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Leaf blades
#1
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Hello I wonder if anyone sells a mower deck blade which is designed for leaves.
So it would be a blade that basically starts out parallel to the ground and then rotate to 90°.. could even be made out of carbon fiber or some type of very high strength plastic snot designed to cut grass it's only designed to blow leaves through the discharge chute of a mower deck. I've seen traditional mower deck blades some are labeled ultra high lift sometimes they're mulching blades but they are essentially conventional mower deck blades so I'm thinking something completely different.
Jim
So it would be a blade that basically starts out parallel to the ground and then rotate to 90°.. could even be made out of carbon fiber or some type of very high strength plastic snot designed to cut grass it's only designed to blow leaves through the discharge chute of a mower deck. I've seen traditional mower deck blades some are labeled ultra high lift sometimes they're mulching blades but they are essentially conventional mower deck blades so I'm thinking something completely different.
Jim
#2
Tiger Small Engine
Tiger Small Engine
Gator blades.Hello I wonder if anyone sells a mower deck blade which is designed for leaves.
So it would be a blade that basically starts out parallel to the ground and then rotate to 90°.. could even be made out of carbon fiber or some type of very high strength plastic snot designed to cut grass it's only designed to blow leaves through the discharge chute of a mower deck. I've seen traditional mower deck blades some are labeled ultra high lift sometimes they're mulching blades but they are essentially conventional mower deck blades so I'm thinking something completely different.
Jim
#3
J
JimP2014
Thanks,
Jim
J
JimP2014
Thank-you Tiger. So either mulch them up very fine or get a backpack leaf blower and move them intact to someplace else. No other choices here. I was hoping to use the power of say 19HP from the riding mower to do what a 4HP backpack leaf blower can do. I thought those were about $1000 but it seems for under $200 it is possible to get a gas powered leaf blower that is not a toy. So far in my research I think this is true.Gator blades.
Thanks,
Jim
#4
StarTech
StarTech
Just note mulch up leaves will feed your lawn as they decay over the winter months.
#6
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
I agree with you. I watch people that have to pick up the grass clippings and then wonder why even after hiring "green grass specialists" that put the nittrogen back into their lawn, they end up with a lawn that is not as green as mine. And I do nothing to it. It is funny. Not that I care about having a green lawn.
Jim
Jim
#7
StarTech
StarTech
Well currently my lawn is nearly dead from the lack of rain so it is definitely not all that green. It is raining all around me but just keep skip my area. The only currently that look healthy is the weeds. All got a few drops yesterday while I was relaxing laying on the lawn under a tree. Plenty of thunder but no rain per say.
I been only cutting it every two or three weeks just to keep the seeds down to let it be a little taller to shade the roots. The next door guy cuts his every week and it is basically dormant now like the middle of the winter and huge dust clouds while he mows.
I been only cutting it every two or three weeks just to keep the seeds down to let it be a little taller to shade the roots. The next door guy cuts his every week and it is basically dormant now like the middle of the winter and huge dust clouds while he mows.
#8
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Yes same here another drought this summer. I have such a neighbor ( OCD and other oddities ) that learned last summer not a good idea to create a dust storms. Very amusing to watch.Well currently my lawn is nearly dead from the lack of rain so it is definitely not all that green. It is raining all around me but just keep skip my area. The only currently that look healthy is the weeds. All got a few drops yesterday while I was relaxing laying on the lawn under a tree. Plenty of thunder but no rain per say.
I been only cutting it every two or three weeks just to keep the seeds down to let it be a little taller to shade the roots. The next door guy cuts his every week and it is basically dormant now like the middle of the winter and huge dust clouds while he mows.
#9
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
So I wish someone would invent something like fan blades for a mower deck so it would be a typical mower deck blade but as you go out towards the ends of the blade the surface rotates so that it looks like a fan and you would set your deck to the highest setting Mount those things and then blow the leaves instead of mulching them like typical mulching blades do it probably haven't to remove some of the hardware for the chute, on my lt2000 for example a plastic chute.
If those things existed I would spend 30 bucks for pair of 42-in I leaf blowing blades.
Jim
If those things existed I would spend 30 bucks for pair of 42-in I leaf blowing blades.
