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Mower deck gets packed with grass - Cub Cadet XT1 (LT50) - Please help!
#1
B
baxeckert
B
baxeckert
Good Morning,
Last summer I purchased a new Cub Cadet XT1 (LT50) that replaced an older Cub Cadet LT1050. Prior to both of these mowers, I've never had an issue with grass accumulating under the mower deck. I spend about 30 minutes performing grass removal after every cut, and it's a pretty big amount that I'm pulling out . Is this an issue with Cub Cadet mowers? It's used to cut two properties that total a little over 2 acres and the salesman said this model would handle the acreage. Also, most of the grass is full sun, but there is an area that gets late sun and might not be as dry as the majority of the area. The grass is being cut at a height between 2.5" to 3". Any ideas of either what might be going on or strategies to combat it? I can't spend another summer up to my elbows in grass stains.
Last summer I purchased a new Cub Cadet XT1 (LT50) that replaced an older Cub Cadet LT1050. Prior to both of these mowers, I've never had an issue with grass accumulating under the mower deck. I spend about 30 minutes performing grass removal after every cut, and it's a pretty big amount that I'm pulling out . Is this an issue with Cub Cadet mowers? It's used to cut two properties that total a little over 2 acres and the salesman said this model would handle the acreage. Also, most of the grass is full sun, but there is an area that gets late sun and might not be as dry as the majority of the area. The grass is being cut at a height between 2.5" to 3". Any ideas of either what might be going on or strategies to combat it? I can't spend another summer up to my elbows in grass stains.
#2
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
I have more questions than answers at this time, as I’m standing next you with a strong drink in my hand to see your problem. Each question I ask may be or contribute to your problem. First, are you discharging or mulching? Mulching normally does lead to buildup. Second, you say you are cutting to a height of 2.5+3 inches, but how much are you cutting off each time you cut? At your height setting the max height of the grass would be 4.5 inch for a good cutting experience. Over that will slow down your blades slightly, leading to buildup. Third, what type of blade are you using, low lift, high lift, mulching or combo? Believe it or not, combining the deck design with the blade design and style of cutting leads to build up. Ex. low lift blade, mulching, and cutting long grass will lead to high buildup. Finally, what speed is your engine running at and how fast are you traveling when cutting? Not having the engine at full speed is just about the worst thing you can do to prevent buildup. Answering each and everyone of these questions will give us a better picture of what is happening.
#3
B
baxeckert
I see that it has the deck wash system, but I'm reading that it contributes to rust, so I'm hesitant to give it a try.
B
baxeckert
Lol, now *I* need the drink! Ok, I can answer a couple of those questions, but probably not the most important ones. I'm discharging the grass, so no mulching. I can't be sure of how much is actually being cut off though. I mow once a week and it never bogs down due to grass height...not sure if that info helps though. I also can't be sure of the type of blade that it's equipped with. All I know is that it's the one that came with it when purchased new. The engine is running a little higher than half way and the speed I drive, it's pretty fast, near full speed. My neighbors have repeatedly told me that they've never heard a mower sound like a swarm of bees, like this one does. Would that give any indication of which type of blades are installed on it?I have more questions than answers at this time, as I’m standing next you with a strong drink in my hand to see your problem. Each question I ask may be or contribute to your problem. First, are you discharging or mulching? Mulching normally does lead to buildup. Second, you say you are cutting to a height of 2.5+3 inches, but how much are you cutting off each time you cut? At your height setting the max height of the grass would be 4.5 inch for a good cutting experience. Over that will slow down your blades slightly, leading to buildup. Third, what type of blade are you using, low lift, high lift, mulching or combo? Believe it or not, combining the deck design with the blade design and style of cutting leads to build up. Ex. low lift blade, mulching, and cutting long grass will lead to high buildup. Finally, what speed is your engine running at and how fast are you traveling when cutting? Not having the engine at full speed is just about the worst thing you can do to prevent buildup. Answering each and everyone of these questions will give us a better picture of what is happening.
I see that it has the deck wash system, but I'm reading that it contributes to rust, so I'm hesitant to give it a try.
#5
B
baxeckert
B
baxeckert
You just might be on to something. I'll give that a try. Thanks for the tip!Maybe the speed that you are trying to mow is causing the deck clogging.
