L110 Will Not Start

[Dirtbmw20]

Check out this video ... might prove helpful ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yiimgl-Rdmw

I use these connectors all the time ... best part is you can take the splice apart at any time with cutting the wire great for a situation like yours ( I M O )
you can get them here ... https://www.posi-products.com/
I have bought some at ADVANCE Auto Parts also..

Those would work great if I was splicing two wires together, but in no way could I use those for my problem/issue. I just simply (not so simple) need the metal terminals that go into the connector body so I can build another connector with leads.

 

[Boobala]

It sounds to me as though you want to have an "ORIGINAL" type connection with a "molen" typeconnector
I'm not sure this will help but I have built complete wiring harness's using similar products while doing Aircraft Overhaul work ...

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/copi

https://www.google.com/search?q=mal...I3OFXchHPmQ1VbE30uCoSCWZPNE7UZKFfEVoFDpwpqFrO

https://www.google.com/search?q=mal...I3OFXchHPmQ1VbE30uCoSCWZPNE7UZKFfEVoFDpwpqFrO

I hope this helps in your quest of information ...

 

[Telesis]

I don't know the exact switch on the L110. I googled it and it seems like part no GY20094 is it. I'll assume for the moment it is. This switch has 1/4" male spade terminals. Instead of trying to find the complete mating connector, can you just cut it off, and terminate each of the 4 wires with an individual insulated female spade terminal? You can find those online, or at home center or hardware stores. This is what I'm referring to:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Ele...-Insulated-Nylon-CPGI-3-350820-2-10/202204295

You just need to get the right wire on the right terminal of the switch...

Is this a possibility?

 

[Dirtbmw20]

It sounds to me as though you want to have an "ORIGINAL" type connection with a "molen" typeconnector
I'm not sure this will help but I have built complete wiring harness's using similar products while doing Aircraft Overhaul work ...

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/copi

https://www.google.com/search?q=mal...I3OFXchHPmQ1VbE30uCoSCWZPNE7UZKFfEVoFDpwpqFrO

https://www.google.com/search?q=mal...I3OFXchHPmQ1VbE30uCoSCWZPNE7UZKFfEVoFDpwpqFrO

I hope this helps in your quest of information ...

Boobala, Yes, that is exactly what I want is the ORIGINAL connector with leads. What you gave links to is exactly what I already have from JD, JUST the cavity or body of the connector. IF someone could tell me the correct metal terminal to go into it, where it would snap in like it's suppose to, I would have no problem building my own connector, but nobody at JD can tell me which terminals go into the body.

 

[Dirtbmw20]

I don't know the exact switch on the L110. I googled it and it seems like part no GY20094 is it. I'll assume for the moment it is. This switch has 1/4" male spade terminals. Instead of trying to find the complete mating connector, can you just cut it off, and terminate each of the 4 wires with an individual insulated female spade terminal? You can find those online, or at home center or hardware stores. This is what I'm referring to:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Ele...-Insulated-Nylon-CPGI-3-350820-2-10/202204295

You just need to get the right wire on the right terminal of the switch...

Is this a possibility?

YES, of course this is a possibility and seems to be my only option at this moment. If you go back to post #9, I mentioned that if I can't find the connector with leads already on it, I'll just have to straight wire each one individually.

 

[Dirtbmw20]

IF anyone else is interested........... The part number for the metal terminals that go inside the cavity are U46662, thanks VERY MUCH to forum member JoeM for the part number.

 

[Telesis]

I'm sorry, I missed your comment about direct wire. Can you please confirm with a pic or a part no of the switch or the cavity what you are dealing with? Is it the one I mentioned using the spade terminals or is it something that uses the round pins and sockets as Boobala indicated. He mentioned 'molen'. That's a typo. He's referring to a 'Molex' type connector. That's a manufacturer name and they have been around forever and you can buy individual pins and sockets at electronics suppliers like Mouser, Digikey, Newark, etc. They are very common. The question is whether the 'standard' molex pins are used in the JD cavity. If I can just see a pic of exactly what you are looking for I can probably give you more help.

So, for this next comment I'll assume I was wrong about the spade terminal connector and instead it's a molex connector. I've assembled a boatload of molex connectors over the years and it's not uncommon for a male or female insert to pop out of the cavity. If you look closely at the insert, there are two "nibs", one on each side of the insert. When it is pushed into the cavity, those 'snap' in to retain it. If those are bent in, they won't grab. You can take an Xacto knife and gently bend them back out and push the insert back in and get it to grab. I mention this as you may not need to replace and can repair instead.

Sorry to belabor the issue, but my confusion is what type of connection you are dealing with in the first place. If you could provide a pic of the connector and of the pin that fell out, that would be helpful and I can point you to specific part numbers. If in fact it's molex pins you are looking for(and they are the standard ones), there's a good chance I have what you need in my shop and I can just send them to you! [I've been designing, building, and repairing electronics for the better part of 50 years and I've worked with all kinds of connectors, including molex. That's why I'm asking to see it!]

 

[Dirtbmw20]

I'm sorry, I missed your comment about direct wire. Can you please confirm with a pic or a part no of the switch or the cavity what you are dealing with? Is it the one I mentioned using the spade terminals or is it something that uses the round pins and sockets as Boobala indicated. He mentioned 'molen'. That's a typo. He's referring to a 'Molex' type connector. That's a manufacturer name and they have been around forever and you can buy individual pins and sockets at electronics suppliers like Mouser, Digikey, Newark, etc. They are very common. The question is whether the 'standard' molex pins are used in the JD cavity. If I can just see a pic of exactly what you are looking for I can probably give you more help.

So, for this next comment I'll assume I was wrong about the spade terminal connector and instead it's a molex connector. I've assembled a boatload of molex connectors over the years and it's not uncommon for a male or female insert to pop out of the cavity. If you look closely at the insert, there are two "nibs", one on each side of the insert. When it is pushed into the cavity, those 'snap' in to retain it. If those are bent in, they won't grab. You can take an Xacto knife and gently bend them back out and push the insert back in and get it to grab. I mention this as you may not need to replace and can repair instead.

Sorry to belabor the issue, but my confusion is what type of connection you are dealing with in the first place. If you could provide a pic of the connector and of the pin that fell out, that would be helpful and I can point you to specific part numbers. If in fact it's molex pins you are looking for(and they are the standard ones), there's a good chance I have what you need in my shop and I can just send them to you! [I've been designing, building, and repairing electronics for the better part of 50 years and I've worked with all kinds of connectors, including molex. That's why I'm asking to see it!]

Cavity part# T24167 and terminal part# U46662, solve my problems with this issue. I do not have pics.

 

[Telesis]

Looks like you'll be up and running in no time. Glad JoeM had the info you needed. Let us know how you make out!

 

[James stark]

I have no power to my hour meter of starter motor on my l110 I turned it off TRY to restart cutting field with try get a build fix it can bad ignition switch or a solenoid cause no power