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Mower starts but does not continue to run... VIDEO UPDATE last page

#1

C

Clippy

Got this old 70's mower from a neighbor last week. Cleaned her carbs up and blew 12 years of leaves, fluff, and acorns out of the engine. Got a new spark plug but has no spark. I tried grounding the plug against the frame, got nothing. Thinking it might be the ignition coil because the cord coming off of the coil is pretty cut up. I want to order a new coil but I have no clue what to order. I've looked these model numbers up on the B&S website and I don't get much. Was hoping someone out there knew a thing or two about this "Wildcat" mower and could share their wisdom. Thanks.

FIGURED OUT MODEL #. 190702-0800-99 thanks StarTech!

More help needed: Scroll down please!

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#2

StarTech

StarTech

Use 190702-0800-99.


#3

C

Clippy

StarTech said:
Use 190702-0800-99.
Click to expand...
Fantastic. Thanks. Hoping it really is the coil. At least now I can put the order in.


#4

C

Clippy

So I got my ignition coil in, and the old one is out. I have a question about hooking up the ground wire. When I removed the original coil, a cord that was connected to under the flywheel was removed as well. Do I need to remove the flywheel and put this new cord in there, or can I splice it into the ground cord that I circled in the picture? I know one of the ground wires gets screwed right to the mounting point for the coil. I'm not sure how to remove the flywheel on this old dog, but if I have to I will. For now it is sitting in the shed with some Marvel Mystery Oil in the tank. Hoping I didn't screw myself by removing this old wire, thanks again!

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#5

StarTech

StarTech

Appears you got an after market points coil so yes the flywheel got to come off so you rewire the points to the coil connection.

Personally I would have went with the newer Magnetron coil and got away from the points and condenser system.


#6

Fish

Fish

He should have asked on a Lawnmower Forum.


#7

C

Clippy

StarTech said:
Appears you got an after market points coil so yes the flywheel got to come off so you rewire the points to the coil connection.

Personally I would have went with the newer Magnetron coil and got away from the points and condenser system.
Click to expand...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWOQZJC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details This is the coil I ended up with. It seems to be similar to the one I had but it has this little extra "block" next to it. There's definitely a slight difference in appearance.

Comparison:
https://imgur.com/a/klqSwYA


#8

C

Clippy

Fish said:
He should have asked on a Lawnmower Forum.
Click to expand...
That's why I'm here. Hoping to be pointed in the right direction. I didn't even know you could upgrade these things that sounds like something I would like to do.


#9

StarTech

StarTech

Clippy said:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWOQZJC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details This is the coil I ended up with. It seems to be similar to the one I had but it has this little extra "block" next to it. There's definitely a slight difference in appearance.

Comparison:
https://imgur.com/a/klqSwYA
Click to expand...
Yes that the point coil. Briggs actually no longer sell them but there are after markets out there. The Magnetron coil that replaces this is PN 398811 and there are lot of them in after market too.

The configuration looks like this. You will not need the points and condenser just the kill wire. You only need the points coil if you have a cast iron cylinder block. cast iron inner don't count as a cast iron cylinder block. Plenty of these Magnetron coils in the scrap piles as they the same one is use on the 7-16 hp engines. With 330000 in there up to 21 hp Intek engines.
1634773533165.png


#10

Fish

Fish

Clippy said:
That's why I'm here. Hoping to be pointed in the right direction. I didn't even know you could upgrade these things that sounds like something I would like to do.
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I know. I was being sarcastic.
The Briggs engines had points until up to 1983 or so, and I always recommend putting the newer style coil on, and just clipping the wire to the points, and leaving the flywheel alone.


#11

I

ILENGINE

Fish said:
I know. I was being sarcastic.
The Briggs engines had points until up to 1983 or so, and I always recommend putting the newer style coil on, and just clipping the wire to the points, and leaving the flywheel alone.
Click to expand...
The last half a dozen that I tried a points replacement on due to no spark, had to end up putting a module on. Seems like the points/condenser didn't fail it was the module itself.


#12

C

Clippy

You guys are awesome. I have Prime so I can return that coil I bought tomorrow. I ordered the magnetron one that StarTech showed me. Makes my life a hell of a lot easier. Thanks again both of you have been very helpful.


#13

R

Richard Milhous

StarTech said:
...You only need the points coil if you have a cast iron cylinder block.
Click to expand...

Why's that? I suppose the magnet might produce a little eddy current in the block, but the coil isn't grounded when running.


#14

StarTech

StarTech

Richard Milhous said:
Why's that? I suppose the magnet might produce a little eddy current in the block, but the coil isn't grounded when running.
Click to expand...
It because most old cast iron were positive ground and the Magnetron coil are negative ground. This cause the flywheel magnets to be reversed on the cast iron systems. Years ago there were places that did re-magnetization of the flywheel magnet to change them to the correct polarity. Most those places are long gone now.


#15

R

Richard Milhous

StarTech said:
It because most old cast iron were positive ground and the Magnetron coil are negative ground. This cause the flywheel magnets to be reversed on the cast iron systems. Years ago there were places that did re-magnetization of the flywheel magnet to change them to the correct polarity. Most those places are long gone now.
Click to expand...

Thank you, and Holy Crap! I thought positive ground systems were a pre-WWII thing.


