At full engine speed you should feel a strong (subjective) air flow just below the head (s). Mice are notorious for taking up residence under the shroud that directs cooling air across the head (s) and not paying rent. If unsure, remove the shroud and check.
It only takes minutes. On my LA 135 the shroud bolts don't need to be completely removed, just loosen. The 4 filter screen screws on top of the flywheel will need to be completely removed. If same size as mine a 3/8 and 5/16 socket is all the tools required.
I know you checked the holes in the gas cap, but just to totally eliminate that as the issue I would loosen the cap a bit and run with it before chasing something else.
Blow it out, clean it out and always check it out!
Any machine, air or liquid cooled, that operates in the outdoors needs routine cleaning.
I may have omitted one step. If your mower engine is a V-twin engine the air cleaner housing may need to come off. No big deal. It's been awhile.:laughing:
When a bad coil gets hot it grounds out and stops working.
When you cooled it off it goes back to working.
OMG
I took the shroud off and there wasn't anything under there except a little film of dirt, but I cleaned if off.
I put B&S oil in it. Called the John Deere Dealer and he said I shouldn't mix the part synthetic oil with the regular and it would get hotter but not enough to make it die.
I mowed 4 laps!! And then it died. I cooled it off with my leaf bower and mowed 2 more laps. Before it dies it starts surging A LOT.
I also noticed the air plenum extension was coming apart and the clip was barely on there. If you close the hood and look thru the louvers there are some gaps where the
extension fits around the grill on top of the fly wheel. Sounds stupid but if all the heat isn't exiting thru the louvers could that make it too hot? The air plenum extension has a small melted spot on it.
I took it off and tried to close the gap but it didn't work. JD dealer is closed and they don't have any in stock anyway. I can't find any pictures of one but I think the gap should be closed????
I did forget to loosen the gas cap, I will try to remember when I go back out, but I did blow air thru it yesterday and it is clean as a whistle.
The JD guy said maybe a coil???? Guess I will watch some youtube videos on coils and check back to see if anyone has any ideas.
Thanks for all the tips, I do appreciate you all taking the time to read this and reply!!!!!!!
When a bad coil gets hot it grounds out and stops working.
When you cooled it off it goes back to working.
OMG
I took the shroud off and there wasn't anything under there except a little film of dirt, but I cleaned if off.
I put B&S oil in it. Called the John Deere Dealer and he said I shouldn't mix the part synthetic oil with the regular and it would get hotter but not enough to make it die.
I mowed 4 laps!! And then it died. I cooled it off with my leaf bower and mowed 2 more laps. Before it dies it starts surging A LOT.
I also noticed the air plenum extension was coming apart and the clip was barely on there. If you close the hood and look thru the louvers there are some gaps where the
extension fits around the grill on top of the fly wheel. Sounds stupid but if all the heat isn't exiting thru the louvers could that make it too hot? The air plenum extension has a small melted spot on it.
I took it off and tried to close the gap but it didn't work. JD dealer is closed and they don't have any in stock anyway. I can't find any pictures of one but I think the gap should be closed????
I did forget to loosen the gas cap, I will try to remember when I go back out, but I did blow air thru it yesterday and it is clean as a whistle.
The JD guy said maybe a coil???? Guess I will watch some youtube videos on coils and check back to see if anyone has any ideas.
Thanks for all the tips, I do appreciate you all taking the time to read this and reply!!!!!!!
Try leaving the plenum off and see if it stays cooler.
also, If the engine is running too lean it can get hot.
The design is to cool with outdoor ambient air rather than the flywheel air pump attempting to cool with hot air from the engine compartment. It needs the hood and the plenum.
Can be as mentioned earlier running on the lean side. BUT, if yours drinks gas like mine that won't be the problem.Could it be a carb issue?
Tinner talk LOLOL!!!! You are right but I actually looked it up in the JD Parts Catalog so you all would know what I was talking about
I am also a commercial/industrial roofer, but that talk isn't allowed on here, aahahaha.
Yes, my John Deere looks like that, just no bumper and some peeling pain and a little rust on the deck. I bought it in 2005!
I always mow at full throttle, in case you were wondering.
I call the JD dealer so much they offered me a job :laughing: So is mowing without the hood on a really bad idea?
I don't mean to be such a girl but I thought it would stay cool that way. It has cooled off at least 10 degrees in the last hour, maybe 15. I am going to go see how many laps I can get.
I will be back......
I bought my JD LX277 at auction. It had no hood.
I use it without one. The 4 parts needed to replace would be $500-600 dollars
A hood is decoration and protection from the rain. I do not mow in the rain.
A push mower does not have a hood.
Well.....
Called the JD dealer and talked to a different guy, he said it is NOT the coil! He had no clue without seeing it. It's $45.00 just for them to come and get it
He mentioned a compression test but I am clueless on that one and sure I don't have the tool to do it. I might try a fuel pump??
I have a Dodge 1500 4x4. It was doing the same thing, would be going down the highway and it would lose all power. We didn't think it was the fuel pump because I replaced it once.
If I waited 5 minutes on the side of the road, it would be OK and I would make it home. Any thoughts??
Thanks again for everyone trying to help. It's hard when you can't see the actual mower.
I appreciate it!! :biggrin:
So you saying we don't need to operate the way they were designed to operate.
If it's that way the next time you need to change oil but all you have handy is automatic transmission fluid just put that in and it'll be ok.
So the guy on the phone is guessing the same as we are.
Even though I have no doubt you know what's hot and what's not, let's back up and do some temperature investigation of just how hot it is.
I would run it till it shuts off then check for spark. As soon as it shuts off.
So you saying we don't need to operate the way they were designed to operate.
If it's that way the next time you need to change oil but all you have handy is automatic transmission fluid just put that in and it'll be ok.