you have a neighbor who is a plumber, mechanic, etc. or you may try renting one from tool rental or auto parts store. Remember SAFETY FIRST, when it breaks loose try to keep your footing & not fall. Be sure to put antiseize compound on threads of new muffler and just snug it up, do not over tighten.
Click to expand...


I am guessing that you are using a lock jaw or slip jaw type of pipe wrench.
A pair of Stilsons will not slip on a round surface.
The harder you push the tighter they grip.
Usually if the item will not move, you end up bending the handle, but the jaws do not let go.


#12

reynoldston

reynoldston

bertsmobile1 said:
I am guessing that you are using a lock jaw or slip jaw type of pipe wrench.
A pair of Stilsons will not slip on a round surface.
The harder you push the tighter they grip.
Usually if the item will not move, you end up bending the handle, but the jaws do not let go.
Click to expand...

If it was me I would just use a good old fashion pipe wrench, but each his own on that. I don't understand why your pipe wrench doesn't grip the pipe? Are the jaws bad? The tighter you pull the tighter the grip.


#13

silver1

silver1

motoman said:
Since I am not familiar with the exhaust pipe retention...Is this the same as old Brit motorcycles where a threaded locknut end presses on a formed flange of the exhaust pipe and holds it to the head?? If so with the lock ring gone there is a smooth pipe remnant inside a threaded lockring shell still holding the pipe to the head? So corroded threads are still the main problem?

If this blather is somewhat correct ... Turn machine so exhaust is up. Apply drops of (your favorite) liquid wrench to thread area and let it sit . Now I think of an "inside pipe wrench" which I believe Harbor Freight sells. They are toothed, expanding metal rings made to bite in a counter clockwise direction. But IF one fits you may find it might loosen the pipe so it spins inside the threaded locknut shell, but won't come out. Then perhaps force something down between the loosened pipe and the threaded stub and pry it into a smaller dia so it can be removed. Then work on the threaded shell with the inside pipe removal wrench.

All armchair theory and can be ignored at any time.:laughing:

Edit: HF does not show the wrenchs, but General Tool and Rigid have them out to 2.0" One youtube dude used an impact wrench on the tool.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the idea. We do have HF.


#14

silver1

silver1

mechanic mark said:
What size pipe wrench are you using? You need more leverage, try a 24" pipe wrench or larger, maybe you have a neighbor who is a plumber, mechanic, etc. or you may try renting one from tool rental or auto parts store. Remember SAFETY FIRST, when it breaks loose try to keep your footing & not fall. Be sure to put antiseize compound on threads of new muffler and just snug it up, do not over tighten.
Click to expand...

That is the problem with this old muffler It is screwed in to the hilt. The locking ring moved like should. I never put them that far in! That is what the lock is for.
I did get the motor to start. Not that loud.


#15

RoperGuy

RoperGuy

If you really can't get her out do you have the clearance to just weld on a new flange?


#16

reynoldston

reynoldston

Sound to me like you should bring it to a repair shop.


#17

silver1

silver1

reynoldston said:
Sound to me like you should bring it to a repair shop.
Click to expand...

Me too!


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