#6
Scrubcadet10
Scrubcadet10
Engine needs to be at full throttle when you mow. for best performance and the engine will cool better at full RPM. Plus the blades will spin faster
as a John Deere commercial said, "it's not how fast you mow, it's how well you mow fast"
as a John Deere commercial said, "it's not how fast you mow, it's how well you mow fast"
#7
B
baxeckert
B
baxeckert
Full throttle noted, thanks!Engine needs to be at full throttle when you mow. for best performance and the engine will cool better at full RPM.
as a John Deere commercial said, "it's not how fast you mow, it's how well you mow fast"
#8
A
APBeck
A
APBeck
I've had an XT-1 for about 3 years, use the deck wash every time I cut, and never had any rust. You just need to make sure you run it for a few minutes with no water after you're done cleaning to blow off excess water. Also, it's a good idea to clean any grass/debris from around the top of the spindles.
#9
G
Graeden
G
Graeden
Grass buildup will always occur on a mower deck, especially a stamped steel one. Wet grass will “stick” more then “dry” grass, as in do not mow for a couple of days after it rains. You can use a product such as one of the following: Mo-Deck, Gemplers Grass Shield, Titeseal or Arnold Armortek. They will help prevent build up for a time, but this requires continued reapplication when you notice build up to begin. You can also purchase a more expensive mower that has a fabricated deck which will lesson the build-up, yet it does not prevent it 10l%. Welcome to mowing!
#10
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
There is no real reason to remove a grass build up under your deck
Leave it there unless you are mowing weeds that have seeded.
Decks used to be designed to be task specific
The actual deck profile needed to bag, throw or mulch properly is substantially different .
However because mower buyers are unbelievably cheap ( too cheap for their own good ) mower companies have cut costs by making universal decks.
Universal = just as poor doing one job as the other two.
Grass builds up because the air flow is too low at that point or there is a vortex being created
Allowing the grass to build up there fills in that bad spot , like a replaceable baffle ( which were used previously but got cut because customers were too cheap to buy them ) which used to be offered to convert a bagging deck to a mulching deck.
Just as long as you are running the blades at full speed and they are sharpish it will be fine
Leave it there unless you are mowing weeds that have seeded.
Decks used to be designed to be task specific
The actual deck profile needed to bag, throw or mulch properly is substantially different .
However because mower buyers are unbelievably cheap ( too cheap for their own good ) mower companies have cut costs by making universal decks.
Universal = just as poor doing one job as the other two.
Grass builds up because the air flow is too low at that point or there is a vortex being created
Allowing the grass to build up there fills in that bad spot , like a replaceable baffle ( which were used previously but got cut because customers were too cheap to buy them ) which used to be offered to convert a bagging deck to a mulching deck.
Just as long as you are running the blades at full speed and they are sharpish it will be fine
#11
D
DELTASCIENCES
D
DELTASCIENCES
Good Morning,
Last summer I purchased a new Cub Cadet XT1 (LT50) that replaced an older Cub Cadet LT1050. Prior to both of these mowers, I've never had an issue with grass accumulating under the mower deck. I spend about 30 minutes performing grass removal after every cut, and it's a pretty big amount that I'm pulling out . Is this an issue with Cub Cadet mowers? It's used to cut two properties that total a little over 2 acres and the salesman said this model would handle the acreage. Also, most of the grass is full sun, but there is an area that gets late sun and might not be as dry as the majority of the area. The grass is being cut at a height between 2.5" to 3". Any ideas of either what might be going on or strategies to combat it? I can't spend another summer up to my elbows in grass stains.
#12
D
DELTASCIENCES
D
DELTASCIENCES
dont mow wet grass you will have to watch that cub deck like a hawk. i think the same company that paints john deere tractor pioneer brand paints cub. worst paint on market . i have a 25 yr old mtd at shop paint looks like new.
garage kept rinsed off after every use . i have several customers that have lawn care business s i see everything and no mower is made to cut wet grass.
garage kept rinsed off after every use . i have several customers that have lawn care business s i see everything and no mower is made to cut wet grass.
#13
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
If it causes you to loose sleep then get a 4' long air duster & compressor
That will shift fresh grass under a deck in about 3 minutes
While you are there blow down the top , under the belt guards and most important the hydro .
