Mower wont start

[Forest#2]

If you come back with more engine questions you need to post the engine model, type and code.
The mechanic you let work on it THAT HAS BEEN IN BUSINESS A LONG TIME that could not do you or the engine any good is ????????????????.
At least his labor price was right.
I would not take it back that direction.

I would install couple new correct type spark plugs and if it's still operates rough try removing the large bolt at the bottom of the carb bowl on the left side to drain the bowl and if you have any low pressure shop air direct about 20 psi into the drain bowl while the bowl drain is removed. Sometimes you may have to give it a prime of gas into the carb throat after draining.
Them Briggs twin L-head engines and carbs are easy to work on.

 

[hlw49]

I never have taken the carb off one of these engines to clean the carb. Just take the top off and you can clean it without taking it off. But be careful if it is a fixed jet on the idle circuit you can blow the welch plug out of the front of the carb. You can tell if it is a fixed jet if there is now adjusting screw on the front of the carb under the fuel pump.

 

[Forest#2]

I never have taken the carb off one of these engines to clean the carb. Just take the top off and you can clean it without taking it off. But be careful if it is a fixed jet on the idle circuit you can blow the welch plug out of the front of the carb. You can tell if it is a fixed jet if there is now adjusting screw on the front of the carb under the fuel pump.

AND
after taking out the 4 screws in the top cover peck on the top cover with a screwdriver handle and then the gasket has to stay on the top cover as the cover is removed. With care you can use a small putty knife or a long pocket knife plate and gently go round the edge and work the gasket loose to save the gasket. Kits are priced reasonable. I use vaseline or oil coating on the gasket when going back and this keep it from sticking if needs removed again later. The carb can be removed from the manifold quite easily using a 1/4 inch socket set and take the carb to the work bench. More user friendly on the workbench if the fuel pump on the front of the carb needs a kit.

 

[mshearne]

If you come back with more engine questions you need to post the engine model, type and code.
The mechanic you let work on it THAT HAS BEEN IN BUSINESS A LONG TIME that could not do you or the engine any good is ????????????????.
At least his labor price was right.
I would not take it back that direction.

I would install couple new correct type spark plugs and if it's still operates rough try removing the large bolt at the bottom of the carb bowl on the left side to drain the bowl and if you have any low pressure shop air direct about 20 psi into the drain bowl while the bowl drain is removed. Sometimes you may have to give it a prime of gas into the carb throat after draining.
Them Briggs twin L-head engines and carbs are easy to work on.

I think this mechanic gave up on the mower before he even started just from how bad it looks. It really looks like something you would find on a trash heap. But it works, and I can't afford to buy another one.
The fuel that came out of the line when I disconnected it from the carb was brown. There is a small filter just upline which I will replace at the same time I put some new plugs in. The mower seemed to be lacking in power, but the grass I'm cutting is 18" Bahia and Gordo. I hate Bahia. And I'm sure the blades are dull. The bearings on the spindles are mostly original and could use replacing (I'll do that when I have free time - ha).
A lot of good advice, thanks