Jim
#10
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Or the other idea I had was to keep your existing blades on the machine and then you have this two-piece fan blade system that mounts to the existing mower deck blades + basically creates a blade that looks perpendicular to the existing mower deck blade so you would retrofit each blade with this bolt-on system.So I wish someone would invent something like fan blades for a mower deck so it would be a typical mower deck blade but as you go out towards the ends of the blade the surface rotates so that it looks like a fan and you would set your deck to the highest setting Mount those things and then blow the leaves instead of mulching them like typical mulching blades do it probably haven't to remove some of the hardware for the chute, on my lt2000 for example a plastic chute.
If those things existed I would spend 30 bucks for pair of 42-in I leaf blowing blades.
Jim
#11
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
I was hoping rivets can design thisOr the other idea I had was to keep your existing blades on the machine and then you have this two-piece fan blade system that mounts to the existing mower deck blades + basically creates a blade that looks perpendicular to the existing mower deck blade so you would retrofit each blade with this bolt-on system.
#12
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
And will this work I have no idea someone can go build a prototype and let me know.I was hoping rivets can design this
Jim
#13
StarTech
StarTech
If not cutting grass you could weld a pair of high lift blades for each spindle at 90 degrees of each other. Welding would insure the blades stay at 90 degrees and not slip. Noting blades with stars would need blade's star removed. That would be the blade farthermost from the spindle mount. This should double the lift and exit pressures. Now gator blades would be a better choice as you need to reduce the leaf sizes making easier to blow out.
Any combination should work. 2 hi lift, 1 hi lift and 1 Gator, or 2 Gators. Some Honda walk behinds already have Ninja blades which are double tip blades. Just note you can't run these blades for cutting grass as it would too much of load for the engine; unless, a higher HP engine is installed. Either it is going to cost more than $30 for a complete set.
Example would be my 42" MTD mower where I went 16.5 hp to 21 hp. There was one drawback in doing this as I was burning up the deck belt and had to upgrade the 1/2" belt to a 5/8" belt but now I can cut 12"+ heavy grass without a problem. Just have slow a little to allow the deck to clear the cuttings. Before I had crawl at the lowest speed to even 6" over grown grass.
Any combination should work. 2 hi lift, 1 hi lift and 1 Gator, or 2 Gators. Some Honda walk behinds already have Ninja blades which are double tip blades. Just note you can't run these blades for cutting grass as it would too much of load for the engine; unless, a higher HP engine is installed. Either it is going to cost more than $30 for a complete set.
Example would be my 42" MTD mower where I went 16.5 hp to 21 hp. There was one drawback in doing this as I was burning up the deck belt and had to upgrade the 1/2" belt to a 5/8" belt but now I can cut 12"+ heavy grass without a problem. Just have slow a little to allow the deck to clear the cuttings. Before I had crawl at the lowest speed to even 6" over grown grass.
#14
J
JimP2014
Your idea to weld seems great. The leaf blade design is already built for you ( the old mower blade ), just weld it. My idea was and without removing any current blades, was to jack up the machine and attach and possibly only a bottom blade perpendicular. The distance between the mower deck and the top side of a regular blade might not be enough. But DO use a clamping mechanism around both sides of existing blades and only have the lower side of the existing blade do the sweeping. This is where something like carbon fiber might be used, but it might break too. Your idea of an existing old deck blade would not break. You would have to make sure nothing goes wrong and starts digging into the dirt on some terrain change. So a blade that is mostly stiff but can bend and not break.
But for your idea just keep the existing blade on the machine and weld 2 sides of another blade cut in half and much shorter. So the 21" blade full length ( leave as is )and then weld say 8" of another blade on one side and the other 8" on the other side. Or these two, 8" pieces could be bolted to the existing blade and only on one side of the existing blade.
Jim
J
JimP2014
What you wrote is a good analysis of the design. My idea was first off you need to be in late fall and the lawn needs to be a very low height already. Only dry leaves should on the lawn. Also do this in batches, do not wait until all leaves have fallen, I don't think you could plow thru say 4" high of leaves - this would most likely put alot of strain on the engine. I"Now gator blades would be a better choice as you need to reduce the leaf sizes making easier to blow out". <-- you don't think full size leaves would make it past the chute or would clog up the other side where is no chute?If not cutting grass you could weld a pair of high lift blades for each spindle at 90 degrees of each other. Welding would insure the blades stay at 90 degrees and not slip. Noting blades with stars would need blade's star removed. That would be the blade farthermost from the spindle mount. This should double the lift and exit pressures. Now gator blades would be a better choice as you need to reduce the leaf sizes making easier to blow out.