#16

B

bertsmobile1

Richard Milhous said:
Thank you, and Holy Crap! I thought positive ground systems were a pre-WWII thing.
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BSA, Triumph, Norton, Enfield all remained + ground till the factories closed down
BSA started - ground, then went + ground
It was misguided ideal about galvanic protection . works on steel ship hulls but not on motor vehicles .


#17

R

Richard Milhous

bertsmobile1 said:
BSA, Triumph, Norton, Enfield all remained + ground till the factories closed down
BSA started - ground, then went + ground
It was misguided ideal about galvanic protection . works on steel ship hulls but not on motor vehicles .
Click to expand...

Why wouldn't it work on motor vehicles?


#18

B

bertsmobile1

Not enough electrolyte ( water) to complete the circuit and what is there is usually rain so not as conductive as sea water.


#19

R

Richard Milhous

bertsmobile1 said:
Not enough electrolyte ( water) to complete the circuit and what is there is usually rain so not as conductive as sea water.
Click to expand...

Ok, I *think* there should still be some protection while there is voltage on the system. Nothing I found about galvanic protection was entirely clear, but it seems what inhibits corrosion is the local electrical field - i.e., the density of electric charge. This would depend on voltage and capacitance, not current flow which would be wasted energy.

If I'm right, the reason it doesn't do much for cars is because the body has very low capacitance (and the voltage is rather low). What increases the capacitance and therefore surface charge density in a marine or soil environment is the dielectric effect of water - water has an unbelievably high dielectric constant and could multiply the effective capacitance by as much as 80.

Any electrical engineers willing to tell me I'm wrong?


#20

C

Clippy

Even with my new coil installed, I don't seem to be getting any spark. Still troubleshooting.


#21

Fish

Fish

Clippy said:
Even with my new coil installed, I don't seem to be getting any spark. Still troubleshooting.
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What coil did you put on it?


#22

Fish

Fish

And, how are you checking for spark?


#23

C

Clippy

Fish said:
What coil did you put on it?
Click to expand...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038U3LZU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details Here is the coil I installed.

I've been checking for spark by simply grounding the spark plug tip against the engine. I was thinking about getting a test light.

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#24

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

With that coil, with No kill wire plugged to it, it should spark for close to eternity.


#25

C

Clippy

Scrubcadet10 said:
With that coil, with No kill wire plugged to it, it should spark for close to eternity.
Click to expand...
Still doesn't seem to do anything with the kill wire unplugged. Think they shipped me a dead unit?


#26

Scrubcadet10

Scrubcadet10

Clippy said:
Still doesn't seem to do anything with the kill wire unplugged. Think they shipped me a dead unit?
Click to expand...
where did you buy it from?


#27

B

bertsmobile1

Two things to check
1) check the kill wire for voltage
IT should either be open circuit or ground if it has ever had voltage on it then the coil is toast and the wiring problem must be fixed first
2) are you sure you installed it right way round the trigger chip is polarity sensitive .


#28

C

Clippy

UPDATE: I bought a new coil from a lawnmower shop and it turned over! The same coil worked. They must have shipped me a dead one. Now I just need to figure out why it shuts off after about 3 seconds. My guess is its not getting fuel or the carbs need adjusting.


#29

C

Clippy

This butterfly valve is the culprit. It stays open, and when I close it about half way it runs great. I think I hooked up my carb linkage backwards. I'll update tomorrow. I'm just really happy I got it started tonight!

Carb linkage is set up correctly, need to figure out what's going on with Choke plate

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#30

Fish

Fish

There should be an adjustment screw on the bottom of the carb, turn it to the left as it is running to see if it runs better.


#31

C

Clippy

VIDEO UPDATE. Here's where I am currently with this mower.


#32

S

sugartooth

Clippy said:
VIDEO UPDATE. Here's where I am currently with this mower. find a manual or take it to a pro
Click to expand...


#33

S

sugartooth

Find a manual or take it to a pro. You need a little knowledge for even the simplest machine.


#34

S

slomo

Revs sound waaay too high for one. Going to stretch the rod out LOL. Put a tach on the ignition wire. Keep her under 3600 revs fully warmed up, no load.

Carb linkage not adjusted proper? Dirty carb and fuel tank?


#35

C

Clippy

slomo said:
Revs sound waaay too high for one. Going to stretch the rod out LOL. Put a tach on the ignition wire. Keep her under 3600 revs fully warmed up, no load.

Carb linkage not adjusted proper? Dirty carb and fuel tank?
Click to expand...
Cleaned the crab pretty good, first thing I did when I got it. I keep thinking it might be the linkage. Fuel tank is brand new so it can't be that. Maybe I will double check the carb.


#36

M

MParr



#37

H

hlw49

Clippy said:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038U3LZU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details Here is the coil I installed.

I've been checking for spark by simply grounding the spark plug tip against the engine. I was thinking about getting a test light.
Click to expand...
Make sure it is mounted right. It should say this side up or something like that.


#38

C

Clippy

Good news! Turns out my engine wasn't getting enough fuel with the new tank I rigged up. I opened the outlet of the fuel tank a bit more and it runs!! I took it for a ride around the yard. It runs a bit rough and I will be tuning up the carbs tomorrow when its bright outside again. Awesome news today. Glad I got it going.


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