That will shift fresh grass under a deck in about 3 minutes
While you are there blow down the top , under the belt guards and most important the hydro .
#14
R
Rickcin
R
Rickcin
I’m having the same issue with my CC 42 inch lawn tractor. I installed the best hi lift mulching blades from Amazon along with the CC discharge plug and the grass clipping mounds are left all over my lawn, especially if I back up with the mower. It then leaves a big clump of grass.
Would I be better off using these blades but removing the discharge plug and reinstall the discharge chute? Thanks
Would I be better off using these blades but removing the discharge plug and reinstall the discharge chute? Thanks
Attachments
#15
R
Rivets
R
Rivets
Most often when you see clumping, it is the result of trying to cut too much at a time. The rule most of us use is never remove more than 1/3 of the grass height at a time.
#16
R
Rickcin
R
Rickcin
You are probably right and I need to do something to get a better seal with the mulching plug since grass is always getting stuck in it and squeezing through.Most often when you see clumping, it is the result of trying to cut too much at a time. The rule most of us use is never remove more than 1/3 of the grass height at a time.
#17
A
a022mil
A
a022mil
When grass is growing fast in the spring, do not mulch, let it blow out. Do not cut more than 1/3 of the height of the grass, do not cut damp grass, best after 2pm in afternoon’s, all mower’s will still accumulate some grass underneath, clean it out with a paint stick or putty knife, once in probably June when it stop’s growing so fast, start mulching again till leaves are mulched up, when grass is growing fast, I have been cutting it every. 3-4 day’s., I rinse out the bottom of my deck with a hose for 5 minutes, then run it for 5 minutes to dry it being storing till next cut, be certain to let it cool down for 20 minutes before rinsing underneath.
good luck.
good luck.
#18
R
Rickcin
R
Rickcin
The hydro being the tranny on each rear wheel thats the drive system? Not understanding what area to blow off?If it causes you to loose sleep then get a 4' long air duster & compressor
That will shift fresh grass under a deck in about 3 minutes
While you are there blow down the top , under the belt guards and most important the hydro .
#20
R
Rickcin
R
Rickcin
I do have an Ego battery blower and will use that as well as I’m building a small ramp that will be about 10 inches high so I can get my hand under the deck with a scraper.
It seems whenever I back up when cutting, clumps of grass end up on the newly cut lawn.
Im thinking that a fabricated deck would have given me a better cut than the stamped deck?
It seems whenever I back up when cutting, clumps of grass end up on the newly cut lawn.
Im thinking that a fabricated deck would have given me a better cut than the stamped deck?
#21
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
pressed decks give the best quality of cut because the air flow and in particular the space for the air flow with the clippings is better controlled
The best cut quality is from decks with timed overlapping blades & a pressed deck
After that is plain pressed decks then fabricated decks .
There are exceptions for mower that are designed to cut grass like Walkers & Grasshoppers rather than designed to be cheap to assemble & make profits .
No deck will cut backwards properly.
Decks that throw will reverse best , baggers after that and mulchers will always clump when going backwards it is all in the design ( or lack of it ) of the decks .
Back when ride ons were a luxury item so the makers could charge a reasonable price for them mower companies made totally different decks for throwing, mulching & bagging .
Along with this was blades in low, medium, & high lift + mulching blades
As they moved into the day to day necessities the profits dropped like a stone so did the quality of design and decks were where the most costs were cut from.
First there was the convertable deck with removable baffels & mulch plugs
Followed by the universal deck , bad at everything .
Because users are lazy & stupid smash proof fabricated decks moved from the 1000 hr a year commercial mowers to the 100 hrs a year domestic mowers.
The best cut quality is from decks with timed overlapping blades & a pressed deck
After that is plain pressed decks then fabricated decks .
There are exceptions for mower that are designed to cut grass like Walkers & Grasshoppers rather than designed to be cheap to assemble & make profits .
No deck will cut backwards properly.
Decks that throw will reverse best , baggers after that and mulchers will always clump when going backwards it is all in the design ( or lack of it ) of the decks .
Back when ride ons were a luxury item so the makers could charge a reasonable price for them mower companies made totally different decks for throwing, mulching & bagging .
