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I was given this GX75, it need the carb cleand and a bunch of greasing. I finally got it runing yesterday, and attempted to ride it around and make sure the blade was working correctly. When I put the transmission in any gear the mower failed to move, the brake was applied and the drive belt is in like new condition. Can anyone give me some idea on where to start lookingor what I need to do next?

I am going to make a guess here as to the model 75 is a lot like the model 68. Things to look for, a striped key way on the drive axles. This can happen out by the wheels or inside into the differential. Another trouble spot is the drive chain inside gear case has problems with the plastic chain tensioner. The chain wouldn't brake but will come off the sprockets. The old rear engine JD mowers don't have a very strong drive train. This is just a couple of things I have had come into my shop but you will still have to check out what your problem is.

Thank you for your input. I will get out there today and take a closer look and see what else I can come up with. I have never had a mower like this before so it's all new to me.

They were John Deere's cheaper mower for the home owner and still a lot of them out there. Its getting harder to find parts for them anymore seeing John Deere quit making them. The big problem I find with then is that they didn't turn very sharp.

Well i tore into it today and found none of the issues that might cause the mower not to move..... Really at a loss of what to do next. Does anyone else want to jump in and give me any ideas of what to try next?

well I will try again
Navigate your way to jdpc ( john deere part catalogue ) . com
Type in GX75 and hit the "model search" button.
When that comes up go to sectional index and from there you can get a copy of the varios bits in the drive train from the engine, through the clutch to the gearbox/diff.
I tried to post the actaual url but the server croked

check that the clutch is working properly and the belt is turning the imput shaft pulley on top of the transmission.
While you are there check that the shaft itself is turning ( might need a mirror for that one )
If both look good then it is out with the transmission.
The sliding keys ( part 42) break when clots change gear wile moving or without using the clutch or with a bad clutch.

Well I tore it down yesterday and the key was missing inside the transfer, replaced it and the mower is moving. Thank you for the info. Now it's time to stop moving, the PO removed the brake pads. Is there any special requirements to install or tear down the brake assembly? I am picking up new pads today around noon. THanks for your help again.

tim2 said:

Well I tore it down yesterday and the key was missing inside the transfer, replaced it and the mower is moving. Thank you for the info. Now it's time to stop moving, the PO removed the brake pads. Is there any special requirements to install or tear down the brake assembly? I am picking up new pads today around noon. THanks for your help again.

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As I recall that model has a small disc brake on the side of the transmission that operates with its own petal. Just make sure the pins are free to move and adjust it so the brake stops the mower.

I am making an attempt to remove the transmission one more time. Got the pads today and another tire as one was dry rotted very badly.

tim2 said:

I am making an attempt to remove the transmission one more time. Got the pads today and another tire as one was dry rotted very badly.

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Some times a tire will just get so much dry rot you just have to replace it, but for just not holding air anymore I find a inner tube works good.

I had a customer tell me he ran over so many sharp objects that an inner tube would not be worth it. Inner tubes can't be patched or plugged while till on the mower, tires can.

primerbulb120 said:

I had a customer tell me he ran over so many sharp objects that an inner tube would not be worth it. Inner tubes can't be patched or plugged, tires can.

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I have to agree with you on this. Someone like that needs their tires filled with a solid filler. Wouldn't be a very smooth ride. I am afraid that model 75 JD just wouldn't hold up the added stress also. So my suggestion would be pick up the sharp objects and it would also be a lot cheaper.

primerbulb120 said:

I had a customer tell me he ran over so many sharp objects that an inner tube would not be worth it. Inner tubes can't be patched or plugged, tires can.

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Please tell me you posted that after 1 or 2 too many Buds.
Tubes get patched every day I go through a trade pack of 200 patches more or less every two years.
I put 6 on a tube last week.
And yes it would have been cheaper & better to fit a new tube but I only carry about 15 different sizes and the customer wanted it done right now so he could go home & mow before the temperature got in the high 30's ( C not F )

How do you go about patching a tube while it's still inside the tire?? The customer doesn't have the equipment to remove the tire and I don't either, we would have to take the wheel to a tire shop and have them remove the tire before we could patch the tube.

I didn't mean that the inner tube can't be patched at all, I meant that it can't be patched without removing the tire. Thanks for pointing that out.

primerbulb120 said:

How do you go about patching a tube while it's still inside the tire?? The customer doesn't have the equipment to remove the tire and I don't either, we would have to take the wheel to a tire shop and have them remove the tire before we could patch the tube.

I didn't mean that the inner tube can't be patched at all, I meant that it can't be patched without removing the tire. Thanks for pointing that out.

