Leever2000
Member
This log splitter is vert
Lawn Mower to Log splitter
- Thread starter Leever2000
- Start date
Leever2000
Member
Thanks all plan to swap this weekend and let you all know the outcome.
Leever2000
Member
Just got the time to swap last weekend, the swap is complete with one exception the LS sleeve/collar that mates to the pump is soaking (cannot get the little allen pin to loosen) in WD40.
Leever2000
Member
Having problems removing the coupling and key from the donor engine. Thinking about buying but don't know size. See pics
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
1) is the grub screw removed from on to of the key.
2) tap the key from both ends in & out till you can knock it right through.
Degrease the pto shaft with the strongest degreases you cah find amd make sure a lot of it goes through the key way.
Now liberal applications of a rust remover.
IT must be a strait remover and not a combined remover and paint prep.
Naval jelly is the goo if it is still available
If the coupling is NOT made from zinc or aluminium
Some Hydrachloric acid from a pool shop ( muriatic to some ) will strip the rust off and allow the coupling to come free of the shaft.
Brute force
If the coupling is a plain tube then polish the pot shaft between the coupling and the crank case .
Remove the blower housing and find a socket that is a good fit over the flywheel nut
Tip it upside down on a Hard surface so that the weight is on the socket then give the coupling a bash down further onto the shaft.
When it is on to the clean section polish the section where it was .
From here it ahould tap off by supporting the entire weight by the coupling and taping on the shaft.
2) tap the key from both ends in & out till you can knock it right through.
Degrease the pto shaft with the strongest degreases you cah find amd make sure a lot of it goes through the key way.
Now liberal applications of a rust remover.
IT must be a strait remover and not a combined remover and paint prep.
Naval jelly is the goo if it is still available
If the coupling is NOT made from zinc or aluminium
Some Hydrachloric acid from a pool shop ( muriatic to some ) will strip the rust off and allow the coupling to come free of the shaft.
Brute force
If the coupling is a plain tube then polish the pot shaft between the coupling and the crank case .
Remove the blower housing and find a socket that is a good fit over the flywheel nut
Tip it upside down on a Hard surface so that the weight is on the socket then give the coupling a bash down further onto the shaft.
When it is on to the clean section polish the section where it was .
From here it ahould tap off by supporting the entire weight by the coupling and taping on the shaft.
Leever2000
Member
Assume I should remove the allen screw first before using jaw puller? Will turn right side up and soak the shaft in tranny fluid. When trying to remove the allen screw I am using a 5/32 although seems to be not a perfect fit. If go to a 9/64 it is to big and of coarse the metric side a 4mm too big and a 3mm too small.
dougand3
Well-Known Member
Surely back off the the Allen retainer screw first. If it's seized, can try a screw extractor. Heat helps, too. Try metric size Allen wrench. Not optimal, but you can wrap a paper towel around a slightly smaller wrench. You'll probably bugger up the screw enough to need a new one.
Leever2000
Member
Ok I removed the coupling but the shaft for the replacement is shorter than needed about an inch and a half. Is there an extension or am I out of luck?