Any combination should work. 2 hi lift, 1 hi lift and 1 Gator, or 2 Gators. Some Honda walk behinds already have Ninja blades which are double tip blades. Just note you can't run these blades for cutting grass as it would too much of load for the engine; unless, a higher HP engine is installed. Either it is going to cost more than $30 for a complete set.
Example would be my 42" MTD mower where I went 16.5 hp to 21 hp. There was one drawback in doing this as I was burning up the deck belt and had to upgrade the 1/2" belt to a 5/8" belt but now I can cut 12"+ heavy grass without a problem. Just have slow a little to allow the deck to clear the cuttings. Before I had crawl at the lowest speed to even 6" over grown grass.
Your idea to weld seems great. The leaf blade design is already built for you ( the old mower blade ), just weld it. My idea was and without removing any current blades, was to jack up the machine and attach and possibly only a bottom blade perpendicular. The distance between the mower deck and the top side of a regular blade might not be enough. But DO use a clamping mechanism around both sides of existing blades and only have the lower side of the existing blade do the sweeping. This is where something like carbon fiber might be used, but it might break too. Your idea of an existing old deck blade would not break. You would have to make sure nothing goes wrong and starts digging into the dirt on some terrain change. So a blade that is mostly stiff but can bend and not break.
But for your idea just keep the existing blade on the machine and weld 2 sides of another blade cut in half and much shorter. So the 21" blade full length ( leave as is )and then weld say 8" of another blade on one side and the other 8" on the other side. Or these two, 8" pieces could be bolted to the existing blade and only on one side of the existing blade.
Jim
#15
StarTech
StarTech
Using only a half on one side is going throw everything out balance. Back during the Summer I was restoring a mower that was given back after 10 yrs. While was cutting one blade broke exactly in half leaving one half still attached. I thought the mower was going come out from under the mower; vibrating like heck. The noise even woke up my neighbor that has a hearing problem.
In 16 yrs of repairs it was first time I ever seen a blade to break in half.
In 16 yrs of repairs it was first time I ever seen a blade to break in half.
#16
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Yeah I got you on that you need to keep balance.Using only a half on one side is going throw everything out balance. Back during the Summer I was restoring a mower that was given back after 10 yrs. While was cutting one blade broke exactly in half leaving one half still attached. I thought the mower was going come out from under the mower; vibrating like heck. The noise even woke up my neighbor that has a hearing problem.
In 16 yrs of repairs it was first time I ever seen a blade to break in half.
#17
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Wait maybe what I'm saying is different I'm saying for a single blade that's already on the machine you would weld an 8-in piece on one side say the far left and then an 8-in piece on the other side say the far right and they both point straight down towards the ground that's what I'm saying is this what you read?Yeah I got you on that you need to keep balance.
#18
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Just to be clear on what I think would work is take an existing blade off the machine which is perfectly balanced + put it in a vise so that the star is in the middle of the vise and then heat both ends very hot and then rotate the blade because it's melted and twist it 90° and let it cool I'm not saying you can do this but it would be like that so you're not adding any more material to it you just reshaping the blade.Wait maybe what I'm saying is different I'm saying for a single blade that's already on the machine you would weld an 8-in piece on one side say the far left and then an 8-in piece on the other side say the far right and they both point straight down towards the ground that's what I'm saying is this what you read?
#19
A
Auto Doc's
A
Auto Doc's
A pull behind leaf sweeper with a hopper works wonders.
Deck blades spin to fast (even at low idle) to gently pick up fallen leaves.
Deck blades spin to fast (even at low idle) to gently pick up fallen leaves.
#20
J
JimP2014
For years I have used the typical riding mower with just regular high lift blades that if you make a pass say going north to south you can push everything to the West and you keep making that north to south pass it does work but it takes forever the only thing I'm suggesting is somehow getting the blade so that the angle's different so when you make a pass the actual leaves get blown like 20 ft instead of 3 or 4 ft I'm not against chopping up leaves, but once they get chopped because they have smaller surface area you can't throw them as far out of a typical mower deck but you did give me an idea is to remove the discharge chute that plastic thing and see if that actually can throw them farther without needing any kind of modification to the existing blades maybe not completely remove the discharge chute but kind of like raising it up somehow so it still protects your feet.
Jim
J
JimP2014
Auto dock I do appreciate your comment but I was thinking like a $30 solution to try and move leaves a lot better than typical mower deck blades.A pull behind leaf sweeper with a hopper works wonders.
