Generac and Stratton
Member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2019
- Threads
- 8
- Messages
- 33
Had this about 2 years now, and use the mower more as a mini tractor (made my own attachments for rear, like custom ripper, heavy duty box scraper, towing hundreds of pounds off dirt/rock at a time, etc., etc.,) but also still cut grass with it. Best $350 I've spent in a long time.
Anyhow, noticed the exhaust was getting loud like it had a leak (ear plugs masked it a bit) and discovered the exhaust manifold studs were backing out. Tightened one and it just snapped with less than 5 ft/lbs of effort. Problem is it snapped deep inside the block threads so getting it out might be a chore if remaining bit is seized.
1. Are the stud holes open-ended for the exhaust studs or are they sealed? If I have to resort to drilling it, I don't want it accidentally threading itself in the crankcase or something.
2. I didn't try removing the exhaust pipe flange from the block. But was wondering if the exhaust port is threaded for NPC pipethread exhausts? I know B&S does that on their small engines giving you both options to mount exhaust pipe on them.
3. Any ways to bump up power on these reliably for more hp/torque? Mill the head? How much should be removed and what compression ratio will it effectively have? Port passages with a dremel? Mod the carb? Free up exhaust with better flowing muffler? Does throttle blade have a stop that's adjustable? Would allowing an extra 100-200 rpm be too hard on the rotating assembly or be worth the extra bump in power? Also, already run 91 (or 93 if I can find it) octane in all lawn stuff so not worried about that.
Like I said, I use this more often than not as a mini tractor with heavy pulling, and while fixing the exhaust studs (and upgrading to a higher quality grade 8 or something) and changing fuel filter soon, if there's easy or free hp/tq to be had, why not?
Anyhow, noticed the exhaust was getting loud like it had a leak (ear plugs masked it a bit) and discovered the exhaust manifold studs were backing out. Tightened one and it just snapped with less than 5 ft/lbs of effort. Problem is it snapped deep inside the block threads so getting it out might be a chore if remaining bit is seized.
1. Are the stud holes open-ended for the exhaust studs or are they sealed? If I have to resort to drilling it, I don't want it accidentally threading itself in the crankcase or something.
2. I didn't try removing the exhaust pipe flange from the block. But was wondering if the exhaust port is threaded for NPC pipethread exhausts? I know B&S does that on their small engines giving you both options to mount exhaust pipe on them.
3. Any ways to bump up power on these reliably for more hp/torque? Mill the head? How much should be removed and what compression ratio will it effectively have? Port passages with a dremel? Mod the carb? Free up exhaust with better flowing muffler? Does throttle blade have a stop that's adjustable? Would allowing an extra 100-200 rpm be too hard on the rotating assembly or be worth the extra bump in power? Also, already run 91 (or 93 if I can find it) octane in all lawn stuff so not worried about that.
Like I said, I use this more often than not as a mini tractor with heavy pulling, and while fixing the exhaust studs (and upgrading to a higher quality grade 8 or something) and changing fuel filter soon, if there's easy or free hp/tq to be had, why not?