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is there someway to get a puller on it? ty

You can go to any auto parts store & rent puller & get your money back after returning puller.

Use a puller like Mark linked.
Or thread the nut back onto flywheel just flush with the end of the crankshaft, so you don't damage the threads.
get suitable pry tool and insert under the flywheel while pushing down on the handle (to push the flywheel up wards) and hit the nut with a hammer, may take a whack or two while prying up on the flywheel.

Prefer not to use pry bar method; always a chance of putting a hole in the thin closure plate.

Under the flywheel fan will be two puller holes. Note these are metric threaded.

1. Unsnap debris screen from cooling fan.
2. Remove retaining screw, washer and fan mounting plate, securing fan and flywheel to crankshaft.
3. Carefully lift cooling fan to disengage two drive pins and remove it from flywheel.
4. Remove flywheel from crankshaft using a puller. Harmonic balancer puller type.
5. Remove flywheel key from crankshaft.

This manual may be of some help. As a service tech I’ve used the following method multiple times with success, but you must be very careful when doing it. Remove the fan and reinstall the flywheel bolt until you have a gap of 1/16”-1/8” between the flywheel and bolt. Take the largest screwdriver you have, must be over 12” long, and wedge it between the flywheel and the block. You are going to pull up on the screwdriver to put upward pressure on the flywheel. Now take the largest hammer you have, I use a 5 lb hand maul, and while pulling up on the screwdriver with one hand, strike down hard and SQUARELY, I REPEAT SQUARELY on the head of the bolt. If done right the jarring action of the hammer should release the flywheel from the crankshaft. WARNING: If you do not hit squarely on the bolt there is a risk of damaging the bolt or flywheel. Try at your own risk. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Ko...urage-SV470-SV480-SV530-SV540-SV590-SV600.pdf

When in doubt........










BFH

I use a pry bar & hammer as well
As Star mentioned the closing plate is quite thin so I slip a steel plate across it to spread the load.
I sit on the end of the bar then put an old impact socket on the nut to protect the nut & crank then give it a nice hard smack with an old log splitting axe which is about 10 lb that had a broken handle so I cut it down short .

Now the caveat on this is I put the pry bar under the flywheel when undoing the nut with an air impact.
In most cases the actions of the air impact is enough to pop the taper .

Rivets said:

This manual may be of some help. As a service tech I’ve used the following method multiple times with success, but you must be very careful when doing it. Remove the fan and reinstall the flywheel bolt until you have a gap of 1/16”-1/8” between the flywheel and bolt. Take the largest screwdriver you have, must be over 12” long, and wedge it between the flywheel and the block. You are going to pull up on the screwdriver to put upward pressure on the flywheel. Now take the largest hammer you have, I use a 5 lb hand maul, and while pulling up on the screwdriver with one hand, strike down hard and SQUARELY, I REPEAT SQUARELY on the head of the bolt. If done right the jarring action of the hammer should release the flywheel from the crankshaft. WARNING: If you do not hit squarely on the bolt there is a risk of damaging the bolt or flywheel. Try at your own risk. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Ko...urage-SV470-SV480-SV530-SV540-SV590-SV600.pdf

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This youtube video may help. As Rivets said use extreme caution if doing it this way. If the flywheel is really rusted on other components can break. You can ruin the crank threads and/or nut/bolt hold down.

Scrubcadet10 said:

Use a puller like Mark linked.
Or thread the nut back onto flywheel just flush with the end of the crankshaft, so you don't damage the threads.
get suitable pry tool and insert under the flywheel while pushing down on the handle (to push the flywheel up wards) and hit the nut with a hammer, may take a whack or two while prying up on the flywheel.

Click to expand...

Alternately you can place some hardwood wedges under the flywheel and then strike the flywheel nut that is just loose !

There should two or three threaded holes in the flywheel, use a slotted puller thread bolts into the holes, if you need to tap the shaft or the bolt on the shaft, a copper hammer works best as it will not flare or damage the threads. you should be able to buy what you need at harbor frieght.

An impact gun on the crank while prying on 2 sides works wonders.

Big ass hammer and a tire tool fits all flywheels.

Come on guys use the right tools. That why they are made. And many auto part stores even have a loan a tool programs for those that are not willing to buy the tools or have an one time need.

StarTech said:

Come on guys use the right tools. That why they are made. And many auto part stores even have a loan a tool programs for those that are not willing to buy the tools or have an one time need.

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Suitable advice but some of us don't live next door to the parts store and like to get things done in a timely manner. Thus the use of the correct size hammer and lightly prying on the flywheel is the best option. I've been removing flywheels since I was 15 years old and in those 56 years I've never damaged a flywheel or shaft with my efforts.

IaFarmer said:

Suitable advice but some of us don't live next door to the parts store and like to get things done in a timely manner. Thus the use of the correct size hammer and lightly prying on the flywheel is the best option. I've been removing flywheels since I was 15 years old and in those 56 years I've never damaged a flywheel or shaft with my efforts.

Click to expand...

I don't live next to a parts store as the closest is over 30 miles away but I have a good relationship with them and can pickup and return tools on Sundays while in town shopping otherwise so there is no excuse for laziness. I even got last set of large metric impacts at half price after borrowing the set which I have add to since that purchase.

You mean in 56 yrs you never had to remove a harmonic balancer pulley assembly nor had the time to go to an auto parts store for your vehicle parts? And I probably started working engines a lot earlier in my life as I learning when I was in the 2nd grade in Salinas, CA. The first engine I remember helping to put heads on was '56 Oldsmobile.

The harmonic balancer puller has been in my tool set every since. The only other puller I normally use are the flywheel knockers that I use on two cycles and had them made from my own designs just like the PTO screw torquing tool I have here so I don't have to remove the flywheel shrouds when dealing PTO clutches with recessed double D. Of course those that don't the double D I still need to remove the shroud so I can hold the flywheel.

Now I do have two 44" cabinets and tool chests full of tools too.