Deck blades spin to fast (even at low idle) to gently pick up fallen leaves.
For years I have used the typical riding mower with just regular high lift blades that if you make a pass say going north to south you can push everything to the West and you keep making that north to south pass it does work but it takes forever the only thing I'm suggesting is somehow getting the blade so that the angle's different so when you make a pass the actual leaves get blown like 20 ft instead of 3 or 4 ft I'm not against chopping up leaves, but once they get chopped because they have smaller surface area you can't throw them as far out of a typical mower deck but you did give me an idea is to remove the discharge chute that plastic thing and see if that actually can throw them farther without needing any kind of modification to the existing blades maybe not completely remove the discharge chute but kind of like raising it up somehow so it still protects your feet.
Jim
#21
MyGrassHasCrabs
MyGrassHasCrabs
I have a yard full of trees and a wife that insists on a lawn, although the two are becoming more incompatible as the trees have grown over the past 25 years.
Too many leaves to mulch in-place in our yard and still have grass.
There have been many discussions and a few attempts to devise a "skirt" that surrounds the mower deck such that you'd keep the high-lift blades at the highest setting (usually 4") and it would still pick up leaves. None of the attempts I've seen have borne fruit, though, and it's still a painful process to deal with leaves every fall.
So, at this point, I have resorted to a couple of helpers. One is a leaf vacuum, such as the pull-behind Trak-Vac I have used for many years now. It sucks the leaves up through the mower deck (yes, the deck must be engaged too, so there's still spinning blades involved and either setting the cutting height lower than 4" to get all the residue) and into a spinning mulcher driven by a 9 HP B&S engine, then into a 55-gallon rubbermade drum that has to be emptied very often depending on leaf density. There is another option called a "Cyclone Rake" (https://www.cyclonerake.com/) that has gotten excellent reviews, but I've never tried it.
The second tool is one that I bought last year - I call it "The Beast" - it's the Echo PB-9010T, 220 MPH 1110 CFM blower. It's expensive (around $700) but makes (relatively) quick work out of a mountain of leaves - a real time saver, although it is a "beast" in more ways than one.
Good luck from a long-time leaf wrangler with no magic solution (so far).
Too many leaves to mulch in-place in our yard and still have grass.
There have been many discussions and a few attempts to devise a "skirt" that surrounds the mower deck such that you'd keep the high-lift blades at the highest setting (usually 4") and it would still pick up leaves. None of the attempts I've seen have borne fruit, though, and it's still a painful process to deal with leaves every fall.
So, at this point, I have resorted to a couple of helpers. One is a leaf vacuum, such as the pull-behind Trak-Vac I have used for many years now. It sucks the leaves up through the mower deck (yes, the deck must be engaged too, so there's still spinning blades involved and either setting the cutting height lower than 4" to get all the residue) and into a spinning mulcher driven by a 9 HP B&S engine, then into a 55-gallon rubbermade drum that has to be emptied very often depending on leaf density. There is another option called a "Cyclone Rake" (https://www.cyclonerake.com/) that has gotten excellent reviews, but I've never tried it.
The second tool is one that I bought last year - I call it "The Beast" - it's the Echo PB-9010T, 220 MPH 1110 CFM blower. It's expensive (around $700) but makes (relatively) quick work out of a mountain of leaves - a real time saver, although it is a "beast" in more ways than one.
Good luck from a long-time leaf wrangler with no magic solution (so far).
#22
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Thanks for the reply MyGrassHasCrabs!
I call it leaf farming.
I was out yesterday testing a simple idea and that was to raise the discharge chute about 6" (so it is an angle up ) to get more leaves flying out from under the mower deck. Not enough leaves, not that I want leaves. Some years we get lucky with a nice wind driven rainstorm out of the East or NE.
I see what you have, " the Echo PB-9010T " for me the more stuff means the more stuff to repair, so swapping or modifying mower deck blades in the long run is the best solution for me. Your luck may vary. Someone posted Gator blades and I might go this route. I have no problem with keeping leaves in place ground up, I just figure this would somehow break the LT2000 again in some unforeseen way. In a previous post I think Forest said the new spec and new bolts for 19.5HP B&S is around 20 ft. lbs. <--- this might be key to all of this so far no white smoke.
Thanks for the info,
Jim
I call it leaf farming.
I was out yesterday testing a simple idea and that was to raise the discharge chute about 6" (so it is an angle up ) to get more leaves flying out from under the mower deck. Not enough leaves, not that I want leaves. Some years we get lucky with a nice wind driven rainstorm out of the East or NE.
