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Kohler Command PRO Engine Swapped now it won't start

#1

T

thegreatconductor

I have an older exmark 60" zero turn mower that had a bad engine. It worked but leaked oil pretty bad so I had to put about a quart in each time I would use it. This weekend I swapped it with a brand new Kohler engine and after getting everything hooked back up it will not start. When I turn the key it just makes a clunk and nothing more. If someone with more experience troubleshooting can please take a look at this video of me trying to start it I could use some help. I have tried jumping it with my car in case the battery wasn't charged enough but that didn't make any difference. I also checked the belts and I'm not sure what else to try.

https://youtu.be/N1Qb7uxxOZc


Thank you!


#2

M

mechanic mark

First make sure oil level is on full mark on dipstick. With key off try rotating top of engine screen by hand, you may have to remove spark plugs. Post all numbers from your new engine.


#3

L

Lawnranger

Since the engine is brand new it is still under warranty so don't go taking too much apart. The first thing I would do is remove all belts and try cranking the engine again. If the engine still does not crank then remove the spark plugs and try rotating the engine by hand and go at least two full revolutions. If the engine still does not rotate then something internal could be causing the problem and that is when you call the dealer you bought the engine from to ask for warranty instructions. However, if the engine now rotates then it may be hydro-locked. Put your nose by the spark plug hole and take a good whiff. Also, check oil level to see if it is above the full mark or smells like gasoline.

Perform those tests and tell us what happened as a result.


#4

B

bertsmobile1

If it went a bit of a tune hen klunk and stopped, do not try the starter agin.
Remove the plug put it back on the plug wire some where well away from the plug hole and try to turn the engine by hand.
If you smell strong fuel so see fuel squirting out of the plug hole then turn the fuel off and rotoate by hand till the fuel smell is gone.
Just had friend badly burned because fuel gushed out of the plug hole then was ignited by the spark plug.
It is not uncommon for a new engine to gat some crud in the carb and cause it to flood.


#5

T

thegreatconductor

Lawnranger said:
Since the engine is brand new it is still under warranty so don't go taking too much apart. The first thing I would do is remove all belts and try cranking the engine again. If the engine still does not crank then remove the spark plugs and try rotating the engine by hand and go at least two full revolutions. If the engine still does not rotate then something internal could be causing the problem and that is when you call the dealer you bought the engine from to ask for warranty instructions. However, if the engine now rotates then it may be hydro-locked. Put your nose by the spark plug hole and take a good whiff. Also, check oil level to see if it is above the full mark or smells like gasoline.

Perform those tests and tell us what happened as a result.
Click to expand...


I took the belts off and removed the spark plugs and rotated the engine. Oil came squirting out of the spark plug holes. After getting the plugs back in it did start up. There was a bunch of smoke but that could be just because it was starting up for the first time. I turned it off and connected the pto belt but I had a hell of time trying to attach the pump belt. I tried everything I could think of to try to get the spring on but no luck. Does anyone have any suggestions or a tool I can get that will help get this spring on? I have attached a picture of what I am dealing with with arrows to the points I need to connect the spring to.

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#6

NorthBama

NorthBama

I use a large Philips screw driver through the spring hook and pull from back side of bolt. Spring should slide off screwdriver onto bolt shaft. some tension pulley brackets have a square hole for using a ratchet to rotate bracket to get spring closer to hook bolt.


#7

T

thegreatconductor

NorthBama said:
I use a large Philips screw driver through the spring hook and pull from back side of bolt. Spring should slide off screwdriver onto bolt shaft. some tension pulley brackets have a square hole for using a ratchet to rotate bracket to get spring closer to hook bolt.
Click to expand...

I tried that but the problem I had was I couldn't pull the screwdriver all the way back because it hit the side of the enclosure. I could get it straight up but it wouldn't slide at that angle.


#8

L

Lawnranger

I find it much safer, at least for me, to have a helper when it comes to that particular spring. I use 3-4 feet of starter rope and a screwdriver to pull the rope. I attach the rope to one end of the spring and pull to stretch the spring while my helper guides the spring in place usually using a pry bar to keep fingers & hands away just in case. You can make a loop with the rope or what ever works in your case. Good luck.


#9

L

Lawnranger

Two more things: looks like that belt has seen better days so you may want to replace it before installing the tension spring. And, how did so much oil get in the cylinders on a new engine?


#10

cpurvis

cpurvis

Would it be easier to install the spring first, then the belt?


#11

B

bertsmobile1

Spring tool is a long piece of wire with a hook on one end & a comfortable length of tube on the other.
Got about a dozen or so for various mowers, then again I have an unlimited supply of No 8 fencing wire in lengths less than 6'.
Some times I have to resort to hooking a ratchet tie down to a tension arm ( spring attached ) to get it back far enough to get a belt on/off.
When you work single handed you get quite resourceful.

I will guess that you have laid the engine down the wrong way and managed to fill the carb with oil via the breather tube.
Not uncommon.
Run the motor, plug removed for a while till the oil stops blowing out then don't forget to top up the sump before you run it much or you will be doing yet another engine swap.


#12

T

thegreatconductor

bertsmobile1 said:
Spring tool is a long piece of wire with a hook on one end & a comfortable length of tube on the other.
Got about a dozen or so for various mowers, then again I have an unlimited supply of No 8 fencing wire in lengths less than 6'.
Some times I have to resort to hooking a ratchet tie down to a tension arm ( spring attached ) to get it back far enough to get a belt on/off.
When you work single handed you get quite resourceful.

I will guess that you have laid the engine down the wrong way and managed to fill the carb with oil via the breather tube.
Not uncommon.
Run the motor, plug removed for a while till the oil stops blowing out then don't forget to top up the sump before you run it much or you will be doing yet another engine swap.
Click to expand...

I have a friend coming by after work to help with the spring. How do I ran the engine without the spark plug to blow the oil out? I didn't think the engine would run without spark plugs.


#13

Carscw

Carscw

I use vise crips on springs.


#14

Micah Haarhoff

Micah Haarhoff

you do nt have to run it just turn it over until the oil stops coming out.


#15

T

thegreatconductor

I got the spring on and the mower is running fantastic now. Thanks everyone for all the help. I don't think I could have gotten this working without your advice. I'm very happy now with this mower working like a champ!


#16

NorthBama

NorthBama

good news thanks for update


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