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Hood has broken plastic bolts with push on metal nuts. Most of the plastic bolts have broken off. Also the air intake housing is loose due to the plastic clips that holds it under the plastic hood. Any suggestions on how to fix this problem will be appreciated.
gemret

Are you talking about the plastic studs that hold the grill into the hood? Also what part are you talking about with the air cleaner, the filter cover?

You can plastic weld them to replace all of the clips and build up the holes that have flogged out.
Eastwoods have the best gear at reasonable prices.
Plastic welding is very very easy to do provided the hood is not so UV damaged it has become very brittle.
Other than that the only "magic" thing is to make sure every thing is really really clean

Other than that, get a replacement hood, they are not that expensive.
Just the bare hood and transfer allof the fiddley stying bits across from your old hoog and forget about the decals which are very expensive.

reynoldston said:

Are you talking about the plastic studs that hold the grill into the hood? Also what part are you talking about with the air cleaner, the filter cover?

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Yes, plastic studs are a more accurate description than bolts. The studs are molded into the hood, then they are inserted into the metal hood braces, then the nuts are pushed on to the studs to hold them in place so the hood can be lifted and lowered. I am thinking rather than buying a new hood I can drill out the broken off studs and use metal bolts and nuts to hold the hood in place.
As to the air cleaner, It is not really an air cleaner but an air chute mounted under the hood that guides the air from louvers in the hood into the top of the engine for cooling. The chute is inserted into two brackets to hold it under the hood. One of the plastic brackets molded into the hood is broken off allowing one side of the chute to drop down. I will try to do the same thing with the chute as I mentioned for the hood unless someone has a better idea.
Thanks,
Jim

Thanks for the information. I will check the cost of a new hood.

Not cheap

If you are not bothered too much by appearence then those studs can be drilled out, the hole filed square then coach bolts fitted.
If you do that, rubber washers under the head of the bolts are a must ( I cut them from old inner tubes )
Every now & then I get my hands on some green ones from a local shed maker.

bertsmobile1 said:

If you are not bothered too much by appearence then those studs can be drilled out, the hole filed square then coach bolts fitted.
If you do that, rubber washers under the head of the bolts are a must ( I cut them from old inner tubes )
Every now & then I get my hands on some green ones from a local shed maker.

Click to expand...

This sounds like the best route.

When I get a broken hood to repair in my shop that the customer dosen't what to spend the money to replace. Two things happen, Remove hood and run it that way or I will try to use cap screws and bolt it together the best as I can. Unless you can find a used hood or E-Bay it will be big money to replace.

reynoldston said:

When I get a broken hood to repair in my shop that the customer dosen't what to spend the money to replace. Two things happen, Remove hood and run it that way or I will try to use cap screws and bolt it together the best as I can. Unless you can find a used hood or E-Bay it will be big money to replace.

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Interesting about the "big money" .
Down here 100 series start at $ 3000 .
A new bare hood is $ 150 which I consider to be a reasonable price.
A hood complete with decals & trim is $ 500 which I would consider expensive.

I talked to the John Deere parts department in Lexington, Ky. They were not aware of any improvements in the L100 hood. Replacing the hood with new one would be inviting the same problem again. I have decided to drill out the studs and use the suggestions previously posted here.
Thanks,
Jim Ret