Hey i have a 691v-cs13-r in a hydro walk behind. Something happened that made a hole in the block just below connecting rod cap. cap still has two bolts in it so im thinking maybe the rod broke . The engine has oil in it. 2100 hours on the meter. anyway is it worth rebuilding this engine? I have a good kohler 22hp command on a shelf. What do you pros say??
Attachments
#2
7394
(not a Pro, just my opinion)
You could probably get a replacement "short block" for less that trying to rebuild. imo.
im just wondering if its a **** motor.all this emission stuff on cars and small engine seems to reduce engine life. engine looks like it has aluminum rods. i dont know if thats good idea for workhorse machine.
Down here Kawasaki engines are cheap ( they are trying to dominate the quality end of the market ) but parts are very expensive.
I can get a complete new engine for a few hundred more than a short block so by the time I add my labour charges the complete engine works out a lot cheaper to the customer.
Check your warranty if you bought it new.
Kawasaki are doing 3 year commercial and 5 year residential warranty down here.
I always offer the customer the old engine back and supply a quote for the parts most likely requiring replacement if they want to rebuild their engines but only 1 of 9 customers have bothered.
2000 hours is quite young most of mine that went were 5000 + hours , apart from the rocker supports, but they were due to slack dealers servicing.
i read there is a probem with dropped valves and rocker arms and pedestals breaking off. any truth to that?? Here in the states it looks like i can get a short block for $1050 with gasket kit.
On some the rocker support is held in with one bolt and a locating pip cast into the head.
If that one bolt comes loose then the support rotates chopping off the pip .
After that the push rod & rocker parts company.
Best case is it just runs on one cylinder.
Worse case is the pushrod drops into the engine & gets chewed up taking out whatever it pleases .
Not sure if they have modified the head casting but of course you need a new head for starters.
When I get one in out of warrantee I will see if you can replace the pip with a pin or dowel of some sort.
Kawasaki took back the heads so I did not see them
Thagh nks for the info. it has hole in the block right where the connecting rod cap is. the cap is still connected to crank and rotates on the crank . I wonder what put the hole in the case??? I've been working everyday so i didn't pull the engine yet.
Beautiful destruction. I wonder if the valve broke off and did it, or the rod broke and smashed the valve???LOts of crap in the cooling fins but i don't know if that would cause the engine to blow up?? Rocker arm pips were fine. The hole was from the piston and cam chunks that got caught between the case and the rod cap. Maybe valve head broke off and previous owner kept using the mower until this happened?. The engine had oil in it. Newer Kawasaki engine must be junk. i heard the old ones are good. always liked kohler.
Beautiful destruction. I wonder if the valve broke off and did it, or the rod broke and smashed the valve???LOts of crap in the cooling fins but i don't know if that would cause the engine to blow up?? Rocker arm pips were fine. The hole was from the piston and cam chunks that got caught between the case and the rod cap. Maybe valve head broke off and previous owner kept using the mower until this happened?. The engine had oil in it. Newer Kawasaki engine must be junk. i heard the old ones are good. always liked kohler.
Beautiful destruction. I wonder if the valve broke off and did it, or the rod broke and smashed the valve???LOts of crap in the cooling fins but i don't know if that would cause the engine to blow up?? Rocker arm pips were fine. The hole was from the piston and cam chunks that got caught between the case and the rod cap. Maybe valve head broke off and previous owner kept using the mower until this happened?. The engine had oil in it. Newer Kawasaki engine must be junk. i heard the old ones are good. always liked kohler.
That is the sort of things that happen when you do not remove the blower housing and clean the cooling fins.
The head overheats , valves get stuck and some thing has to give.
As for quality. you get what you pay for.
People will not pay for quality so the engine builders build them down to the price that the "market will accept".
Honda pulled out because they would have to trash their brand building motors at the price the mower companies were willing to pay.Kawasaki stepped in to take up the premium engine end of the market.
The Command series was the better end of Kohler quality ( Command Pro is top ).
Just measure the length of the PTO shaft and it's diameter.
Walk behinds oft use smaller cranks ( 7/8"-1" ) than ride ons ( 1"- 1.125" )
what the difference between pro and regular command?? the crank is 1" On the kawasaki
#14
Boudreaux In Eunice La.
Wow frickin wheee Your cam destructed in a few pieces the piston rings are in there also and I think I see a piece of that in there.... The rod is in shambles. Maybe get a good tig welder, WAIT NO that won't do no good ..... LOL..
That rodent nest caused your problem from the get go........ The Command and the PRO are way better than the Courage............
If you can get a short block that matches yours for a cheap price then go for it... If your Command has the same size shaft then go for it.........
I have never seen a engine get tore up like that because of a mouse nest....... Usually you notice EXTRA heat coming from the muffler and actually feel the EXTRA heat on your legs or something......
Let us know how you gonna do the outcome Mon Ami ~!~!
I purchased it blown up. I got a good deal on 2 walk behinds. this was one of them . engine was on exmark x-series turf tracer . If you look in the photos you can see the valve face in there too. :laughing:
#16
reynoldston
I don't know the damage to the engine case or block. If it was mine I would rebuild it. You can get used parts off of E bay, even a engine case if needed.
The Command series was the better end of Kohler quality ( Command Pro is top ).
Just measure the length of the PTO shaft and it's diameter.
Walk behinds oft use smaller cranks ( 7/8"-1" ) than ride ons ( 1"- 1.125" )
Cheapness.
Smaller diameters because you don't need bigger heavier shafts.
Less metal = less costs.
Smaller diameter also allows smaller pulleys.
So a simple push will generally be 7/8" ,
lawn tractors 1"
Garden tractors & Commercials 1 & 1/8"
I mean you don't need a chain strong enough to berth the Missouri to lock your gates do you ?
