Walk behind JD JX75 Wheel Replacement Bolts break constantly

[bertsmobile1]

The guess is a shinny bum & JD haas found a "more cost effective" bolt supplier and they got load of grade 3 bolts ( grade 3 = strong putty ) in place of 5's which would be normal for that application.

Not worth going mental over, get a pair of grade 8 from a reputable bolt supplier.
If you are really churley about it get onto JD's HO and complain about the bolts.

 

[dell835]

Good ideas - I will grease the bolt & check bushings. The bolt is hot when it breaks. I have had no luck finding a bolt this size. As for posting pictures - They are JD replacement bolts & they break in the middle of the threads. They do seem to be bent when they break - will check those bushings.

 

[dell835]

Put new wheels on the rear - They come with bearings & bushings. Big improvement - Lots less side play & slop. I think this is going to solve the problem.

 

[GoldenGoat]

I break at least one every year but my lawn has a steep hill and mowing sideways on the hill is hard on the mower. I just broke one this year with wheels that were replaced last year. I only mow my yard. I think part of the problem is the design of the bolt. Its just too small on the end with threads. Its only 5/16" thick on the threads and 1/2" thick on the shaft that goes through the bushing. Grease may help on the bushing, haven't tried that. Noticed that the commercial version metal wheels (14sc, JX85) seem to use a bearing in place of the bushing on the front. I would like to have thicker bolts for the wheels but that would equal having a different/modified wheel along with possibly a different/modified height adjuster.

 

[stlspartan]

It's not a mistake - it's a plan.

I don't think this is an issue of bad design. In fact, it's very good design. The wheel bolts can't be arbitrarily strong. A push lawn mower has virtually no suspension, substantial weight and is constantly being abused by running it into rocks, foundations, trees, etc. Do you really think JD skimped on the bolts for their $900 mower or that they don't know what a grade 8 bolt is? If you use a grade 8 bolt then the bolt won't break but the very expensive (and nearly irreplaceable) aluminum deck will break and instead of buying a $2 bolt you'll be buying a mower. JD has done you a great favor by designing the cheapest part to fail when abused.

(I know I'm replying to an old thread, but I've seen this complaint before and feel that JD should be defended in this case)

 

[GoldenGoat]

On the newer JX75 model with the FJ180V engine they used thicker bolt hardware. I also own the newer JX75. On my steep hill, it would never break those. For my 14SB, mowing the steep hill sideways would cause the bolts to flex at the 5/16" part and then flex the opposite direction, eventually breaking a bolt about every month or 2. (About 5 to 10 mowings)

For my 14SB I fixed this problem by modifying the height adjusters. I drilled and tap larger holes to hold thicker bolts and used other various hardware to make it all work. Mowed with it on that steep hill for 2 years and never broke. Was also able to use JS63 wheels(aka newer JX75 wheels) which last much, much longer than the stock wheels.

Photos are on mytractorforum. Do a google search for "js63 wheels jx75 machine mytractorforum" and find the link to mytractorforum. Sorry, this forum won't yet let me post links

 

[Unleashed]

Re: It's not a mistake - it's a plan.

How, then, do you explain having this problem occur after 17 reliable years of service from my John Deere 14sb mower? Since 2013, I have had to regularly replace the shoulder bolts on the rear wheels once or twice per season. As you mentioned, this has been a common complaint. Could it be because John Deere no longer manufactures walk behind mowers so there is less concern for the quality of replacement parts?

 

[stlspartan]

Ok, ok - perhaps my experience isn't typical, or the jx75 I bought in 2002 had improved wheel bolts. I've broken one of them in 16 years when I caught a cobblestone edge at full speed and snapped the wheel off. At first I was heartbroken over my crippled mower but the fix was cheap and easy and my beloved mower was unscathed. Later, I read a post by somebody who did pretty much the same thing and they were complaining that the JX75 was crap. It just shows how folks can see things differently. As I said earlier - when a 100 lb lawnmower hits a block of granite at full speed - something is going to break and I am very happy that it was the wheel bolt. I'm fixing up a JX75 for my sister right now and one of the front wheel bushings is sheared clean off. I've no clue how they managed that. Dropped it off a truck?

So, as compensation for anyone I have insulted I'm going to pass along my little trick for reattaching the godforsaken spring that connects the blade brake/clutch to the hook on the underside of the mower. (without the fancy JD tool). You will need two large screwdrivers, one must be flat bladed and I prefer Phillips for the other. Hook one end of the spring to the tab on the clutch. If you were then to put the other end of the spring over a screwdriver and try prying it into place you will find it very difficult. (here is my trick) Take the flat bladed screwdriver and push it into the coils of the spring adjacent to the free hook. Then hold the second screwdriver perpendicular to the mower deck and brace it against the ribbing on the underside of the deck. This will create a fulcrum that you can rest the first screwdriver against and then by manipulating the two in just the right way the spring can "easily" be slid into place. There, I've told you. I was planning to retire on this secret but I've have sacrificed my plan... for you.