Along with this was blades in low, medium, & high lift + mulching blades
As they moved into the day to day necessities the profits dropped like a stone so did the quality of design and decks were where the most costs were cut from.
First there was the convertable deck with removable baffels & mulch plugs
Followed by the universal deck , bad at everything .
Because users are lazy & stupid smash proof fabricated decks moved from the 1000 hr a year commercial mowers to the 100 hrs a year domestic mowers.
#22
R
Rickcin
R
Rickcin
I did build a little ramp where I can drive my tractor onto four concrete blocks, remove the wood and then be able to reach under the deck to scrap it clean. 
#23
bmckechnie
bmckechnie
I have the same mower.....my problem is not buildup under the deck near blades, it is under the shields around the spindles on top of the deck. I mow at full throttle and it never seems to be an issue bogging down. It take a good 30 minutes to clean out by removing the shields and hosing down the spindles. Is there a down side to leaving the shields off?
#24
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
Only chopping your foot up or getting big bits of debris in there that can toss the belt off the pulleys .
Do not try to wash clippings off the deck.
Blow then off
Best is an air compressor with a very long duster ( you can get them up to 2 yards long ).
Second best is your leaf blower
Do not try to wash clippings off the deck.
Blow then off
Best is an air compressor with a very long duster ( you can get them up to 2 yards long ).
Second best is your leaf blower
#25
7394
Mine I removed when I got it. But for safety sake you could drill holes on the outside of the spindle covers so a blower can access that area..
And as to hosing off the spindles, that's cool water going on hot spindles. IMO you are inviting water to invade the spindles = $$..
I NEVER use water on any mower, winter clean & wax, thru season blow & wipe off with duster or dry rag.
7394
Is there a down side to leaving the shields off?
Mine I removed when I got it. But for safety sake you could drill holes on the outside of the spindle covers so a blower can access that area..
And as to hosing off the spindles, that's cool water going on hot spindles. IMO you are inviting water to invade the spindles = $$..
I NEVER use water on any mower, winter clean & wax, thru season blow & wipe off with duster or dry rag.
#26
bmckechnie
bmckechnie
No way is an air compressor getting the clippings out from under the shields. The clippings seriously clog up under the shield. I hear what you're saying about the water and possible damage. There are already holes in the shield, but impossible to clean without removing the shields (3 bolts). Just don't really understand why the clippings are getting up above the deck around the spindles and belts.....if I leave the grass there, wouldn't that be a fire hazard eventually or damage the belts?
I'm not currently using the bagger thought I have one and I'm not mulching either.
I'll try to get some pictures next week.
I'm not currently using the bagger thought I have one and I'm not mulching either.
I'll try to get some pictures next week.
#27
7394
7394
Is your deck "Vented" around the spindles ? Had a craftsman rider & it did this constantly.. I just left the covers off.
Either that, or you are getting tons of blow back from under the deck to the topside..
Either that, or you are getting tons of blow back from under the deck to the topside..
#28
H
hlw49
H
hlw49
Grass build up under the deck will change the air flow under the deck and cause less lift. There for creating a poor quality cut.There is no real reason to remove a grass build up under your deck
Leave it there unless you are mowing weeds that have seeded.
Decks used to be designed to be task specific
The actual deck profile needed to bag, throw or mulch properly is substantially different .
However because mower buyers are unbelievably cheap ( too cheap for their own good ) mower companies have cut costs by making universal decks.
Universal = just as poor doing one job as the other two.
Grass builds up because the air flow is too low at that point or there is a vortex being created
Allowing the grass to build up there fills in that bad spot , like a replaceable baffle ( which were used previously but got cut because customers were too cheap to buy them ) which used to be offered to convert a bagging deck to a mulching deck.
Just as long as you are running the blades at full speed and they are sharpish it will be fine
#29
B
bertsmobile1
Build up on a fabricated deck happens in low air flow regions .
Reducing the volume of space between the blades and the deck actually increases the air velocity
Same thing that happens with a leaf blower
B
bertsmobile1
Only on a pressed deckGrass build up under the deck will change the air flow under the deck and cause less lift. There for creating a poor quality cut.
Build up on a fabricated deck happens in low air flow regions .
