Many of you guys have helped me out tremendously and I appreciate that. I made a hot wire and can start my mower since I have had safety switch issues. The switch I ordered from Amazon fits great and turns on but it always blows the 7.5 amp fuse for some reason. I made the hot wire and it fires right up and runs great. On the other hand as soon as I try to get out of the seat it dies with the brake engaged. I bypassed the seat switch with another wire. And yet to find that it also dies when I try to release the parking brake. What am I doing wrong? Is it because I on have the hot wire on the ignition plug on two prongs and not wire to all of the plugs? I just want to move the mower to my new shed until I can get the right parts and fix it properly.
John deere ztrak 525e parking brake
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bertsmobile1
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Trying to bypass safety switches .
They are there to protect you and others near you when you are mowing
Fix them don't bypass them .
If you want to do stupid things and make your mower more dangerous to use than it already is then go to face book.
You will find it chockers with weird red neck anti authoritians who believe than making things dangerious is some how an expression of you persona freedom .
From a personal point of view I would rather no safety devices at all so in every street there would be an idiot with fingers / hands / toes missing so we would all remember that mowers are dangerous every time we see them struggleing to do simple things like walk or open doors .
On Z tracks the switches are easier to access than any other ZTR and the JD Tech manual will walk you through the diagnosis & repair proceedures in a way a 5 year old can follow them.
Sorry if this sounds agro but being an Aussie , we use plain speaking .
They are there to protect you and others near you when you are mowing
Fix them don't bypass them .
If you want to do stupid things and make your mower more dangerous to use than it already is then go to face book.
You will find it chockers with weird red neck anti authoritians who believe than making things dangerious is some how an expression of you persona freedom .
From a personal point of view I would rather no safety devices at all so in every street there would be an idiot with fingers / hands / toes missing so we would all remember that mowers are dangerous every time we see them struggleing to do simple things like walk or open doors .
On Z tracks the switches are easier to access than any other ZTR and the JD Tech manual will walk you through the diagnosis & repair proceedures in a way a 5 year old can follow them.
Sorry if this sounds agro but being an Aussie , we use plain speaking .
I would rather have someone be straight forward than not. I live a good bit from any parts stores. Just trying to figure out what all I need to get before hand so I can make one single trip.
bertsmobile1
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For the purpose of moving the mower to a safe place to work on it or doing a diagnosis you can remove the wires that ground the magnetos to turn them off at the magneto
If the solenoid on the carb is working then that will act as an off switch
Again, the JD technical manual has the proceedure to test all of the parts to determine which need to be replaced .
If the solenoid on the carb is working then that will act as an off switch
Again, the JD technical manual has the proceedure to test all of the parts to determine which need to be replaced .
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Not going try to figure out what you have bypass or not right now but here is the electrical schematic for someone that have the patience. Right now I have bad bad headache.
Thank you both for the replies and patience. I have ordered a manual and a new key switch along with a seat switch. I don't want to keep bypassing in case of forgetting I have something bypassed I'm going to take Bert's advice and just fix everything I know is wrong right and go from there before I burn it to the ground. Many thanks
bertsmobile1
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Do that and you will be answering the EZ series posts like a pro.
When I bought the repair run a decade ago I was very conversant with petrol engines but not with mowers mechanically
I struggled for a few years till I got a JD 455 ( diesel engine ) to fix so I bought the JD technical manual
Not only did I manage to repair the mower ( 3 times ) but I was then confident that I was servicing it properly ( also 3 times ) so the $ 175 manual made me over $ 2000 , a good investment .
Having found that so good I bought the 100 series manual and quickly became the guru of 100 series and again it made me a lot of money and because most Husqvarna tractors & clones are almost identical I became proficient servicing & repairing them as well .
Mower wiring is pretty basic if you split it down to individual circuits and the JD manual does exactly that .
Plus it tells you where every switch is , what every wire at every plug does + how and where to do the tests with nothing more than a multimeter or test lamp .
You will curse the dealer for not trying to sell you one with the mower .
I love the EZ series, they are very well made and very robust .
The only design failure I have found was the lift arm breaking away from the rod ( axel if you like ) but in oth cases that was on a mower that was being used by contractors every day, well above & beyond its design .
Bought and downloaded the technical manual. Finally learned how to read it and go through some troubleshooting. New key switch. Seat switch. Checked all the safety switches and pto safety switch with a multimeter. I still blow a 7.5 amp fuse which is linked to the pto switch. What am I missing?
bertsmobile1
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Sit down with a cup of your favourite brew and reread the electrical section
Obviously there is a dead short somewhere which is probably what killed your battery in the first place
Look at the connections for the key switch in the on position the B ( Battery wire ) will connect to either the A or L terminal or both , from here one of the things connected will be shorting
I would usually unplug the alternator first then the PTO clutch.
There are the 2 parts that most often short
Obviously there is a dead short somewhere which is probably what killed your battery in the first place
Look at the connections for the key switch in the on position the B ( Battery wire ) will connect to either the A or L terminal or both , from here one of the things connected will be shorting
I would usually unplug the alternator first then the PTO clutch.
There are the 2 parts that most often short