Went to my uncle's today to look at the mower.
Flywheel Key OKAY
Valve lash, ACR, Valve movement, & Pushrods OKAY
Removed the grounding wire going to the igniter module MADE NO DIFFERENCE
Still appears that the ignition timing is way off, and I see nothing that would
control that other than the $70 igniter module that was just replaced.
It seems to be sparking at some point when the intake valve is open.
Looks to have good spark.
Can these modules go bad in this way that the timing could be way off?
I tested the igniter again with my Ohm meter. Two readings are given
in the specs, depending if the Positive or Negative test lead is on
the igniter lead or case.
One reading is in spec, the other is way off. The manual says to set your
meter on 10 K setting. My meter is "auto-sensing". Manual says to use
only recommended Ohm meter, model XXXXX., etc.
Would my meter not be able to read the module correctly?
Curious, What gives the module the signal to do "it's thing"?
Only thing I could fathom would be the flywheel magnets via the
coil.
Just had a thought, could one use an automotive timing light to see
if indeed the module is making spark way off of TDC?
If so, HOW?
Thanks again!
Flywheel Key OKAY
Valve lash, ACR, Valve movement, & Pushrods OKAY
Removed the grounding wire going to the igniter module MADE NO DIFFERENCE
Still appears that the ignition timing is way off, and I see nothing that would
control that other than the $70 igniter module that was just replaced.
It seems to be sparking at some point when the intake valve is open.
Looks to have good spark.
Can these modules go bad in this way that the timing could be way off?
I tested the igniter again with my Ohm meter. Two readings are given
in the specs, depending if the Positive or Negative test lead is on
the igniter lead or case.
One reading is in spec, the other is way off. The manual says to set your
meter on 10 K setting. My meter is "auto-sensing". Manual says to use
only recommended Ohm meter, model XXXXX., etc.
Would my meter not be able to read the module correctly?
Curious, What gives the module the signal to do "it's thing"?
Only thing I could fathom would be the flywheel magnets via the
coil.
Just had a thought, could one use an automotive timing light to see
if indeed the module is making spark way off of TDC?
If so, HOW?
Thanks again!
Ok so Lets think this through. Gas fires in the cylinder. Fire should only be there. What stops the fire from entering or exiting the cylinder? Valves that are timed correctly so they open and close at the correct time so burning gas does not go into the intake manifold or exhaust manifold when it is not supposed to. So if fire is in the intake manifold either some one has places a spark plug in there or the valve is not closing at the correct time or completely. So what could cause this? Timing off, in correct valve lash. So I would check the valve lash and the shear pin. Not just look at it but remove it and inspect.