I see what you have, " the Echo PB-9010T " for me the more stuff means the more stuff to repair, so swapping or modifying mower deck blades in the long run is the best solution for me. Your luck may vary. Someone posted Gator blades and I might go this route. I have no problem with keeping leaves in place ground up, I just figure this would somehow break the LT2000 again in some unforeseen way. In a previous post I think Forest said the new spec and new bolts for 19.5HP B&S is around 20 ft. lbs. <--- this might be key to all of this so far no white smoke.
Thanks for the info,
Jim
#23
MyGrassHasCrabs
MyGrassHasCrabs
Jim,
If you're ok mulching in place, give these blades a look. I've had them since the beginning of the 2021 season and mowed and mulched a couple of acres a week during the season - the thing that is new to me is that these have kept a great edge without sharpening. I have used lots of other blades and sharpened at least a couple of times per season, but these hold an edge like none I've ever used on my JD LA105.
If you're ok mulching in place, give these blades a look. I've had them since the beginning of the 2021 season and mowed and mulched a couple of acres a week during the season - the thing that is new to me is that these have kept a great edge without sharpening. I have used lots of other blades and sharpened at least a couple of times per season, but these hold an edge like none I've ever used on my JD LA105.
Rotary Copperhead Mulching Mower Blades Fit John Deere Models D100 LA100 Replaces OEM GX22151 GY20850 For 42 Inch Deck (pack of 2)
#24
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Thanks I will check these out.Jim,
If you're ok mulching in place, give these blades a look. I've had them since the beginning of the 2021 season and mowed and mulched a couple of acres a week during the season - the thing that is new to me is that these have kept a great edge without sharpening. I have used lots of other blades and sharpened at least a couple of times per season, but these hold an edge like none I've ever used on my JD LA105.
Rotary Copperhead Mulching Mower Blades Fit John Deere Models D100 LA100 Replaces OEM GX22151 GY20850 For 42 Inch Deck (pack of 2)
View attachment 71968
#25
C
Chuter
C
Chuter
Interesting discussion, but I think putting paddles on the blades will try to send air, and therefore leaves off the tips of the blades, rather than out the chute. The two or three blades will fight each other rather than direct the flow out the chute. I think the typical blower is fully enclosed except for an inlet near the center, and an outlet at the edge, like a squirrel cage fan. It doesn't run leaves through it, it runs air through it and chases the leaves away. To approximate that with a mower deck, you'd need to enclose the bottom, and maybe only use one blade. And provide an air inlet. A better approach may be to just use your deck as is, but don't run over the leaves, just chase them with the discharge air. Like cleaning a sidewalk. At some point, you are still going to overwhelm the ability to chase leaves, and have to pick them up. At least I always did with a hand held blower. And with the mower deck you lose the ability to cycle the air flow up and down. I've never used one of those fancy walk behind blower, but I have to believe they work similarly. But what do I know. To settle this, somebody's going to have to build one! Not me, by the way.
#26
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
Hi thanks for replying and I read your reply so think of this if you're just using high lift blades and your lawn is basically cut but you're going over say a thin layer of leaves the leaves will shoot out of the discharge chute there's no doubt about it they shoot out maybe a couple feet maybe more depending on how dry they are and all these other factors so it works with no modifications so you're implying that with some modifications you can't increase the distance those leaves are being thrown you're basically saying it would work in the opposite direction and I don't buy that.Interesting discussion, but I think putting paddles on the blades will try to send air, and therefore leaves off the tips of the blades, rather than out the chute. The two or three blades will fight each other rather than direct the flow out the chute. I think the typical blower is fully enclosed except for an inlet near the center, and an outlet at the edge, like a squirrel cage fan. It doesn't run leaves through it, it runs air through it and chases the leaves away. To approximate that with a mower deck, you'd need to enclose the bottom, and maybe only use one blade. And provide an air inlet. A better approach may be to just use your deck as is, but don't run over the leaves, just chase them with the discharge air. Like cleaning a sidewalk. At some point, you are still going to overwhelm the ability to chase leaves, and have to pick them up. At least I always did with a hand held blower. And with the mower deck you lose the ability to cycle the air flow up and down. I've never used one of those fancy walk behind blower, but I have to believe they work similarly. But what do I know. To settle this, somebody's going to have to build one! Not me, by the way.