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That puts a different slant on things.
Big differenc between WE can't and IT can't
If you can break the bead then you can remove the tyre with nothing more than a dozen cable ties.
Watched a motorcyclist do it at a rally while a little less than sober

I pulled the tranny outr again and replace the brakes and all of the grease. Everything went well until the mower fell off the jack and crushed my hand. I have one side left to put back together tomorrow and then I will see what it can do. Thanks for all the pointers.

bertsmobile1 said:

That puts a different slant on things.
Big differenc between WE can't and IT can't
If you can break the bead then you can remove the tyre with nothing more than a dozen cable ties.
Watched a motorcyclist do it at a rally while a little less than sober

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So you change mower tires with zip ties. Never tried it. As for me I break the bead with a bread breaker and hammer then I use tire irons to remove and install the tire. With just a little care you wouldn't pinch the tube. I also have to say that tube pinching isn't a problem I come across. Some of the tubeless tires I do have some trouble airing the tires sometimes.

Never heard of zip ties thing but I know how to air up the tire with a retching strap down the center of the tire. tighten until both bead touch rim then inflate. Don't wait too long to remove the strap then continue filling.

BlazNT said:

Never heard of zip ties thing but I know how to air up the tire with a retching strap down the center of the tire. tighten until both bead touch rim then inflate. Don't wait too long to remove the strap then continue filling.

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Only seen it done once and that was on a motorcycle wheel so don't actually know if it will work on a small diameter rim.
Try using a rope looped around itself next time as you just let it loose as the tyre goes up ( wear gloves if you don't like rope burns ) .
FWIW I use an old motorcycle tool called a breezer however those Harbour Freight mini tyre changers are looking better every day.

I have the Harbor Freight mini tire changer and it paid for its self no problem. Word of warning... there are some rims that the little thing can just not do. Very wide one with a long internal slide as I call it. Picture will be attached. I have changed over 30 tires since I purchased it. Less than a year. Neighbors and friends found out I had it.
Easy rim:
Hard rim:

BlazNT said:

I have the Harbor Freight mini tire changer and it paid for its self no problem. Word of warning... there are some rims that the little thing can just not do. Very wide one with a long internal slide as I call it. Picture will be attached. I have changed over 30 tires since I purchased it. Less than a year. Neighbors and friends found out I had it.
Easy rim:View attachment 28019
Hard rim:View attachment 28020

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Nothing like that available bown here :thumbdown: been looking for a while now and HF will not send one to Australia.
Making one has been on the "round tuit" list for a ages but it is now only about 20 from the top

When it comes lawn mower tires it's the ZT castor tires that fight me the most. The drive tires are one of the easiest tires to work with. The JD model GX75 front tires can also be a challenge. Its more so when they get old and rusty.

The Torro casters are the worst.
All the new models have a significant toe in on the caster pivot , which does actually make them steer better but it means ou have to regularly swap left to right or they are through to the canvass in no time flat.
Change a pair of them nearly every week. Next to the rears on Husqvarna tractors probably the worst tyres to change.

primerbulb120 said:

I had a customer tell me he ran over so many sharp objects that an inner tube would not be worth it. Inner tubes can't be patched or plugged while till on the mower, tires can.

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Sounds like me but they are thorns from briars. Upside is I can plug tires much faster.:laughing:

When he got out his John Deere RX63 it had a piece of chicken wire stuck in the tire.

I really do not understan how my post for help became a place to chit chat about changing a tire with zip ties............... I would like to thank the one person that gave me his advice and, think all the rest of you should be band from misusing this forum.

tim2 said:

I really do not understan how my post for help became a place to chit chat about changing a tire with zip ties............... I would like to thank the one person that gave me his advice and, think all the rest of you should be band from misusing this forum.

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Your # 9 post you said you replaced a tire because of dry rot and I just suggested a inner tube as a different option. Now the tie rap thing I just never heard of before so was just asking. If that is what got you up sit I will bow out.

Dear Tim 2
As I read the post , both Reyondson & Myself posted direct answers to your question and as far as I read it your no drive problem was solved.
The last post regarding a problem was with your tyres and so methods of tyre changing were quite relevant as you now know you can get a really good machine which will work on mower tyres from Harbour Freight.
Perhaps some better pain relief for your hand ( which I am sorry to hear about ) might be in order.

Also remember some poeple us a browser so they see every thing from the first post to the last.
Others get emails so they only see the last post and respond accordingly.

The information you git from here was worht well over $ 200 in saved shop fees so i se no reason for vitriole, unless of course you hand is hurting too much.

OK, I am waking up an old post. This mower belongs to my neighbor and he just told me that he has to jup start it. As soon as he unhooks the jumper cables the mower dies. What do I need to look into to try and make it run so he can cut grass???????????????

if you want help, start a new post .
use a descriptive name like GX 75 engine dies when jump pack removed.