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Lawn Boy z340 zero turn parts/repairs HELP!

#1

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

I just bought a Lawn Boy 42" z340 hlx zero turn and I'm working on getting it fixed up. It has the Honda GXV530 engine. I've gotten it to fire up and it idles great but has some problems that need to be fixed to be usable.
The hydro's make a horrible noise when moving around. The previous owner said one side was going bad, (that's why it's been sitting for 1.5 years before he put it up for sale)
The other issue is when you try to move in any direction (PTO not engaged), the motor will bog down and act like it wants to die.

My main question is does anyone know if any of these main parts are interchangeable with other brands? Finding any info about these online is impossible, much less finding parts. I know Toro bought Lawn Boy so I'm hoping their main parts are the same? I'd like to try to fix/replace the hydros myself if possible vs taking it to a shop.
If anyone has any info at all on these, that would be greatly appreciated! Thanks


#2

R

Rivets

Please post the model and serial numbers for the unit. This will help us help you.


#3

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

Rivets said:
Please post the model and serial numbers for the unit. This will help us help you.
Click to expand...
Model Number : 81245
Serial Number : 250000549

Thanks for the reply


#4

R

Rivets

This website should give you some help.

Parts | Lawnboy

www.shoplawnboy.com www.shoplawnboy.com


#5

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

I've been poking around on their website. A lot of parts are discontinued. I guess its hard to find exactly what parts I'll need until i pull the axle and open up the transmissions. What all goes into rebuilding the hydros? Do they make rebuilt kits?


#6

StarTech

StarTech

the hydros looks like Hydro Gear EZTs. Look on the transaxke to see if you can find the Hydro Gear model number.


#7

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

StarTech said:
the hydros looks like Hydro Gear EZTs. Look on the transaxke to see if you can find the Hydro Gear model number.
Click to expand...
The first tag is for the left side hydro and the second if for the right (If the pics post in order.) The pic with the stamped numbers is also on the right side. Not sure if that is helpful or not. Also please excuse the bad pic of the left side with missing #'s. I couldnt wedge my phone up in there well enough.

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#8

StarTech

StarTech

ZA-DMBB-3D5A-2CXX
ZA-DMBB-3D5A-20XX

Hydro Gear EZT transalxes. Most parts should be available through the Hydro Gear parts distributor, just got a source that has access.

EZT Service IPL Pay attention to the decode of model specific codes above.

EZT (ZT2100, ZT2200) Service Manual

Just note these must be worked on in a very clean environment. Please clean the unit(s) as well as you can before disassembly.


#9

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

Rivets said:
Please post the model and serial numbers for the unit. This will help us help you.
Click to expand...
For hydro parts, need model of it on it.


#10

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

StarTech said:
ZA-DMBB-3D5A-2CXX
ZA-DMBB-3D5A-20XX

Hydro Gear EZT transalxes. Most parts should be available through the Hydro Gear parts distributor, just got a source that has access.

EZT Service IPL Pay attention to the decode of model specific codes above.

EZT (ZT2100, ZT2200) Service Manual

Just note these must be worked on in a very clean environment. Please clean the unit(s) as well as you can before disassembly.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the information. I cannot get the service manual link to load. I did find the "current" model numbers that lined up with the numbers I sent. Does this tell me that I have zt2100 or zt2200? If so, would a googled "zt2100 seal kit" work for mine or would it have to be more specific and instead have to match the long part number? Sorry for the stupid questions. Also, the previous owner said that the original 3/4" axles were replaced with 1" axles. I'm not sure if that changes anything


#11

StarTech

StarTech

Lawn-Boy43 said:
Thank you for the information. I cannot get the service manual link to load. I did find the "current" model numbers that lined up with the numbers I sent. Does this tell me that I have zt2100 or zt2200? If so, would a googled "zt2100 seal kit" work for mine or would it have to be more specific and instead have to match the long part number? Sorry for the stupid questions. Also, the previous owner said that the original 3/4" axles were replaced with 1" axles. I'm not sure if that changes anything
Click to expand...
Double the link I post and I am able to download it. It might restricted in your area.

As for the seal kit it listed on page of the IPL and is Hydro Gear PN 70853.


#12

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

StarTech said:
Double the link I post and I am able to download it. It might restricted in your area.

As for the seal kit it listed on page of the IPL and is Hydro Gear PN 70853.
Click to expand...
Awesome. Thank you. As far as knowing if it's the 2100 or 2200, would I be able to tell by if the fan blades are on top or below the pulley? That seems to be an obvious difference in the manual.


#13

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

So I crawled up under the mower to look around again and I noticed the belt on the right side (side that runs slower, sometimes not at all), has a lot of play in it compared to the left side. Does anyone know if you have to drop the transaxle to change a belt? Could something else be causing the belt to be so loose? It's pretty crammed under there and hard to see much of anything.


