Export thread

Hello! This is my first post and likely not my last (unless I am driven out of town)! I live by the motto, "Why pay for something when you can DO IT YOURSELF?" Admittedly, I am new lawn mower repair...

I purchased a very neglected and heavily rusted old blue 16HP 42" cut MTD Yard Machine (The Blue Beast) last season and it promptly broke down. It even melted the solenoid due to a serious short. I have since built it a battery box, rewired it, changed the belt, drilled a new battery ground (to avoid shorts), replaced the battery, cleaned the air filter, replaced the gas filter, sanded off the frame rust, renewed several bolts, ran a little B-12/chemtool through it, changed the oil, and even got the headlights to work. I am happy to say that she is now alive and mowing! However, I still have a few problems. Perhaps each should be its own post?? So, I will start with Steering, Wheels, and Turning.

1.- WHEELS/Turning/Steering-

My wheels sort of point off in different directions.
My right front tire sags inward at the top and rubs against the mower. At times both seem to sag inward. Most noted on the RIGHT.
The right tire/wheel wobbles if I push the top of the wheel out and the bottom of the wheel in a back and forth motion with my hands.
Both seem to wobble as I drive and I cannot mow in a straight line.
It is hard to turn left or right and she turns on a DOLLAR. Heck, maybe safer to say it turns on a 10 Dollar Bill.
Even slight divots, dips, or small yard debris pushes the front wheels outward almost to 90 degrees.
There is a lot of play in the steering wheel before it actually turns the wheels.
I have to really pull/fight to steer to the left or right to turn. However, it turns slightly/gently to the left or right without difficulty.
When I turn heavily when the PTO is engaged the deck dips while turning and mows unevenly until I straighten back out some.

I assume changing some wheel bearings is in order. Any input or specifics on parts would be appreciated. It doesn't look as bad in pics. Maybe I am crazy.

The rod that goes across from wheel to wheel is supposed to be straight as well. You ought to plan on replacing all of the bushings, they probably are all needed and they are plastic and not very expensive.

Post the numbers off of the tag under/behind the seat.

I think you are looking at worn wheel bearings, bent steering arms from the steering spindles to the sector gear, worn axle bushings where the steering spindle attaches at the axle, and possibly a worn axle pivot which is where the axle moves up and down to ride over bumps and such.

I found this number underneath the seat- 1183A AC

ILENGINE and Fish,

Is this something I can do? I have a garage, a supportive wife, and a growing expanse of tools in my chest. If so, any suggestions on parts, tools, or how to approach this repair? I would like to fix this one up and use it while I repair the other mower to donate to some needy folks who have a less than dependable push mower for 2-3 acres. Thanks!


VIPER

Sure, it isn't that hard, or we couldn't fix them either!!!!

Take a pic of that tag under the seat.,also of the gearing at the bottom of the steering wheel, up where the knuckles are behind
the front wheels, etc.

Look for a serial number mtd tag with a model number

You can go to mtdparts.com and pull up your model and see how it all goes together.

MTD steering is very easy to work on and most repair shops ( not a dealer ) will have the bushings you will need. The new ones will be brass. The one that is giving you all the play in the steering wheel is called a hex flange will be two of them on the steering wheel shaft.

If you want to spend a few extra bucks you can get bearings for the front wheels.

When you put it all back together you want to front wheels to toe out about half a inch.

For your tie rod ends you can get them at any shop or napa or tractor supply

(( cowboy up and get over it ))

Fish said:

Sure, it isn't that hard, or we couldn't fix them either!!!!

Take a pic of that tag under the seat.,also of the gearing at the bottom of the steering wheel, up where the knuckles are behind
the front wheels, etc.

Look for a serial number mtd tag with a model number

Click to expand...

Thank you all for the helpful input! And I found this under the seat. The model number is 1183A AC

Unfortunately your model number is likely faded away, but with some more pics, we might get it close enough.

