Molasses for oil

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
65
Messages
24,995
If there's anything plastic in that engine, acetone will attack it.

Kerro is the go .
Has been so since the first internal combustion engine was made.
Put some strait kerro in , take the plug out and give it a lot of pulls.
You can over fill a bit because you are not going to run the engine.
Leave it in the sun so it gets warm and come back every hour or so and give it a few more pulls.
At the end of the day, week end , week whatever drain the kerro out.
Refill with the 50:50 kerro oil mix and run the engine on low idle for 10 to 15 minutes then drain & refill with fresh cheap oil
Go mow your lawn then change the oil again
Change the oil again at the end of the season.
Check under the engine because usually the lower oil seal will start to leak after all the crud sitting on top of it is removed.
 

mhavanti

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2014
Threads
12
Messages
924
Everyone is correct and if you don't have kerosene handy, use cheap automatic transmission fluid. (Type A, Suffix A) has detergent in it along with anti foaming agents and anti rust agents that will still lubricate the crankshaft mains and rod throw while running. You can also run it with fifty-fifty trans fluid and motor oil of your choice and it will also clean your engine.

Stay away from anything that attacks rubber such as brake fluids, acetone and there are quite a few more that will make your seals expand and pop out of place.

Run as Bert has described with the kerosene or the trans fluid and I know a few women's cooking that has some extraordinary oils left over in the bottom of their skillets that just might clean out that little engine as it does the fella's they feed.

Good luck Sir,

Max
 

hrdman2luv

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2014
Threads
62
Messages
345
The used motor oil that I put in it, after a few days of sitting, has helped. I got it cranked yesterday, for a short time. (carb needs a cleaning) Gonna drain and refill with 50/50 (trans/motor oil) recipe today, while I clean out the carb. The primer button doesn't seem to be priming anything. And the gas is flowing from the tank through the fuel line. With the oil being almost a solid, I'm sure there's some crap in the carb.
 

7394

Lawn Pro
Joined
Sep 5, 2014
Threads
90
Messages
5,104
We used to add one portion of diesel fuel to the oil & run it for short while & drain. repeat as needed.
 

bertsmobile1

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Threads
65
Messages
24,995
The used motor oil that I put in it, after a few days of sitting, has helped. I got it cranked yesterday, for a short time. (carb needs a cleaning) Gonna drain and refill with 50/50 (trans/motor oil) recipe today, while I clean out the carb. The primer button doesn't seem to be priming anything. And the gas is flowing from the tank through the fuel line. With the oil being almost a solid, I'm sure there's some crap in the carb.

2 kinds of primer.
1 squirts raw fuel into the carb and works perfectly , reliabily for decades so naturally some pencil d**k in the EPA had to fiddle with it.
The other kind pumps air into the float bowl causing the float to sink allowing the fuel level to become slightly higher than it should thus requiring less venturi pressure to suck it into the engine.
This type does not work anf require a lot of work or complete replacement of the entire housing to make an air tight seal.
Thus to "save the planet" from the 0.01cc of extra fuel burning rich in your engine when you start it, you now have 75cc of fuel in your float bowl pour onto the floor or into your grass 6 to 10 times while you try to get this "planet saving" device to work.
 

hrdman2luv

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2014
Threads
62
Messages
345
2 kinds of primer.
1 squirts raw fuel into the carb and works perfectly , reliabily for decades so naturally some pencil d**k in the EPA had to fiddle with it.
The other kind pumps air into the float bowl causing the float to sink allowing the fuel level to become slightly higher than it should thus requiring less venturi pressure to suck it into the engine.
This type does not work anf require a lot of work or complete replacement of the entire housing to make an air tight seal.
Thus to "save the planet" from the 0.01cc of extra fuel burning rich in your engine when you start it, you now have 75cc of fuel in your float bowl pour onto the floor or into your grass 6 to 10 times while you try to get this "planet saving" device to work.

:drink::banana: Well said.
 
Top