Kholer Courage 22 - new carb - idle perfect - off idle hunting

[StarTech]

Couple years ago i had an older JD gator. JD wanted $375 for a new simple one barrell carb. I replaced needle and seat for $55.

It like the Kawasaki 3010's 15003-2766 here in the shop now. It is 433.34 which is only 9% off list @ Partzilla [it is 390.48 thru Amazon Kawasaki store]. Definitely cleaning and rebuilding it. BTW I found what cause the water in the oil problem, missing screws and cover gasket badly torn. I still got to get the engine out but I got side track with the parking brake problem yesterday. At least I got the CVT clutches off.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Is it one of those JD with the 30 series Comet drives? Some of those are a real B to get off.

 

[StarTech]

I just started work on ATVs and UTVs about 6 years ago so I not sure which it is. But this is the drive convertor and it is fairly easy to get off. Has to come off to even replace the belt.


Ahhh I looked up 30 series Comet drive and that is a Go Cart type and I have replaced a few of them.

 

[Hammermechanicman]

JD used some 30 and 40 series in a previous century

 

[CubbyCommando]

It's called the needle and seat. Works like a toilet.

Dump the fuel tank, reverse blow with compressed air. Get that tank spotlessly clean as in brand new perfect. Probably grass and grit in the tank heading towards the carb.

Install all new fuel lines and filter from tank to carb.

Remove the carb bowl and spray carb cleaner WITH SAFETY GLASSES ON into the fuel inlet tube both ways. Remove the float and hinge pin finally removing the needle. Clean away with your SAFETY GLASSES ON. Why use safety glasses? Don't use them then come back here and comment on your experience. LOL

As slomo mentioned the needle and seat should be addressed on the OEM carb since you stated it was leaking fuel out of the butterfly. If you don't have a rebuild kit on hand there's something you can try in the meantime.

On the OEM carb, remove the float needle then take a Q-tip and dip it in Mother's metal polish. Chuck the Q-tip in a drill and polish the inside of the seat until it's shiny clean. I have a couple of vintage motorcycles that I've done this on with good results when the needle stuck causing fuel to leak out of the overflow. Something to try anyway. Good luck.

 

[skiman]

Yes, it is running lean on the main jet. As has been asked, OEM or aftermarket? Many AM carbs for kohlers are not jetted properly. While it is hunting try pulling the choke out slowly. If it stops hunting definately running too lean.

Thats because all the aftermarket carbs for walbro kohler style carbs have fixed idle jets...the oem had adjustable low speed jet to smooth out the high speed oscillation....thats why i dont buy them but all the briggs ones have thT jet adjustment to take care of the hunting...

 

[skiman]

Engine is a SV715 22 HP. Original carb is a Keihin. Numbers stamped on top of the carb are 32 053 11 64B alc. And on the side is BCH

I did find I had one of the governor linkages on the wrong hole. Put it where it was on the original carb and it does run better now. But still not as good as it used to.

Only problem with original carb is it started dumping gas out of the butterfly. Lots of gas. Took it apart once and cleaned up the bowl, put it back together and it ran fine. Did it again a few weeks ago and just ordered a new carb. Had no idea there were different original manufacturers. Just assumed the ones on Amazon were rebuilds of the original carbs. So maybe I would be better just finding out the real issue with the original carb. Is there a part that is causing the sudden gas dumping?

Ok...you said it worked after you cleaned it...no longer dumping gas out the carb...then started again a while later...sounds like maybe debris in the fuel tank or a fuel line and or filter discentgrating causing the needle not closing...id replace the feul line and filter and reclean your carb...