MTD- Carburetor, Wheel, and PTO Problems "The Blue Beast"

[V1P3R]

Hello! This is my first post and likely not my last (unless I am driven out of town)! I live by the motto, "Why pay for something when you can DO IT YOURSELF?" Admittedly, I am new lawn mower repair...

I purchased a very neglected and heavily rusted old blue 16HP 42" cut MTD Yard Machine (The Blue Beast) last season and it promptly broke down. It even melted the solenoid due to a serious short. I have since built it a battery box, rewired it, changed the belt, drilled a new battery ground (to avoid shorts), replaced the battery, cleaned the air filter, replaced the gas filter, sanded off the frame rust, renewed several bolts, ran a little B-12/chemtool through it, changed the oil, and even got the headlights to work. I am happy to say that she is now alive and mowing! However, I still have a few problems. Perhaps each should be its own post?? So, I will start with Steering, Wheels, and Turning.

1.- WHEELS/Turning/Steering-

My wheels sort of point off in different directions.
My right front tire sags inward at the top and rubs against the mower. At times both seem to sag inward. Most noted on the RIGHT.
The right tire/wheel wobbles if I push the top of the wheel out and the bottom of the wheel in a back and forth motion with my hands.
Both seem to wobble as I drive and I cannot mow in a straight line.
It is hard to turn left or right and she turns on a DOLLAR. Heck, maybe safer to say it turns on a 10 Dollar Bill.
Even slight divots, dips, or small yard debris pushes the front wheels outward almost to 90 degrees.
There is a lot of play in the steering wheel before it actually turns the wheels.
I have to really pull/fight to steer to the left or right to turn. However, it turns slightly/gently to the left or right without difficulty.
When I turn heavily when the PTO is engaged the deck dips while turning and mows unevenly until I straighten back out some.

I assume changing some wheel bearings is in order. Any input or specifics on parts would be appreciated. It doesn't look as bad in pics. Maybe I am crazy.

 

[Fish]

The rod that goes across from wheel to wheel is supposed to be straight as well. You ought to plan on replacing all of the bushings, they probably are all needed and they are plastic and not very expensive.

Post the numbers off of the tag under/behind the seat.

 

[ILENGINE]

I think you are looking at worn wheel bearings, bent steering arms from the steering spindles to the sector gear, worn axle bushings where the steering spindle attaches at the axle, and possibly a worn axle pivot which is where the axle moves up and down to ride over bumps and such.

 

[V1P3R]

I found this number underneath the seat- 1183A AC

ILENGINE and Fish,

Is this something I can do? I have a garage, a supportive wife, and a growing expanse of tools in my chest. If so, any suggestions on parts, tools, or how to approach this repair? I would like to fix this one up and use it while I repair the other mower to donate to some needy folks who have a less than dependable push mower for 2-3 acres. Thanks!


VIPER

 

[Fish]

Sure, it isn't that hard, or we couldn't fix them either!!!!

Take a pic of that tag under the seat.,also of the gearing at the bottom of the steering wheel, up where the knuckles are behind
the front wheels, etc.

Look for a serial number mtd tag with a model number

 

[Carscw]

You can go to mtdparts.com and pull up your model and see how it all goes together.

MTD steering is very easy to work on and most repair shops ( not a dealer ) will have the bushings you will need. The new ones will be brass. The one that is giving you all the play in the steering wheel is called a hex flange will be two of them on the steering wheel shaft.

If you want to spend a few extra bucks you can get bearings for the front wheels.

When you put it all back together you want to front wheels to toe out about half a inch.

For your tie rod ends you can get them at any shop or napa or tractor supply

(( cowboy up and get over it ))

 

[V1P3R]

Sure, it isn't that hard, or we couldn't fix them either!!!!

Take a pic of that tag under the seat.,also of the gearing at the bottom of the steering wheel, up where the knuckles are behind
the front wheels, etc.

Look for a serial number mtd tag with a model number

Thank you all for the helpful input! And I found this under the seat. The model number is 1183A AC

 

[Fish]

Unfortunately your model number is likely faded away, but with some more pics, we might get it close enough.

Also put up the full model numbers off of the engine would help, also a pic of the shifter area.

 

[V1P3R]

Unfortunately your model number is likely faded away, but with some more pics, we might get it close enough.

Also put up the full model numbers off of the engine would help, also a pic of the shifter area.

I see what you are talking about. There are two sets of very faded numbers under the seat. When I hold my tongue just right I can read most of them clearly. 13606750062 (The 2nd to the last 0 could be an 8, 9, or 6 as it is scuffed). That series of numbers is followed by a large space and the following- 3D626020011 (The 1st 6 could be a D, 8, or 9 and the 11 is badly scuffed and hard to read). The rod going between both front wheels is bent like Cupid's bow as you can see in the pics. Even the front pulley has evidence of a serious impact which may help explain why the PTO doesn't fully disengage (which will be my next thread for help!). I also included the motor serial number and a picture of the gearing/cogs at the base of the steering column. Again, I want to thank you all for your help and input!

 

[Fish]

I am going to go with model numbers 135O675G062 , there are many MTD lookups on the web.