John Deere Series 100 Briggs VTwinn no start

[Tiger Small Engine]

Usually I cut my own if I do not have some left over in a rebuild kit .
Be very careful with the thickness because the thickness of the gasket controls the end play in the crank .
They used to come in packs of 4 to 6 of different thicknesses when they were sold as a stand alone item however I only seem to be able to get complete kits now days
Most mower shop that actually repair engines will have draws full of partial gasket kits and in particular crankcase gaskets

Glad you got it fixed. Rarely is it a sheared flywheel key.

 

[hlw49]

Thanks guys the flywheel key was it. Sheared and flywheel moved. After replacing it and torquing it to 150 ft lbs the engine fired up immediately on the first try!
I plan on doing more small engine and equipment work, maybe pick up not running units. It looks like a fun hobby. If I run into this again I’ll be checking the flywheel key before pulling the engine and dropping the crankcase.

Thanks again, take care and have a blessed weekend!

Next time you try to diagnose an engine problem remember this KISS keep it simple to start with and them work up to the hard stuff.

 

[Hobbesnmina2001]

You said starter and ring gear have been replaced. If the flywheel nut was not torqued to 150 ft pound it very well could be a sheared fw key. I would check it.

Actually the flywheel was tight but not torqued anywhere close to spec.

 

[Hobbesnmina2001]

Next time you try to diagnose an engine problem remember this KISS keep it simple to start with and them work up to the hard stuff.

I hear that, makes sense!

 

[Moparjoe499]

Hi all, new member trying to help a friend. I’m not a small engine expert but worked on cars.
My friend’s John Deere Series 100 125 Automatic with 20 HP Briggs V Twin has a replacement engine with some use. The engine quit and seems out timing. After watching YouTube videos I’ve checked the valve adjustment, fuel delivery and has spark. Engine had a starter and flywheel ring gear replaced. It’s not the fuel solenoid.
The engine was pulled and this model doesn’t have a decompression lever, cam looks okay and timing marks line up.
With spark plugs out and ground to head both have spark. I haven’t pulled the flywheel yet but trying to eliminate any other possibility before pulling it.
Flywheel doesn’t feel loose, owner did hear a loud sound when it quit. I never heard it yet, engine spins fine then every once in a while a backfire. The valves and push rods all go in and out don’t seem bent.
Besides a sheared flywheel key any possibilities? A small engine repair guy doesn’t think it’s the flywheel key. Saw the engine and felt it turn with crank case cover off. Nothing seems damaged inside and saw the camshaft lined up and cam condition and timing.
Cylinder compression was at 140 lbs for #1 (left side facing forward) and 160 for #2 (right side. I thought it was good amount although 20 lbs difference a bit concerning.
Any diagnosing thoughts and ideas would be great. My friend doesn’t have a lot of money and we’re trying to help although small engines admittedly are not my forte.
I don’t mind pulling the flywheel to check for a sheared key but wondering if there’s anything else it could be or to check?
Thanks

You don't have to pull the flywheel, just take the bolt off, you will be able to see if the key is sheared without pulling the flywheel.