Kohler Command V-twin. Cranks but no-start.

[Auto Doc's]

You can also disconnect the line on the carburetor and place the end of the line in a jar, plastic soda bottle or plastic cup (do not use a Styrofoam cup), then crank the engine to verify it is actually pumping fuel.

Watching the filter while cranking is not reliable, because they do not typically fill up with fuel. Once running at higher RPM, they filter may fill up eventually.

Can you attach a picture of your replacement pump as it is mounted?

 

[firhill]

Thanks for the electrical wiring diagram link. I will go over it later tonight.

I replaced the fuel pump (Aluminum Block type) with one that looks almost identical.
The differences being the in and out connections in relation to the crankcase, carb and fuel in.

As for the actual ports, they are still located in the same 1/3 section of the block itself.
Fuel in on top, fuel out on bottom and line from crankcase to pulse diaphragm is in the middle.
Same as the old pump in that respect.

I will have to go hunt down a test l

 

[firhill]

Sorry, I typed the wrong info above re: the fuel pump.

Both the fuel in and fuel out are in the middle portion of the block and the input to diaphragm from crankcase is on top 1/3 section.

 

[firhill]

You can also disconnect the line on the carburetor and place the end of the line in a jar, plastic soda bottle or plastic cup (do not use a Styrofoam cup), then crank the engine to verify it is actually pumping fuel.

Watching the filter while cranking is not reliable, because they do not typically fill up with fuel. Once running at higher RPM, they filter may fill up eventually.

Can you attach a picture of your replacement pump as it is mounted?

I will take and post some pictures of what everything looks like later today.

 

[firhill]

I checked the bullet connector to the fuel solenoid and it clicks and registers 12v when I turn the key to ON position.
There is another connection on the opposite side of carb where the single wire attaches with a spade connector from above. The wire is green and inside a black sheath and it also changes from zero volts to 12V when key is turned to ON position.
You can see it to the left of carb in attached photos.

In going over the wiring diagram I wondered if the relay in the start circuit would cause a no fuel issue so I took apart the control panel and tried to take a picture or two of what’s in there.

There are four fuses on the side of that panel that are labeled LIGHT -PTO-START-REG and one of three 7.5A fuses is giving me an intermittent reading on the ohmmeter. I can’t tell what spot I pulled from as I took them all out at once. Anyway, I’m not sure if that would even be an issue but I will pick some fuses up later and replace that one.

I’ll attach all the photos I took in the hope there might be something there that will help solve.

Thanks again for all the help from everyone.

ETA……I’m trying to find a way to post the photos I took as I’m being told each of the uploaded IMG files is too large. I’ll keep working at it.

 

[Auto Doc's]

I checked the bullet connector to the fuel solenoid and it clicks and registers 12v when I turn the key to ON position.
There is another connection on the opposite side of carb where the single wire attaches with a spade connector from above. The wire is green and inside a black sheath and it also changes from zero volts to 12V when key is turned to ON position.
You can see it to the left of carb in attached photos.

In going over the wiring diagram I wondered if the relay in the start circuit would cause a no fuel issue so I took apart the control panel and tried to take a picture or two of what’s in there.

There are four fuses on the side of that panel that are labeled LIGHT -PTO-START-REG and one of three 7.5A fuses is giving me an intermittent reading on the ohmmeter. I can’t tell what spot I pulled from as I took them all out at once. Anyway, I’m not sure if that would even be an issue but I will pick some fuses up later and replace that one.

I’ll attach all the photos I took in the hope there might be something there that will help solve.

Thanks again for all the help from everyone.

ETA……I’m trying to find a way to post the photos I took as I’m being told each of the uploaded IMG files is too large. I’ll keep working at it.

I think JPEG should work.

 

[firhill]

I tried cropping the pictures to see if that works.
Hopefully the relevant items are still in photos.

 

[ILENGINE]

I checked the bullet connector to the fuel solenoid and it clicks and registers 12v when I turn the key to ON position.
There is another connection on the opposite side of carb where the single wire attaches with a spade connector from above. The wire is green and inside a black sheath and it also changes from zero volts to 12V when key is turned to ON position.
You can see it to the left of carb in attached photos.

The green wire is connector to the oil pressure switch. Could have 12 volts with the key on due to it being on the ground side of the oil pressure light. Basically the oil pressure switch provides the ground to turn on the oil pressure light.

 

[firhill]

The green wire is connector to the oil pressure switch. Could have 12 volts with the key on due to it being on the ground side of the oil pressure light. Basically the oil pressure switch provides the ground to turn on the oil pressure light.

Doh. I should have known that. Thanks