Jim
#27
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
I mean maybe take the blade and curve the surface to some angle so basically a high lift blade the main axis of the blade and the blade itself let's say is parallel to the ground clearly speaking what if you just tilted it slightly doesn't have to be 90° perpendicular but just say 20°. What would happen I think it might improve the amount or should I say the distance the leaves are being thrown and that's really what my objective is. So 20° means assume the angle right now of the high lift blade is 0° and just tilt it 20°. That's what I mean.Hi thanks for replying and I read your reply so think of this if you're just using high lift blades and your lawn is basically cut but you're going over say a thin layer of leaves the leaves will shoot out of the discharge chute there's no doubt about it they shoot out maybe a couple feet maybe more depending on how dry they are and all these other factors so it works with no modifications so you're implying that with some modifications you can't increase the distance those leaves are being thrown you're basically saying it would work in the opposite direction and I don't buy that.
Jim
Jim
#28
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
So initially my post was about the something like this exist and apparently it doesn't but my idea was take a typical flat blade that spins parallel to the ground and then rotate to last say 8 in on each side of a single blade maybe you go 20° clockwise maybe you go 20° counterclockwise maybe you do a split where one side goes 20° clockwise the section immediately below it goes 20° counterclockwise you know maybe someone who works with like WindTunnel software I'm guessing I don't actually use that but see what would happen or build it but I assure you regular high lift blades can clean say 200 by 100-ft section of lawn perfectly without a single leaf any place but it takes forever and I was hoping that something was out there that could just move them a lot quicker out of the discharge shoe and further for each pass.I mean maybe take the blade and curve the surface to some angle so basically a high lift blade the main axis of the blade and the blade itself let's say is parallel to the ground clearly speaking what if you just tilted it slightly doesn't have to be 90° perpendicular but just say 20°. What would happen I think it might improve the amount or should I say the distance the leaves are being thrown and that's really what my objective is. So 20° means assume the angle right now of the high lift blade is 0° and just tilt it 20°. That's what I mean.
Jim
Jim
#29
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
And just another thought about this project so you could just ignore the fact you have 20 horsepower riding mower that can spin blades incredibly fast and basically cut through high grass or anything so you just put that aside and you go and grab a 5 horsepower mounted on your back leaf blower now why would you do that you could take advantage of the power you already have maybe get rid of the blades but you have a spindle on either side and you have an enormous amount of horsepower but you can't figure out how to blow leaves out of that shoot not I don't work in engineering for this kind of design but it's just crazy that someone can't figure that out they have to resort to getting a backpack leaf blower which is five times less power than the power in a riding lawn mower engine on average let's say.So initially my post was about the something like this exist and apparently it doesn't but my idea was take a typical flat blade that spins parallel to the ground and then rotate to last say 8 in on each side of a single blade maybe you go 20° clockwise maybe you go 20° counterclockwise maybe you do a split where one side goes 20° clockwise the section immediately below it goes 20° counterclockwise you know maybe someone who works with like WindTunnel software I'm guessing I don't actually use that but see what would happen or build it but I assure you regular high lift blades can clean say 200 by 100-ft section of lawn perfectly without a single leaf any place but it takes forever and I was hoping that something was out there that could just move them a lot quicker out of the discharge shoe and further for each pass.
Jim
Jim
#30
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
Or the other idea would be the way a leaf blower actually does work so you have an engine and must power some sort of fan and that fan blows air through a tube and that's what moves leaves.
So instead of using some sort of modified mower blades that rotate and take advantage of the horsepower from the engine of the riding mower and somehow Force air out of the existing mower deck chute. So it would be something like taking a leaf blower turning it on its side I suppose squishing it and have a tube that would attach to the mower deck frame right where it exits for the grass clippings so on mines on the right hand side and it's an opening and then the plastic chute fits on top of that so the blades are never exposed.
Jim
So instead of using some sort of modified mower blades that rotate and take advantage of the horsepower from the engine of the riding mower and somehow Force air out of the existing mower deck chute. So it would be something like taking a leaf blower turning it on its side I suppose squishing it and have a tube that would attach to the mower deck frame right where it exits for the grass clippings so on mines on the right hand side and it's an opening and then the plastic chute fits on top of that so the blades are never exposed.
Jim
#31
J
JimP2014
J
JimP2014
It might be tough to follow above but here is the most basic design concepts I have two different designs one is to use essentially the existing mower deck drive system to power modified blades the other is to completely replace the two blades and have a system similar to a handheld leaf blower. And for the handheld leaf blower type of system the leaves would always be to the right of the discharge chute if you run over leaves probably nothing would happen with them.
