I use a chain hoist in my shop also for the same reason that carcw does. Have considered something like the Heftee lift for the shop, but can't work more than a few minutes with my arms over my head anymore.
Lifts for repairing mowers
- Thread starter Sonders
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West
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I use MojackPro, I wanted to make sure the jack could handle the weight of my Hustler Fastrak , Ive used it 3 times this year in the garage or outside its pretty handy and safe.
Best price I found was on Amazon lots of reviews there also.
Best price I found was on Amazon lots of reviews there also.
![image_21446[1].jpg](https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/data/attachments/17/17711-3ccb7fb1219adcc3bd303fe2210f5829.jpg "image_21446[1].jpg")
pugaltitude
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I use one of these in my workshop.
http://www.consul-gmbh.com/produkte/consul-1 post lift-106-rm?language=en
You can also get attachments to allow a tractor sideways.
http://www.consul-gmbh.com/produkte/consul-1 post lift-106-rm?language=en
You can also get attachments to allow a tractor sideways.
NorthBama
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wow looks nice
bertsmobile1
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I am another chain block man.
Just depends upon what I am doing.
I have a set of car ( truck ? ) ramps with a flat running surface so the castor wheels will not get stuck.
These are 18" high and do well for most zero turns.
Once up on the ramps, most of the weight willbe on the back wheels so you can turn the entire ramp out of the way.
Just need to remember to rotate the castor wheels 180 deg before you try to drive off.
For deeper work I have a few jacks that will go under the back of all ZTR's so the front is 18" and the back is 20"
As I am not particular portly that is more than enough to get under them easily.
For tractors I hitch up the front axels to a chain block and stand the mower on its end ( drain the fuel first ) for doing work under the chassis like traction belts .
I have used the same chain block for ZTR's and it works fine but it is a small block ( 1/2 ton) so is a heavy lift and driving onto the ramps is easier.
A heavier chain block is on the shopping list.
I have looked at mo jacks & the like but can't justify $ 500 for some thing I could do with a $ 20 bumper bar jack and the legs & jack itself will get in the way.
I have a 2 ton rolling car engine hoist that I bought 15 year ago.
It sits in the back of the shop for the same reason. No matter how you position it the legs get in the way/.
Bert ( who I bought the business off ) used an electric fork lift.
He drilled a hole in the end of the forks ( not easy ) then bolted a pair of gun hooks to the ends, drives these under the front then hits the lift button, very easy & very quick & the hooks stop the mower sliding off the fork ends.
He told me originally he used to pop a pair of slings on the mower then pop them over the gun hooks and lift but found this was not necessary and it was quicker to just lift the mower directly.
Just depends upon what I am doing.
I have a set of car ( truck ? ) ramps with a flat running surface so the castor wheels will not get stuck.
These are 18" high and do well for most zero turns.
Once up on the ramps, most of the weight willbe on the back wheels so you can turn the entire ramp out of the way.
Just need to remember to rotate the castor wheels 180 deg before you try to drive off.
For deeper work I have a few jacks that will go under the back of all ZTR's so the front is 18" and the back is 20"
As I am not particular portly that is more than enough to get under them easily.
For tractors I hitch up the front axels to a chain block and stand the mower on its end ( drain the fuel first ) for doing work under the chassis like traction belts .
I have used the same chain block for ZTR's and it works fine but it is a small block ( 1/2 ton) so is a heavy lift and driving onto the ramps is easier.
A heavier chain block is on the shopping list.
I have looked at mo jacks & the like but can't justify $ 500 for some thing I could do with a $ 20 bumper bar jack and the legs & jack itself will get in the way.
I have a 2 ton rolling car engine hoist that I bought 15 year ago.
It sits in the back of the shop for the same reason. No matter how you position it the legs get in the way/.
Bert ( who I bought the business off ) used an electric fork lift.
He drilled a hole in the end of the forks ( not easy ) then bolted a pair of gun hooks to the ends, drives these under the front then hits the lift button, very easy & very quick & the hooks stop the mower sliding off the fork ends.
He told me originally he used to pop a pair of slings on the mower then pop them over the gun hooks and lift but found this was not necessary and it was quicker to just lift the mower directly.
