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LT1045 BLOWING 20 AMP FUSE

#1

F

FLEA

I have a 2008 LT1045. The problem I am having is that when I turn the NEW(replaced 06/16/2016 thinking that would fix the problem) Ignition switch to the ON position it will blow the 20 amp fuse. I can't even turn the key to start, it blows it on the ON position. Any suggestions on how to fix this problem would be greatly appreciated!! Could it be a solenoid issue, or something bigger?


#2

BlazNT

BlazNT

This is what is connected to the key switch when in run.
1. Battery
2. Lights(if you have them)
3. PTO switch
Make sure they are all turned off.


#3

F

FLEA

This is what is connected to the key switch when in run.
1. Battery
2. Lights(if you have them)
3. PTO switch
Make sure they are all turned off.

All are off.... the fuse blows BEFORE I can even make it to the run position. It blows when I turn from off to the next position (on). #perplexed.


#4

BlazNT

BlazNT

On is the run the next one is start.
So off then on/run then start


#5

F

FLEA

On is the run the next one is start.
So off then on/run then start

ok...thanks


#6

BlazNT

BlazNT

If all are turned off I would start by unplugging the PTO switch and see if it happens.


#7

B

bertsmobile1

This is not going to be easy and depending upon how much you understand electricity, it will only get harder.
When you turn the ignition switch to the on position it connectes the red/white wire to the solid red wire.
The solid red wire is connected to the PTO switch. the carby solenoid , the alternator regulator and the hour meter.
One of these componants has gone direct short or the wire to one of these has gone direct short.
So dissconnect all of these parts at their plug then one at a time reconnect the plugs for each of these parts.
When the fuse blows you have found the culprit.
If the fuse blows with all of them disconnected you have a wiring short


#8

F

FLEA

This is not going to be easy and depending upon how much you understand electricity, it will only get harder.
When you turn the ignition switch to the on position it connectes the red/white wire to the solid red wire.
The solid red wire is connected to the PTO switch. the carby solenoid , the alternator regulator and the hour meter.
One of these componants has gone direct short or the wire to one of these has gone direct short.
So dissconnect all of these parts at their plug then one at a time reconnect the plugs for each of these parts.
When the fuse blows you have found the culprit.
If the fuse blows with all of them disconnected you have a wiring short

Thanks for the input...I know very little about electricity. I know I can follow your advice and see what happens. If after doing the first recommendation there is a wiring short, where do I go from there? Would I be better to take it to the shop and have them fix it; or is this something that would cost more than, or close to, what the mower is worth and I should cut my loses and purchase a new mower?


#9

B

bertsmobile1

All depends upon the mower shop.
Some will change the loom and that is a 2 to 3 chargable hour job so 3 x their hourly rate + loom
You can do exactly the same thing as it is a realtively new mower so looms are available.
Buy the loom form a dealer, to make sure it is the correct one as looms usually are non refundable items.

Now for a short to happen, a wire has to be bent , twisted , cut or chaffed through.
So you can slit the loom carefully with an exacto knife and follow the red wire ( the one that connects to the A1 terminal ) on the ignition switch to find where it is shorting then patch up the insultaion with some self amalgamating tape, not duct tape not sticky tape and not insulating tape.


#10

F

FLEA

All depends upon the mower shop.
Some will change the loom and that is a 2 to 3 chargable hour job so 3 x their hourly rate + loom
You can do exactly the same thing as it is a realtively new mower so looms are available.
Buy the loom form a dealer, to make sure it is the correct one as looms usually are non refundable items.

Now for a short to happen, a wire has to be bent , twisted , cut or chaffed through.
So you can slit the loom carefully with an exacto knife and follow the red wire ( the one that connects to the A1 terminal ) on the ignition switch to find where it is shorting then patch up the insultaion with some self amalgamating tape, not duct tape not sticky tape and not insulating tape.

Sounds like a job for the experts.....Dang, I really wanted to do this myself. Thanks for all the input.


#11

B

bertsmobile1

And you can wiring is simple if you start at one end and gp through to the other
There is really not much wiring on the mower.
The hardest part is getting used to hanging from the rafters in order to get in there.
The week end is coming up so you should be able to knock it over in a couple of days
And you know the short is somewhere between the 4 plugs you just undid.


#12

BlazNT

BlazNT

Sounds like a job for the experts.....Dang, I really wanted to do this myself. Thanks for all the input.

It does not require an expert just someone willing to pay attention to detail. You can do it.


#13

F

FLEA

I am glad to report that I found the problem of the dead short....After changing switches (starter,PTO )and the solenoid; I started to trace wires from the back to the front of the mower. The culprit was the LAST wire I saw, it was a tiny (thin) wire that was cable tied to what appeared to be the bottom of the carburator.
I snipped the cable tie and there it was....bare wire against the metal. I pushed the wire away, turned the key and the mower started right up. Thank you everyone for the advice and the vote of confidence...I think I probably saved myself a few hundred bucks and learned something in the process.....Thanks again!!


#14

BlazNT

BlazNT

Too bad you did not start with that wire. :smile:


#15

B

bertsmobile1

There is a golden rule when chasing shorts.
"It is always the last wire you check"
So short cut by deciding what order the check things then do it backwards :laughing:
Well done by the way shout yourself a beer :drink:


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