McCulloch Chain Saw 310 No Start !!!

[slomo]

Might take a heat gun. Say remove a main jet. Blow some heat where the jet was. Get the area nice and toasty. Swab out with a swab stick of choice. Spray it down with some fire eye carb cleaner. Blow out with compressed air both ways.

slomo

 

[oldlawnguy]

Back again just to let everyone know whats up. I removed the carb again and am going to order the rebuild OEM rebuild kit and redo the rebuild again. I will for sure do the clean up again just in case I missed something. Well keep you posted as to how this comes out and again Thanks for all the advice. I haven't given up yet on this saw. Ha Ha

You might want to see if u can get another genuine carb and or a suitable substitute for a C1. By run do you mean it fired twice and died? You didn't mention what settings you had on your L and H jets. After seating, Zama recommends you start both on 2 and go from there.

A year ago I bought a Zama knockoff on ZomAcomb for $20 as a backup since I could not find the Zama rebuild kit reference chart at the time. The Jets were not robust like the original and it was probably a Zama reject, but I now have a rebuild kit and more for the original which is working. I crushed the H jet on it.

As a DIYer, I have found via my shoulder that getting a saw to run and tuning it are sometimes the same thing! It can be a SOB to do unless you have done 10,000 times like the pros online here. In my small sample set of Walbro and Zama carbs across Poulan, Husqvarna and Homelite sometimes you start at 1 1/4 turns and sometimes at 2. You can pull that cord all day and unless you are willing for patience and slowly adjusting it aint gonna fire. Where as a pro will know where to start and finishes in like in 10 min with 5 of those min letting the saw warm up while drinking coffee.

 

[OldDiyer]

First off there is no new carbs in this part number to replace the one I have but if they were I would have got one. And I agree oldlawnguy I am also not good at pulling the ropes anymore as I suffer from COPD so it doesn't take much to put me on hold till I can get my air going again. By running I did get it going for maybe 5 min. or so but it stalled so I left it for the next day thinking it would start but of course it didn't and I seemed to back where I was in the first place with a no start. So at this point I am waiting on the OEM carb kit and will go thru that again and hope that it does the trick. Wish that Zama would give you a starting point for the HL adjustment but I could not find that on there site and even with their Vid on rebuilding the carb.

 

[oldlawnguy]

First off there is no new carbs in this part number to replace the one I have but if they were I would have got one. And I agree oldlawnguy I am also not good at pulling the ropes anymore as I suffer from COPD so it doesn't take much to put me on hold till I can get my air going again. By running I did get it going for maybe 5 min. or so but it stalled so I left it for the next day thinking it would start but of course it didn't and I seemed to back where I was in the first place with a no start. So at this point I am waiting on the OEM carb kit and will go thru that again and hope that it does the trick. Wish that Zama would give you a starting point for the HL adjustment but I could not find that on there site and even with their Vid on rebuilding the carb.

I did see that some C1 17-02A carbs were sold on EmptyBay where you always roll the dice, however you are correct none are available.

My previous reply did mention the recommend Zama starting point. Seat both jets gently, then turn out counter-clockwise 2 turns each. So L jet on 2 and H jet on 2 also. Also turn T screw all they way in and try with full choke so that throttle valve gets opened a crack.

It would be helpful if you can be outdoors in a garage or shed and can mount saw in a vice at workbench height. Take the chain off, but leave bar on as mount point. 1st step is to see if you can just keep running longer than 5 min. If saw has priming bulb, prime it 6 or 7 times. Give like 5 or 6 good pulls then if it looks like it's trying to fire push in choke 1/2 way and try again. If no go push choke in all the way and try again. Then if still no go turn out L jet 1/4 turn and repeat.

The magic which this forum helps you is to know when to turn out a jet or turn in a jet 1/4 at a time If eventually found even and 1/8 or 1/16 or a turn on jets and or Throttle screw have a noticable impact on engine.

Just for reference I have a saw with a Zama cab with L jet at 2 1/4 and T screw turned almost all they way out and it will just sit there and idle all day.

 

[OldDiyer]

I will give that a try when I get everything back together. On this saw it has t throttle hold that keeps the throttle open for starting but does not have a primer bulb wish it did as it would be a lot better to get fuel to the carb when it is empty. Am suppose to get the kit on tuesday so well be back to the saw. In a way I wish this saw was just a piece of crap but it is a like new ( almost ) so thats why I am putting all this time in on it. I have a Mac 35 and a Mac 110 both are really good saws. Had the 110 since new and the Mac 35 for over 25 years was another gift no run when I got it.

 

[OldDiyer]

Update and New Question, I was looking on E Bay and found a untested carb that is the one my saw uses so I purchased it for an offer price of $12.00 figured I couldn't go wrong. Now What would you guys do 1 rebuild again the one I have 2 rebuild the untested one I just bought or 3 just install untested and see what happens !!!! The card I am getting looks in good shape but who knows.

 

[slomo]

I did see that some C1 17-02A carbs were sold on EmptyBay where you always roll the dice,

As oldlawnguy said, carbs from ebay and amazon are not recommended. They are Chi'sneeze clones, some work some don't. Lots of reworking it to make it fit and run. Been there done that. Not worth it to save a couple bucks. Chi'sneeze carbs are never 100% clones and drop-ins. Least the ones I've bought in the past. Clean or rebuild the OEM carb.

slomo

 

[OldDiyer]

I get it for sure but this is not a new clone it is not a new carb but an OEM but was just removed from a saw and is being sold it is the same number as mine. I just asked the question in my last post what would be the best way to go with my carb problem. I also still have a OEM rebuild kit also coming. The kit is coming from another person.

 

[slomo]

If and when you spray carb cleaner, put safety glasses on. Or a stinking SCUBA mask LOL. No joke, that fire juice will burn the snot out of your eyes. I'm a professional at getting it in my eyes LOL.

slomo

 

[bertsmobile1]

Cube carbs have very fine passageways that can get blocked by evaporated fuel deposits & corrosion
Some have rubber tipped check valves that perish & stick closed
As such buying an old used one is just as big a gamble as buying an unbranded carb from a scrap metal merchant on the web.
Some carbs I have rebuilt have taken better than 5 hours in the ultrasound to get them clean and others were just not repairable.
Now 5 hours of my time is $ 300 ( Aus) and if charged out is substantially more than the whole machine is worth.
I buy carbs either from a dedicated after market mower parts company or direct from the factory / factories retail agent .

And the more times you pull one apart the more damage you do
Also the common car carb cleaners will damage rubber check valves which is why Walbro formulated their own cube carb safe brew but again a can of it cost almost what a new carb does.
Some times the only alternative is to buy the wrong carb and swap over the butterflys because the original is no longer made .