#14

StarTech

StarTech

Yes should be able without dropping the transaxle though you probably will need to remove the electric clutch if it is like some ZTRs I work on. Also check the tensioning idler arm for binding and that the idler pulley bearing are okay. The spring hold the tension on the idler arm probably will need to be removed.


#15

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

StarTech said:
Yes should be able without dropping the transaxle though you probably will need to remove the electric clutch if it is like some ZTRs I work on. Also check the tensioning idler arm for binding and that the idler pulley bearing are okay. The spring hold the tension on the idler arm probably will need to be removed.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I'll check it out


#16

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43 said:
Thanks! I'll check it out
Click to expand...
I have a new belt coming in the mail later this week. Is there a chance that all it needs is a new belt and nothing internally has to be done to the Hydro? The symptoms were that the right side was getting slower and whiner and now the right side just doesn't budge.


#17

R

Rivets

Make sure that the tensioner arm is moving freely when you install the new belt. Common problem is that dirt builds up between the arm and frame. Also check for sloppiness in the pivot point of the arm. When was the last time you replaced the belts. I recommend about every three to five years and replace both at the same time.


#18

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

Rivets said:
Make sure that the tensioner arm is moving freely when you install the new belt. Common problem is that dirt builds up between the arm and frame. Also check for sloppiness in the pivot point of the arm. When was the last time you replaced the belts. I recommend about every three to five years and replace both at the same time.
Click to expand...
I'll have to order another one then. I just bought the mower a week or so ago. The main belt that goes to the cut deck has a few sizable chunks missing but still tight. I know that the first time there's any kind of big load on it while cutting, it'll snap but replacing that is lower on the list until I can get the mower to move. Holding the new and old belt over each other, they were virtually the same size. I installed the new one anyways and it was just as loose as the old one. The spring is fine for the tensioner because it holds the belt all the way against the main pulley while the belt still seems loose. The pivot point doesnt have any noticable slop. I'm stumped. Maybe it's normal to be that loose? It's definitely looser than the left side. I can turn the right side pulley/fan pretty easily by hand while the tractor is off. When I move the right handlebar in either direction, the fan over the Hydro does spin but there is no sign of any effort from the Hydro. Not even a whine. It's hard to tell if there's any kind of slipping with the belt on the pulley. It almost seems like something in the hydro is disconnected or something sheared off? Still, i dont think that would solve my possible loose belt problem though but maybe that issue is just in my head.


#19

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43 said:
I'll have to order another one then. I just bought the mower a week or so ago. The main belt that goes to the cut deck has a few sizable chunks missing but still tight. I know that the first time there's any kind of big load on it while cutting, it'll snap but replacing that is lower on the list until I can get the mower to move. Holding the new and old belt over each other, they were virtually the same size. I installed the new one anyways and it was just as loose as the old one. The spring is fine for the tensioner because it holds the belt all the way against the main pulley while the belt still seems loose. The pivot point doesnt have any noticable slop. I'm stumped. Maybe it's normal to be that loose? It's definitely looser than the left side. I can turn the right side pulley/fan pretty easily by hand while the tractor is off. When I move the right handlebar in either direction, the fan over the Hydro does spin but there is no sign of any effort from the Hydro. Not even a whine. It's hard to tell if there's any kind of slipping with the belt on the pulley. It almost seems like something in the hydro is disconnected or something sheared off? Still, i dont think that would solve my possible loose belt problem though but maybe that issue is just in my head.
Click to expand...
Anyone have any advice on what I should do? Am I going to have to crack open the Hydro? If so, what should I be looking for given the symptoms?


#20

B

bertsmobile1

What makes you think the old belt, spring , tension pulley were correct to start with ?
Where did you get the parts from ?
Are you sure the belt run is correct ?
Are the pulleys worn?
Some model numbers for the mower will help those who want to help you


#21

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

bertsmobile1 said:
What makes you think the old belt, spring , tension pulley were correct to start with ?
Where did you get the parts from ?
Are you sure the belt run is correct ?
Are the pulleys worn?
Some model numbers for the mower will help those who want to help you
Click to expand...
The model number is 81245 and serial number is 250000549. The belt seemed visibly looser than the left side so I figured it needed to be replaced. Are you asking if the belt, spring, and tensioner were the right parts or if they were in working order? The belt was from ebay. I don't think the belt could be ran any other way but I'll check tomorrow. How would I tell if the pulleys are worn?


