Engine continued to run, now it will not start. Turn the key and nothing happens. I think it is either the switch to start the blades turning or the relay on the fuse box. This mower is 5 years old, 450 hour and maintained. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank You
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Mower ran but the blades seemed to stop turning. They ran intermittent for 10-15 seconds..
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Export threadFirst thing to check is the battery. If you find the battery voltage is below 12 VDC, which I think you will, charge the battery. If the engine starts you must check charging system output.
Battery was 12.46 volt by my meter. This is the first time this mower has let me down.
I plan on getting the technical book, Hauling this mower to the dealer is tough, and I have trust issues with the JD dealers here in SC.
I plan on getting the technical book, Hauling this mower to the dealer is tough, and I have trust issues with the JD dealers here in SC.
Second, check for a blown fuse. If that is good follow this procedure.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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- Nov 29, 2014
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Get the JD Technical Manual .
Some baulk at the price which is 1 to 2 hours of a techs charge out fee so the first tim you use it you have saved more than it cost .
Some baulk at the price which is 1 to 2 hours of a techs charge out fee so the first tim you use it you have saved more than it cost .
Battery is fine. All of the fuses are fine, checked with ohms on the meter. Chasis ground is tight and clean. 12.8 volts to the hot wire on the solenoid. All of the switches seem okay, seat, blades engage, none are burnt or enlarged. Since the problem started with the blades running and then not running then running again I am getting a new switch tomorrow. Right now the seat is off and the covers are off so that I can get to everything. I also blew out the area under the seat and vacuumed so that I can check everything.Second, check for a blown fuse. If that is good follow this procedure.
Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.
Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
I really appreciate your help and understanding. It is people like you that make this site great. Thank You.
When I finally got to see the wiring diagram I saw that if the power to the solenoid was right then all the safety switches had to be good. I did check some while watching YouTube. This find put me back to the battery which had dropped to 10.6 volts. Took the battery to a friend at Discount Auto I found that the battery would not hold a charge for long and the amps were not there when put under a load. Replaced the battery and the thing runs great.Does the engine start now? If not proceed with the procedure and post the results of each step.
A huge Thank You to the people that responded to my distress call. You all are the best. Thank You.
SeniorCitizen
Lawn Addict
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2010
- Threads
- 132
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Apologies for failing to see this when reading your initial post.Engine continued to run, now it will not start. Turn the key and nothing happens. I think it is either the switch to start the blades turning or the relay on the fuse box. This mower is 5 years old, 450 hour and maintained. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank You
In the future and for others, this battery was 5 years old and that should have been my clue. Step 1 would be take the battery to a automotive retailer and have it -- LOAD TESTED -- if you don't have the means to do so.
I had a 2 year old original battery in a new pickup truck that measured 12.3 V that wouldn't unlock the doors with the fob. 8 AA batteries would probably do that.
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