Jim
Jim
Attachments
#32
P
Peva
One morning, got called with the captain to a crash site at which, while the decorated Viet Nam-war veteran instructor and the Navy student pilot were doing a simulated failed-engine emergency auto-rotate landing, one of the pins about which the two blades rotated in their cyclic motion on the main rotor hub broke in two, so one of the two blades flew off (radially). The helicopter immediately disintegrated in the air from the extreme out-of-balance condition - as you can imagine. Of course, both died. (I also drove the wife and father-in-law of the instructor at the funeral - sad and uncomfortable.)
The entire fleet of that model of helicopter was grounded for an investigation in which they found several other pins with fatigue cracks.
Sorry for this downer post, but I'm getting older and your post reminded me of that incident. Thank you for indulging me.
P
Peva
I'm going off topic here, but that reminded me of when I was the driver in the Navy for a captain who was over two training fields (Whiting and Ellison near Milton, FL) - one of which was for Bell helicopter pilot training at the time.Using only a half on one side is going throw everything out balance. Back during the Summer I was restoring a mower that was given back after 10 yrs. While was cutting one blade broke exactly in half leaving one half still attached. I thought the mower was going come out from under the mower; vibrating like heck. The noise even woke up my neighbor that has a hearing problem.
In 16 yrs of repairs it was first time I ever seen a blade to break in half.
One morning, got called with the captain to a crash site at which, while the decorated Viet Nam-war veteran instructor and the Navy student pilot were doing a simulated failed-engine emergency auto-rotate landing, one of the pins about which the two blades rotated in their cyclic motion on the main rotor hub broke in two, so one of the two blades flew off (radially). The helicopter immediately disintegrated in the air from the extreme out-of-balance condition - as you can imagine. Of course, both died. (I also drove the wife and father-in-law of the instructor at the funeral - sad and uncomfortable.)
The entire fleet of that model of helicopter was grounded for an investigation in which they found several other pins with fatigue cracks.
Sorry for this downer post, but I'm getting older and your post reminded me of that incident. Thank you for indulging me.
#33
J
JimP2014
Jim
J
JimP2014
I'm going off topic here, but that reminded me of when I was the driver in the Navy for a captain who was over two training fields (Whiting and Ellison near Milton, FL) - one of which was for Bell helicopter pilot training at the time.
One morning, got called with the captain to a crash site at which, while the decorated Viet Nam-war veteran instructor and the Navy student pilot were doing a simulated failed-engine emergency auto-rotate landing, one of the pins about which the two blades rotated in their cyclic motion on the main rotor hub broke in two, so one of the two blades flew off (radially). The helicopter immediately disintegrated in the air from the extreme out-of-balance condition - as you can imagine. Of course, both died. (I also drove the wife and father-in-law of the instructor at the funeral - sad and uncomfortable.)
The entire fleet of that model of helicopter was grounded for an investigation in which they found several other pins with fatigue cracks.
Sorry for this downer post, but I'm getting older and your post reminded me of that incident. Thank you for indulging me.
I was not clear in my word description of what I was trying to do, but with those two hand drawings I hope it makes it more clear the one on the left is actually the one that I think would work the best just change the attack angle if you will because using stock high lift blades does throw the grass clippings pretty far and also leaves during the fall so my idea was just to modify those in some way and a balanced way that would increase the exit velocity of stuff coming out from underneath the mower deck.I'm going off topic here, but that reminded me of when I was the driver in the Navy for a captain who was over two training fields (Whiting and Ellison near Milton, FL) - one of which was for Bell helicopter pilot training at the time.
One morning, got called with the captain to a crash site at which, while the decorated Viet Nam-war veteran instructor and the Navy student pilot were doing a simulated failed-engine emergency auto-rotate landing, one of the pins about which the two blades rotated in their cyclic motion on the main rotor hub broke in two, so one of the two blades flew off (radially). The helicopter immediately disintegrated in the air from the extreme out-of-balance condition - as you can imagine. Of course, both died. (I also drove the wife and father-in-law of the instructor at the funeral - sad and uncomfortable.)
The entire fleet of that model of helicopter was grounded for an investigation in which they found several other pins with fatigue cracks.
Sorry for this downer post, but I'm getting older and your post reminded me of that incident. Thank you for indulging me.