#22

B

bertsmobile1

Lawn-Boy43 said:
The model number is 81245 and serial number is 250000549. The belt seemed visibly looser than the left side so I figured it needed to be replaced. Are you asking if the belt, spring, and tensioner were the right parts or if they were in working order? The belt was from ebay. I don't think the belt could be ran any other way but I'll check tomorrow. How would I tell if the pulleys are worn?
Click to expand...
Well there is 10% chance the belt is right if you bought it from ebay
And of course if you have not owned the mower from new you have no idea if the parts on there are the correct parts
That was my point
So just because the new & old belts are the same length, that is no use if it should have a 86 1/4" belt but the previous owner fitted an A 87 because it was cheaper .

To see if a pulley is worn, look at the very bottom of the V
If it is shinny & polished then the belt has been running on the root because the belt was worn too thin or the pulley has worn too wide
Tension pulleys go on the "push" side of the belt run from the engine because that is where the slack will be greatest
On a lot of ZTR's the pulley can be put on the wrong run ( the pull side ) because of the layout


#23

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

bertsmobile1 said:
Well there is 10% chance the belt is right if you bought it from ebay
And of course if you have not owned the mower from new you have no idea if the parts on there are the correct parts
That was my point
So just because the new & old belts are the same length, that is no use if it should have a 86 1/4" belt but the previous owner fitted an A 87 because it was cheaper .

To see if a pulley is worn, look at the very bottom of the V
If it is shinny & polished then the belt has been running on the root because the belt was worn too thin or the pulley has worn too wide
Tension pulleys go on the "push" side of the belt run from the engine because that is where the slack will be greatest
On a lot of ZTR's the pulley can be put on the wrong run ( the pull side ) because of the layout
Click to expand...
The guy I bought it from was an older gentleman who has had it since new. He kept all the manuals, spare key, and even came with the original safety training DVD. With that in mind, I think I could rule out the possibility of him purposely or accidentally installing a new, incorrect part. There is a part number on the belt that I bought and it is the same part number that is on Lawn Boy's website. As far as I can tell, the belt is ran correctly. I really don't see how it could be ran any other way that would make sense. Upon further inspection, regardless of how loose the belt may seem, it does turn the pulley on top of the transmission. With this in mind, I'm leaning away from belt issues and more towards something wrong with the actual right side transmission.


#24

B

bertsmobile1

Thank you that clears up a lot
You have to appreciate that there are a lot of possible causes that we can not eliminate because we are not there standing beside you drinking your beer .
I will leave your post up on the screen so it can bounce around in my noggin all day and see what craws out of the detritus


#25

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

Does anyone have any suggestions on where to buy internal hydro parts such as the center section? I haven't taken the transaxle apart yet but I'm trying to get most of my ducks in a row before I embark on this project.


#26

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

So I finally cracked open the bad hydro assuming/ hoping the center section would be shot and the fix would be a simple part swap but it looks to be in good shape. Everything passed the fingernail test, nothing really caught my nail. Now you can see circular marks on both ends of the section but, again, nothing feels rough. I don't know if the microscopic sized cracks/ grooves would be enough to make the right side stop working. I don't know what else really goes bad on these things. Im stumped. When i drained the oil, i got about 1.5qt out of it which tells me that it really wasn't low on fluid. The oil did seem sort of milky in color. I'm not sure if that could mean anything or if it just needs changed. There's a few small shards of metal on the filter magnet that I'll attatch a photo of along with pics of all moving parts. Any help and advice is appreciated

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#27

B

bertsmobile1

Stuffed with a capital S
In photo 3 see there is a track from one slot to the other
On slot is the oil in & the other slot is the oil out
So rather than work the piston ( or build up pressure ) the oil passes directly from one slot to the other


#28

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

Hello again to everyone that has been following the thread. Since the last post, I've ordered and installed the new part(s) and put everything back together this evening. I purged it like the hydro manual says to and it's pretty much acting the same as it was before replacing anything.
One question that I do have is in the manual, it says to purge it, check oil and add as needed. How am I supposed to see how much oil is in the case if it's a sealed transmission?
After doing all of this with no noticable improvement, I'm pretty much back to square one. Does anyone have any suggestions? The symptoms are still a slow right side and sounds and acts like it bogs down when under somewhat hard acceleration or going up a very small incline.
Another thought is a continuation of a possibility earlier that the right side belt is loose and possibly slipping. I've replaced the belt with a new one and saw no difference which is what led me to cracking into the transmission. but I guess I don't know for sure if the new belt is the correct size. It matched the size of the old one. Any and all help is greatly appreciated!
bertsmobile1 said:
Stuffed with a capital S
In photo 3 see there is a track from one slot to the other
On slot is the oil in & the other slot is the oil out
So rather than work the piston ( or build up pressure ) the oil passes directly from one slot to the other
Click to expand...


#29

B

bertsmobile1

Did you purge it with the wheels off the ground ?
There must be no load on the pump & motor in order for the oil to replace the air and air does not pump particularly well .


