I have a 2008 LT1045. The problem I am having is that when I turn the NEW(replaced 06/16/2016 thinking that would fix the problem) Ignition switch to the ON position it will blow the 20 amp fuse. I can't even turn the key to start, it blows it on the ON position. Any suggestions on how to fix this problem would be greatly appreciated!! Could it be a solenoid issue, or something bigger?
LT1045 BLOWING 20 AMP FUSE
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All are off.... the fuse blows BEFORE I can even make it to the run position. It blows when I turn from off to the next position (on). #perplexed.
ok...thanks
bertsmobile1
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This is not going to be easy and depending upon how much you understand electricity, it will only get harder.
When you turn the ignition switch to the on position it connectes the red/white wire to the solid red wire.
The solid red wire is connected to the PTO switch. the carby solenoid , the alternator regulator and the hour meter.
One of these componants has gone direct short or the wire to one of these has gone direct short.
So dissconnect all of these parts at their plug then one at a time reconnect the plugs for each of these parts.
When the fuse blows you have found the culprit.
If the fuse blows with all of them disconnected you have a wiring short
When you turn the ignition switch to the on position it connectes the red/white wire to the solid red wire.
The solid red wire is connected to the PTO switch. the carby solenoid , the alternator regulator and the hour meter.
One of these componants has gone direct short or the wire to one of these has gone direct short.
So dissconnect all of these parts at their plug then one at a time reconnect the plugs for each of these parts.
When the fuse blows you have found the culprit.
If the fuse blows with all of them disconnected you have a wiring short
Thanks for the input...I know very little about electricity. I know I can follow your advice and see what happens. If after doing the first recommendation there is a wiring short, where do I go from there? Would I be better to take it to the shop and have them fix it; or is this something that would cost more than, or close to, what the mower is worth and I should cut my loses and purchase a new mower?
bertsmobile1
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All depends upon the mower shop.
Some will change the loom and that is a 2 to 3 chargable hour job so 3 x their hourly rate + loom
You can do exactly the same thing as it is a realtively new mower so looms are available.
Buy the loom form a dealer, to make sure it is the correct one as looms usually are non refundable items.
Now for a short to happen, a wire has to be bent , twisted , cut or chaffed through.
So you can slit the loom carefully with an exacto knife and follow the red wire ( the one that connects to the A1 terminal ) on the ignition switch to find where it is shorting then patch up the insultaion with some self amalgamating tape, not duct tape not sticky tape and not insulating tape.
Some will change the loom and that is a 2 to 3 chargable hour job so 3 x their hourly rate + loom
You can do exactly the same thing as it is a realtively new mower so looms are available.
Buy the loom form a dealer, to make sure it is the correct one as looms usually are non refundable items.
Now for a short to happen, a wire has to be bent , twisted , cut or chaffed through.
So you can slit the loom carefully with an exacto knife and follow the red wire ( the one that connects to the A1 terminal ) on the ignition switch to find where it is shorting then patch up the insultaion with some self amalgamating tape, not duct tape not sticky tape and not insulating tape.
Sounds like a job for the experts.....Dang, I really wanted to do this myself. Thanks for all the input.