Also put up the full model numbers off of the engine would help, also a pic of the shifter area.

Fish said:

Unfortunately your model number is likely faded away, but with some more pics, we might get it close enough.

Also put up the full model numbers off of the engine would help, also a pic of the shifter area.

Click to expand...

I see what you are talking about. There are two sets of very faded numbers under the seat. When I hold my tongue just right I can read most of them clearly. 13606750062 (The 2nd to the last 0 could be an 8, 9, or 6 as it is scuffed). That series of numbers is followed by a large space and the following- 3D626020011 (The 1st 6 could be a D, 8, or 9 and the 11 is badly scuffed and hard to read). The rod going between both front wheels is bent like Cupid's bow as you can see in the pics. Even the front pulley has evidence of a serious impact which may help explain why the PTO doesn't fully disengage (which will be my next thread for help!). I also included the motor serial number and a picture of the gearing/cogs at the base of the steering column. Again, I want to thank you all for your help and input!

I am going to go with model numbers 135O675G062 , there are many MTD lookups on the web.

Fish said:

I am going to go with model numbers 135O675G062 , there are many MTD lookups on the web.

Click to expand...

MTD Model Number- 135O675G062 (1995) looks to be a match. I found exploded views with parts for order from Partstree.com. I would like to be more confident with regards to what I need to purchase. The TIE ROD is definitely bent and the right wheel bearing is definitely bad. I assume I will need the adjustable Tie Rod versus the non-adjustable version.

Also, the PTO also doesn't fully disengage. Do I need to replace the two brake discs to repair the issue?

Yea there are brake pads that are supposed to stop the pullies - usually get worn and do nothing. Are you sure the belt is fully disengaged? Take a paint pen or piece of chalk and mark a square on the outer edge of the belt - if it truley is disengaged it may just be slowly spinning around and should be able to see the square - if its not it will be whizzing by. Does this have a separate handle for deck height and PTO engage? if it does find some tall grass and just lower the deck into it. the grass should stop the blades from free turning. if it actually cuts the grass then something else is amiss.

yea if you can see bent parts you can whack em back straight enough (its a riding mower maybe 7mph tops - not like your family car...) sometimes its amazing how a part can get bent but not bent back so then you need to buy parts.

check the front axle for cracks - seen it a few times and will cause wacky steering issues.

plastic steering bushings are known to fail (cheap manufacturers wanting the biggest profit margin - mower breaks in 5 years most people buy a new one = mor emoney to manufacturer) so if you can get brass grease them well and install them. its probably a good 75% of your steering problem right there.

Ive seen plenty worse in the steering gear and sector but shine a light down there and slowly rock the steering wheel back and forth. there shouldn't be any play in the steering shaft or see the sector gear flex around. (theres going to be some play in the meshing of the gears - its fine tho)

wheel bearings (or usually bushings) are made out of a softer metal than the hardened spindle so you may need to replace the wheel bushings - once again be sure to grease them well (hence they have a grease fitting on them but noone ever seems to grease em)

Thanks guys!

An update- The pin sheared on the right tire so I added a thicker washer and a shiny new pin to the right tire while I wait for parts. I was mowing fine until I was mowing against my house (driving in a straight line, btw). The left tire suddenly grabbed the side of the house and turned almost 90 degrees to the left while leaving the right tire pointing straight ahead. Now they are out of alignment. I assume I can tweak them back. I also noticed a new pattern in my whole lawn. Seems my mower or my deck is tilted and not level leaving sections of grass cut to the quick.

MowGuy- The mower has only one lever for the PTO. When you lower the deck it engages the PTO. It seems to vary in speed when disengaged. It ranges from disengaged at random to slight-moderate spinning.

Ahh i see, yea wheels can be bent back straight.

I think the mower self levels, but check for any hanging brackets and such holding the deck to the frame, if a pin sheared off or bracket is off it will cause uneven deck height and will allow the deck to sag possibly causing your partially spinning blades.