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I have a ridint mower, model 46102X6B manufactured date is 00066
The mower sat idle for about a year parked under my carport. My neighbor's cows took care of the lawn while the fence was down. Fence fixed, I started using the mower again after replacing the gas, spark plug, and cleaning the carb.
Hired hand came and tinkered with it because it was not starting, got it to run and used it for about 20 minutes. It died and he cranked and cranked and cranked and........ Well, it was several minutes before I could stop him. Replaced the starter and the solenoid. New battery.
Now I cant even get it to turn over.
Didn't have time to tinker so I took it to a repairman who has been in business a long time.
He checked the mower out and couldn't identify the problem. Compression test showed 80psi and 100psi in cylindars. Not great but it should start. The coils seem to be good also - there is fire at the plug. So, he called a couple of times to discuss it with me and discontinued working on it. No charge.
I need help with this community. Do you have any ideas about where I might look to find the problem? Loose wire? Safety switch? Ground or short?
Thank you

If it came to me with the conditions you describe I would be removing and rebuilding the carb.

Any good tech would know and have a good set non invasive tests to determine where the problem is the that old Briggs Vertical opposed engine if it is the original engine. The very first test would tell if was ignition or fuel related, then he should been able follow thru with more non invasive tests. Kinda sound the guy had no idea how to trouble an engine.

Yes the compression is a little low but that might be that the valves needs adjusting. Not simple task but doable.

Good 'ol Murray! Take the carb off and clean 'ur good. I like those opposed twins...sound great. If you have spark, will it fire on carb cleaner or starting fluid?

kbowley said:

Good 'ol Murray! Take the carb off and clean 'ur good. I like those opposed twins...sound great. If you have spark, will it fire on carb cleaner or starting fluid?

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I would clean it prior to removing the carb. Try to keep any and all grit out of the engine.

I would start out with fresh non E-10 fuel. Drain all the old out AT the carb. Probably full of water. Watch for good flow AT the carb inlet. Report back.

Sounds like you have spark.

So now it won't physically turn over at all? Clarify does the motor turn over or not please. Could be a stuck open carb needle and seat.

Pull the oil dip stick. Smell for fuel. Should smell like oil only. Gas like smell report back here.

slomo said:

I would start out with fresh non E-10 fuel. Drain all the old out AT the carb. Probably full of water. Watch for good flow AT the carb inlet. Report back.

Sounds like you have spark.

So now it won't physically turn over at all? Clarify does the motor turn over or not please. Could be a stuck open carb needle and seat.

Pull the oil dip stick. Smell for fuel. Should smell like oil only. Gas like smell report back here.

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Good point, please clarify "won't turn over". Do you mean the engine is cranking but won't fire, or the starter isn't turning the engine when you turn the key to the start position? If the former, have you pulled a plug to see if it is wet with gas, meaning it's flooded, or dry, meaning it is not getting gas? Thanks.

kbowley said:

Good 'ol Murray! Take the carb off and clean 'ur good. I like those opposed twins...sound great. If you have spark, will it fire on carb cleaner or starting fluid?

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The man who worked on it tried carb cleaner but couldn't get it to start. I'll get a can of starter spray and try a couple of times and referesh my memory of the specifics of what it is doing and what it is not doing.

0k. I don't have any starter fluid or carb cleaner. So, I turned the starter and the engine just cranked and cranked but no start.
I disconnected the fuel line from the carb and let the gas pour out till it stopped. not long, maybe a few seconds. Then tried to start and it cranked a couple of times and then started. Ran like crap. Remembered that I had the choke full on. closed the choke and it ran less crappy. Turned the throttle up and now it sounds like a mower again.
Gonna run and cut some grass while its working. I'll update later..

mshearne said:

0k. I don't have any starter fluid or carb cleaner. So, I turned the starter and the engine just cranked and cranked but no start.
I disconnected the fuel line from the carb and let the gas pour out till it stopped. not long, maybe a few seconds. Then tried to start and it cranked a couple of times and then started. Ran like crap. Remembered that I had the choke full on. closed the choke and it ran less crappy. Turned the throttle up and now it sounds like a mower again.
Gonna run and cut some grass while its working. I'll update later..

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Drain the tank AT the carb inlet as instructed. Put fresh gas in. Mow away.

Glad to hear you are close to getting her rollin'.

If you come back with more engine questions you need to post the engine model, type and code.
The mechanic you let work on it THAT HAS BEEN IN BUSINESS A LONG TIME that could not do you or the engine any good is ????????????????.
At least his labor price was right.
I would not take it back that direction.

I would install couple new correct type spark plugs and if it's still operates rough try removing the large bolt at the bottom of the carb bowl on the left side to drain the bowl and if you have any low pressure shop air direct about 20 psi into the drain bowl while the bowl drain is removed. Sometimes you may have to give it a prime of gas into the carb throat after draining.
Them Briggs twin L-head engines and carbs are easy to work on.

I never have taken the carb off one of these engines to clean the carb. Just take the top off and you can clean it without taking it off. But be careful if it is a fixed jet on the idle circuit you can blow the welch plug out of the front of the carb. You can tell if it is a fixed jet if there is now adjusting screw on the front of the carb under the fuel pump.

hlw49 said:

I never have taken the carb off one of these engines to clean the carb. Just take the top off and you can clean it without taking it off. But be careful if it is a fixed jet on the idle circuit you can blow the welch plug out of the front of the carb. You can tell if it is a fixed jet if there is now adjusting screw on the front of the carb under the fuel pump.

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AND
after taking out the 4 screws in the top cover peck on the top cover with a screwdriver handle and then the gasket has to stay on the top cover as the cover is removed. With care you can use a small putty knife or a long pocket knife plate and gently go round the edge and work the gasket loose to save the gasket. Kits are priced reasonable. I use vaseline or oil coating on the gasket when going back and this keep it from sticking if needs removed again later. The carb can be removed from the manifold quite easily using a 1/4 inch socket set and take the carb to the work bench. More user friendly on the workbench if the fuel pump on the front of the carb needs a kit.

Forest#2 said:

If you come back with more engine questions you need to post the engine model, type and code.
The mechanic you let work on it THAT HAS BEEN IN BUSINESS A LONG TIME that could not do you or the engine any good is ????????????????.
At least his labor price was right.
I would not take it back that direction.

I would install couple new correct type spark plugs and if it's still operates rough try removing the large bolt at the bottom of the carb bowl on the left side to drain the bowl and if you have any low pressure shop air direct about 20 psi into the drain bowl while the bowl drain is removed. Sometimes you may have to give it a prime of gas into the carb throat after draining.
Them Briggs twin L-head engines and carbs are easy to work on.

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I think this mechanic gave up on the mower before he even started just from how bad it looks. It really looks like something you would find on a trash heap. But it works, and I can't afford to buy another one.
The fuel that came out of the line when I disconnected it from the carb was brown. There is a small filter just upline which I will replace at the same time I put some new plugs in. The mower seemed to be lacking in power, but the grass I'm cutting is 18" Bahia and Gordo. I hate Bahia. And I'm sure the blades are dull. The bearings on the spindles are mostly original and could use replacing (I'll do that when I have free time - ha).
A lot of good advice, thanks