Jim
#34
sgkent
sgkent
the blades need to be an airfoil. They move air up and the deck is shaped to flow the air out the chute. New air moves in from underneath and lifts the clippings and leaves. They make machines that are just air movers, and are basically push leaf blowers. Someone might make one that is drivable. The issue is going to be cost effectiveness. It gets used once a year when the leaves drop. Anything else is easily handled with a hand held. Street sweepers act on a different principle, they use spring blades to sweep up items. Any blade you make must act as an airfoil and not a paddle or it will just move leaves around and around. It's the airflow created by the air foil quality of the blades that moves the leaves, not the blades. They will mulch if the blade is designed to allow slower movement of the leaves. The only reason NOT to mulch is if you are trying to clean the lawn and NOT drop weed seed heads back on the lawn. The Great Plains were such great soil because thousands of years of leaves and grasses decomposed and made top soils that were many feet thick. When we don't mulch the front lawn for example, and collect the clippings, I can see the loss of nutrients in the soil tests, especially water soluble minerals like Potassium and Nitrogen.
#35
J
JimP2014
Good point on the airfoil, I see what you are saying. I have never seen a simulation or a real video of how that happens even for just high lift blades, but very cool.
Thanks for your insight SGKent!
J
JimP2014
"The issue is going to be cost effectiveness. It gets used once a year when the leaves drop. Anything else is easily handled with a hand held." I originally felt that a good PRICE point and assuming they work really well, would be $25 to $30. I would pay that. You can drive around on your existing riding mover and move leaves like a walk behind or even a leaf blower.the blades need to be an airfoil. They move air up and the deck is shaped to flow the air out the chute. New air moves in from underneath and lifts the clippings and leaves. They make machines that are just air movers, and are basically push leaf blowers. Someone might make one that is drivable. The issue is going to be cost effectiveness. It gets used once a year when the leaves drop. Anything else is easily handled with a hand held. Street sweepers act on a different principle, they use spring blades to sweep up items. Any blade you make must act as an airfoil and not a paddle or it will just move leaves around and around. It's the airflow created by the air foil quality of the blades that moves the leaves, not the blades. They will mulch if the blade is designed to allow slower movement of the leaves. The only reason NOT to mulch is if you are trying to clean the lawn and NOT drop weed seed heads back on the lawn. The Great Plains were such great soil because thousands of years of leaves and grasses decomposed and made top soils that were many feet thick. When we don't mulch the front lawn for example, and collect the clippings, I can see the loss of nutrients in the soil tests, especially water soluble minerals like Potassium and Nitrogen.
Good point on the airfoil, I see what you are saying. I have never seen a simulation or a real video of how that happens even for just high lift blades, but very cool.
Thanks for your insight SGKent!
#36
A
Auto Doc's
Back in the 80's Snapper 26"-30" RER mowers had bolt on "high lift" wings for the single blade intended for high lift bagger operations. The decks acted like a cutter and vacuum cleaner all in one when using the bagger option.
Those would clean up and chop heavy fall leaves easily.
Now, most people want much wider multi-blade decks, and they are not nearly as efficient without a vacuum assist attachment on the decks.
A
Auto Doc's
Hi Chuter,Interesting discussion, but I think putting paddles on the blades will try to send air, and therefore leaves off the tips of the blades, rather than out the chute. The two or three blades will fight each other rather than direct the flow out the chute. I think the typical blower is fully enclosed except for an inlet near the center, and an outlet at the edge, like a squirrel cage fan. It doesn't run leaves through it, it runs air through it and chases the leaves away. To approximate that with a mower deck, you'd need to enclose the bottom, and maybe only use one blade. And provide an air inlet. A better approach may be to just use your deck as is, but don't run over the leaves, just chase them with the discharge air. Like cleaning a sidewalk. At some point, you are still going to overwhelm the ability to chase leaves, and have to pick them up. At least I always did with a hand held blower. And with the mower deck you lose the ability to cycle the air flow up and down. I've never used one of those fancy walk behind blower, but I have to believe they work similarly. But what do I know. To settle this, somebody's going to have to build one! Not me, by the way.
Back in the 80's Snapper 26"-30" RER mowers had bolt on "high lift" wings for the single blade intended for high lift bagger operations. The decks acted like a cutter and vacuum cleaner all in one when using the bagger option.
Those would clean up and chop heavy fall leaves easily.
Now, most people want much wider multi-blade decks, and they are not nearly as efficient without a vacuum assist attachment on the decks.