#30

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

bertsmobile1 said:
Did you purge it with the wheels off the ground ?
There must be no load on the pump & motor in order for the oil to replace the air and air does not pump particularly well .
Click to expand...
Yes I set both sides to the neutral position with the rear on jack stands and slowly pushed forwards and backwards about a dozen times then engaged both sides and repeated before lowering it to the ground.


#31

R

Rivets

To purge many systems you may have to go through the purge sequence 10-12 times. I’ve had ones that took me 2-3 hours, working it back & forth. Even had one which I had to let it sit overnight and start over the next day. You have to be extremely lucky to do one in less than an hour.


#32

B

bertsmobile1

Rivets said:
To purge many systems you may have to go through the purge sequence 10-12 times. I’ve had ones that took me 2-3 hours, working it back & forth. Even had one which I had to let it sit overnight and start over the next day. You have to be extremely lucky to do one in less than an hour.
Click to expand...
Same as Rivets
In extreme cases I have made a plug to fit in the filling port and connected it to the sump pump the encourage the air to come out.
I had a Rider Pro here one time that took several days to purge and 2 full tanks of fuel.

Then engine must be turning as SLOW as possible
This prevents the oil foaming
When you have done the bypass valve open ( purges the pump ) purges and switch to bypass valve closed, use your foot to try & stop the wheel turning
If your foot slows the wheels movement, it has not purged so keep on doing it .


#33

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

bertsmobile1 said:
Same as Rivets
In extreme cases I have made a plug to fit in the filling port and connected it to the sump pump the encourage the air to come out.
I had a Rider Pro here one time that took several days to purge and 2 full tanks of fuel.

Then engine must be turning as SLOW as possible
This prevents the oil foaming
When you have done the bypass valve open ( purges the pump ) purges and switch to bypass valve closed, use your foot to try & stop the wheel turning
If your foot slows the wheels movement, it has not purged so keep on doing it .
Click to expand...
Thanks to both of you guys! Ill try that out asap. I had no idea it could take that long. The hydrogear manual is pretty vague with the purging process. Like I said before, the manual says to check the oil and refill as needed when necessary during the purging process. Do you guys have any tips on checking or adding oil without dropping the trans back down? Is there a way to attatch an external reservoir to each side to fill and check? One last question, can you over fill the hydro with oil? Will it damage anything besides maybe spitting some extra oil out of the breather tube? The only way I can see adding more oil w/o dropping the unit back down would be to pour down the breather hose but still no way to check the level


#34

B

bertsmobile1

FWIW
I measure out the stated quantity of oil & put that amount in
At worse there will be a small over fill as you can never get 100% of the old oil out .
The manual covers a lot of variations on the basic theme
Some will have overlfow reseviours & / or dipsticks and some won't .
It all depends what features the customer specified and of course, each extra add to the cost and trying you to pay an extra $ 50 because this model has an overflow is not an easy task when 99% of customers just want cheap .


#35

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

bertsmobile1 said:
FWIW
I measure out the stated quantity of oil & put that amount in
At worse there will be a small over fill as you can never get 100% of the old oil out .
The manual covers a lot of variations on the basic theme
Some will have overlfow reseviours & / or dipsticks and some won't .
It all depends what features the customer specified and of course, each extra add to the cost and trying you to pay an extra $ 50 because this model has an overflow is not an easy task when 99% of customers just want cheap .
Click to expand...
Is there any danger in overfilling other than some coming out of the overflow hose? How much could the oil level possibly drop when purging? The manual said to fill to where the level is 3/4" to 1½" from the top of the fill hole.


#36

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

Update: I purged the system more and it seemed to do better. I've never driven this thing in perfect working condition so it's hard to tell what it's supposed to operate like but it is SLOW, at least compared to our commercial grade Ferris that's only a few years old. The right side is close to being even in overall speed. It holds more of a straight line than before I did anything to it. I began mowing a small piece of lawn and it did decent for about 5 minutes going up and down a small incline until the right side just flat out quit again. With the mower still running, I peeked under at the belts, pullys, and fans to see that the right side fan was not spinning at all when the belt was moving. I don't know if when belts get warmed up, they expand and stretch out while in use, but it appears that the cause of this could maybe just need a new tensioner spring. I'm going to run to the store to look for some and will post an update after.


#37

Lawn-Boy43

Lawn-Boy43

So I bought new springs, still having the same issue. I pulled the clutch and belts out and switched the right side belt over to the left and left side to the right to hopefully find out that the new belt I bought for the right side was the wrong size but it's not. I'm still having the same issue with the belt being loose on the right side. Again, the tensioner has the belt slammed as far as it will go. So I'd say it's safe to assume that the belts and springs can be ruled out. I've never been this stumped in my life. Anyone have any suggestions? Should I just get a generic belt that's slightly smaller for that side?


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