Reducing the volume of space between the blades and the deck actually increases the air velocity
Same thing that happens with a leaf blower
#30
bkeller500
bkeller500
I have lived on this 1.5 acre residential area for 30 years. Over that time I have had 6 different lawn tractors and 2 ZT's. I have had Toro's, John Deeres and Simplicities. They ALL clogged the decks when I mowed damp grass or grass that had over grown. I have used stock blades, gator blades, hi lift blades and mulching blades. At times one set of blades works Ok but not for an entire season. Dry grass is EZ to mow and mulch but cutting thick grass requires sharp blades, high RPM, good air flow and dry grass and even then you get deck build up. Best method is to mow more often and take off less and blow it out. doing so pretty much eliminates mulching and the problems associated with it. My experience with mulching has been less than desirable. It's hard to understand that the same setup that is designed to lift the grass, cut the grass, re-cut the grass while in suspension, and release and drop the grass is going to do so without creating a mess.
#31
R
Ronni
R
Ronni
I have had my Cub Cadet LT1045 since 2007 and have never had any of these problems mowing in central Florida until four years ago and Northern Georgia for the rest of the time. I also mow about half an acre of my own, and two other neighbor lawns, one about the same size as my own. I always mow dry grass; never wet and never get any grass cutting build up under my mower deck but I do sharpen or replace my blades each season with the standard blades for the machine. I also cut at 1/3 throttle at 3" for normal grass and 4" for thick grass. The bottom of my deck has no grass accumulation to speak of. I love my Cub Cadet and put a new short block engine in it about a year ago and have replaced all three spindles about the same time and just recently replaced the deck bolt for the tensioner arm because the self locking nut was slipping. I have replaced the deck belt about three times and the drive belt about a year ago with Kevlar belts. I have no complaints about performance of my mower. They are not for the mechanically challenged, however.
#32
B
bertsmobile1
B
bertsmobile1
People forget that grass is a living thing and as such is not universal
It changes day to day & even hour to hour
Right now the grass is lush & green but the cattle are loosing weight because after the floods the ground is water logged so the water content of the grass is so high that the cows can physically not eat enough by volume to get the nutrition they need so they are being feed molassis as well + a salt lick.
If I try to mow any more than 1" off the top of the grassy verges it clumps & leaves grass turds all over the place because it is just too wet .
Around the house I am using the reel mower because it will handle this type of soft wet grass better than a rotary can .
All of my commercial customers, except the one who mows road verges & median strips carry several sets of different blades and in extreme cases have to change them for every job
FWIW the blades that are least worse for most grasses are the gator style of blade but only when used with an open chute that is big.
I have extended the chute on several Murray 42" decks so the grass clippings can get out other wise they leave windrows .
It changes day to day & even hour to hour
Right now the grass is lush & green but the cattle are loosing weight because after the floods the ground is water logged so the water content of the grass is so high that the cows can physically not eat enough by volume to get the nutrition they need so they are being feed molassis as well + a salt lick.
If I try to mow any more than 1" off the top of the grassy verges it clumps & leaves grass turds all over the place because it is just too wet .
Around the house I am using the reel mower because it will handle this type of soft wet grass better than a rotary can .
All of my commercial customers, except the one who mows road verges & median strips carry several sets of different blades and in extreme cases have to change them for every job
FWIW the blades that are least worse for most grasses are the gator style of blade but only when used with an open chute that is big.
I have extended the chute on several Murray 42" decks so the grass clippings can get out other wise they leave windrows .
#33
L
lefty2cox
L
lefty2cox
I always blow my z-turn off with my 80cc backpack blower. No blade of grass stands a chance against that kind of volume. Even grass under the pulley shrouds. When I change/sharpen my blades, I always remove the deck and scrape it with a putty knife. But I'm rethinking that part after reading Bert's post. I never thought of the fact that dried-up grass could be creating a more advantageous shape underneath and better air movement. I'm going to try leaving it next time.
I would also spray the bottom with fluid film after scraping but started to suspect it was damaging the grass. I recently saw a video by donyboy where he applied old motor oil on the underside with a paint brush. I was wondering what others thought about that.
I would also spray the bottom with fluid film after scraping but started to suspect it was damaging the grass. I recently saw a video by donyboy where he applied old motor oil on the underside with a paint brush. I was wondering what others thought about that.