MTD RH 115/76 Workshop Manual & cuts out when reversing

[JBASport]

Hi, I wonder if anyone can help. I have an RH 115/76 and tried to get a manual on the MTD website. When I entetered all the relevant inforformation (Model & Serial No.) I just get a 'cannot find' result. I suspect that it mat be the age of the machine and manuals maybe not available for older machines. Anybody know where I can find one?
Also, when I engage reverse either with blades engaged or not, the engine cuts out, any thoughts? Many thanks, Terry

 

[bertsmobile1]

MTD put out a service manual series that covered all ( hopefully ) of their old gear then discontinued providing any support
They are called "The Must Have Manual of Outdoor Power Equipment"
There are 4 volumes according to the type of equipment & yours is Book 2 " Rear Engine Riders & Lawn Tractors "
I eventually found one on the WWW but they are also available to be purchased
Would I be right in guessing that you have a rear engine rider with an 11.5 Hp engine and a 76cm deck ?
This would make it an export model as US & Canada model will be called 115/30 as their deck sizes are in inches

 

[JBASport]

MTD put out a service manual series that covered all ( hopefully ) of their old gear then discontinued providing any support
They are called "The Must Have Manual of Outdoor Power Equipment"
There are 4 volumes according to the type of equipment & yours is Book 2 " Rear Engine Riders & Lawn Tractors "
I eventually found one on the WWW but they are also available to be purchased
Would I be right in guessing that you have a rear engine rider with an 11.5 Hp engine and a 76cm deck ?
This would make it an export model as US & Canada model will be called 115/30 as their deck sizes are in inches

Hi Bert, Many thanks. Its a front engine model with a 12.5hp Tecumseh motor. I will see if I can get a copy of Book 2 as you suggest. I wonder if there is a way to tension the drive and cutting deck belts other than the tension springs. I feel the belt slipping at times and not sure if I can take up some of the slack before I need to buy new belts? Thanks for your help, your knowledge is invaluable.

 

[bertsmobile1]

On older mowers wit lots of hours on them the V pulleys wear so the belt sits deeper thus the belt slips
I regularly fir slightly smaller belts to compensate for this as engine pulleys in particular are stupid prices down here
On the same note have a close look at your pulleys
If they are polished bright & shinny right at the bottom of the V then either the pulley or the belt is worn out

 

[JBASport]

On older mowers wit lots of hours on them the V pulleys wear so the belt sits deeper thus the belt slips
I regularly fir slightly smaller belts to compensate for this as engine pulleys in particular are stupid prices down here
On the same note have a close look at your pulleys
If they are polished bright & shinny right at the bottom of the V then either the pulley or the belt is worn out

Thanks for that I will check them. Thanks again for your help.

 

[JBASport]

Thanks for that I will check them. Thanks again for your help.

Hi, out of interest, when you say you often fit a smaller belt to compensate for worn pulleys, what would you recommend as a rule of thumb? 1/4", 1/2" etc shorter? Thanks, Terry

 

[bertsmobile1]

No rule of thumb
Started doing it ages ago
had a mower come in that the dealer wanted to charge the customer $ 450 .
Customer was a pensioner
Fitted the "correct" belt which slipped so I brought a couple more that were shorter
Nice things about OEM spec belts, you get a lot of close sizes so I just keep on trying one till the blades worked and the belt did not burn when the blades were turned off .

 

[JBASport]

That makes sense and certainly give that a go. Terry

 

[bertsmobile1]

If you have to buy them then use plain v belts as they are a lot cheaper
Do not run them for long enough to get hot because when they get hot they get stickly
So slip one on try the blades on-off-on-off a few times watching for the blades not fully stopping or belt burning on the engine pulley
You will need to bypass the seat switch to do this or need a helper .
When you find the size that works best use the "belts by length " tables to see what OEM kevlar belt is the closest to the size that works
Also check the blade brakes can actually stop the pulleys turning
In particularly the one on the right side ( push side ) of the engine pulley as this is the one that causes the deck belt to go slack around the engine pulley

I had an MTD Black that drove me mad for years as it burned belts left right & centre tilI twigged the left brake worked well but the right did not
So the left pulley stops turning which causes the left run to the engine to go tight while the right was loose so the belt burned

 

[JBASport]

If you have to buy them then use plain v belts as they are a lot cheaper
Do not run them for long enough to get hot because when they get hot they get stickly
So slip one on try the blades on-off-on-off a few times watching for the blades not fully stopping or belt burning on the engine pulley
You will need to bypass the seat switch to do this or need a helper .
When you find the size that works best use the "belts by length " tables to see what OEM kevlar belt is the closest to the size that works
Also check the blade brakes can actually stop the pulleys turning
In particularly the one on the right side ( push side ) of the engine pulley as this is the one that causes the deck belt to go slack around the engine pulley

I had an MTD Black that drove me mad for years as it burned belts left right & centre tilI twigged the left brake worked well but the right did not
So the left pulley stops turning which causes the left run to the engine to go tight while the right was loose so the belt burned

Great summary and such a help, thanks so much. Take care, Terry