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I thought my problem was the fuel shutoff. Couldnt remember when the carb had been cleaned so I ordered a new carburetor. The receiver for the shut off solenoid had 4 square corners and the connector wire had 2 square and 2 beveled corners. I messaged the seller and they said it probably wouldn't matter which way it went. I hooked it up and it clicked a few times so I tried to start the motor. It turned over a few times then nothing. I couldn't even make it click. The 20 amp fuse is still good but I cant get anything when I turn the key on or try to start the motor. The battery shows around 12.5 volts. If it was hooked up wrong, did I burn up something inside the shutoff? When I disconnect the shutoff, I still get nothing. Any ideas what I should try? Thanks

You will not hurt the solenoid by connecting it backwards.
All that happens is it pushes the plunger forward rather than pulling ut backwards.
Some do have a diode in them in which case they just work or don't work.
Pull the plug off and check for ground on one of the wires which should not change.
The other wire should + battery voltage when the key is in the on & start positions .
To confirm you have a fuel supply problem
1) put some fuel down the plug hole & crank the engine
IF it fires then the coil is working
2) put some fuel down the carb and crank the engine
If the engine fires then the valves are working and you have a fuel supply problem.

Did you check that the choke was fully closed ?
Kohlers are very sensitive to choke .

bertsmobile1 said:

You will not hurt the solenoid by connecting it backwards.
All that happens is it pushes the plunger forward rather than pulling ut backwards.
Some do have a diode in them in which case they just work or don't work.
Pull the plug off and check for ground on one of the wires which should not change.
The other wire should + battery voltage when the key is in the on & start positions .
To confirm you have a fuel supply problem
1) put some fuel down the plug hole & crank the engine
IF it fires then the coil is working
2) put some fuel down the carb and crank the engine
If the engine fires then the valves are working and you have a fuel supply problem.

Did you check that the choke was fully closed ?
Kohlers are very sensitive to choke .

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I'm not real good explaining stuff, but when I said I got nothing, I should have said the motor would not even turn over. That's why I thought Maybe somthing burned in the shutoff and cut electricity to the starter. Maybe just a freak thing and the starter developed problems at the same time. Been a long day so I will start looking at the starter tomorrow. Thanks again. Have a great day.

OK,
Now lets start from the beginning
What machine is the Kohler in ?
Make model & serial numbers please
This allows forum members to pull down wiring diagrams , hopefully the correct one for your equipment.

Assuming it is a mower there should be single red wire with a 20A fuse , that supplies all of the power to the mower so pull it out & replace it.

This is a John Deere L110A , GXL110A171198. Let me back up. Last season the mower ran as good as ever. Started the year with all new parts on the mower deck. I usually run it some all through the winter, but last winter I started having health problems just before Thanksgiving and didn't get back up until early February. The first time I tried to mow, I had to use a little starting fluid to get it to start. In mowing the yard I killed the engine several times and it started back no problem. A few days later all this started. Being that I wanted to change the oil and filter, I ordered a new fuel pump, oil filter, gas filter, gas lines, and carburater. Not sure if any of this would matter, but that is "the rest of the story". I checked the fuse with multi-meter. It was good, but I put a new one in anyway. Thanks.

Here is the basic wiring schematic for the cranking circuit.

No such thing a too much information wheh it comes to trying to diagnose a mower with nothing more than words on a screen
Pull the blower housing off and check the wires to both the fuel shut off solenoid & the magneto .
I am hoping you will find them chewed through and grounding on the block.
An to get things fixed in my head
Does the engine crank normally & not start ?
Crank lumpy and not start ?
Fail to crank at all ?
Star has just uploaded the cranking circuit but we might need to look at the magneto circuit.
The other thing that will cause random stops is faulty seat switch or seat switch relay
We can bypass them for the purpose of making a diagnosis but lets go with the easy bits first.

It completely fails to crank(will not turn at all). The starter makes no noise(clicking) but I hear a crisp crackle sound somewhere. It will take me a while to get back on the mower, but I will look for shorts. I cant express my thanks enough, so if I forget to add a thank you, it's because of a brain overload. Thanks
Just remembered, the first thing I did this season was replace the regulator rectifier. The old one was blowing fuses. But like I said it mowed the yard once and started and stopped several times and so far the fuse is still good. Sorry about that, another overload. Thanks again.

StarTech said:

Here is the basic wiring schematic for the cranking circuit.
View attachment 51570

Click to expand...

Thanks, I will study this and see if I can figure it out. Can I print this from here?

Magneto kill and interlock.

Now I go back to the heart surgery on a Z925A. Got to do a triple bypass. had to wait for the SM CD.

Sorry taking so long. After getting my mind free from the John Deere, I discovered I was falling behind on my other chores. I have to thank both of you for giving me good advice. What made it run was when I found the corrosion where the negative battery cable was attached to the frame of the mower. That wasn't a real fun job, but it worked. No telling how much I would have spent without your advice. I mowed the entire yard today and it went great. Calling for rain tonight and tomorrow. Thanks again and I hope you have a great day.

Thanks for the follow up.
Get a can of "Liquid Electrical Tape " , clean the area around the ground contact and the ground wire itself then apply liberally, allowing a couple of hours for it to dry into a protective plastic cover that will prevent further corrosion.