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Hello. this is my first post and fist off all i say Hi to you all..=)
Im from Sweden so my spelling will be strange sometimes, but i hope you all understand what i wright.

I bought a 2001 JD F735 for a week ago, it dident run so i gott it cheap, it have only 210 hours on it and have sit in a garage for about 15-18 years
it looks almost brand new.
the first thing i did was to remove tank, hoses,injectors, injector pump and governor, and ultrasonic cleaned everything then it fired up directly and starts and run good.
but after about 2 hours of engine time i see that the engine consumes oil, about 1dl on a hour, and i can smell oil burning and a very light blue smoke
my thinking is that the piston oil rings have stuck when it has been sitting for 15 years, or maby valve guide seals dry up, my own believes is that it is not the guide seals because 1dl in a hour seams to much for them to be bad? anyway anyone have a tip to free those oil-rings up or what to do to?
or any idea on this issue would be nice..

/Doger

I forgot, the engine is a Yanmar 2V78 Diesel

What type and grade oil are you using?

I use fully synthetic 10w30

That's really good oil, for gas engines in cars. Before getting inside the engine I'd change the oil to a diesel specification oil, 15w40 to meet
API CI-4 classification that meets or exceeds API CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF/SJ. This is recommended by Yanmar.

Being that old, all of the oil seals will have gone dry & hard.
I am amazed that it did not pour oil from the crank shaft seals as well.
Yes the valve stem oil seals will be bad and yes the rings can be stuck but a few runs with a good grade of oil should free them up.

it is a diesel spec oil and what i can understand is ok?, are they sensitive on to thin oil?

not a drop of oil anyware, yes it is rather strange after 15 years..=), i will put this Omega 917 in it tomorrow, i have had much luck with this stop leak, it pore out the calk(chalky deposit) in the rubber that make them hard and the seals start to seal again, i hope this will work.

If you possibly have stuck rings you can pull the injectors and put a few ounces of Seafoam in each cylinder and let it set overnight. Spin the engine over a few times with the starter before putting the injectors back in. Put 15w40 in it and run it and see what happens.

you can not buy seafoam in Sweden, but i buyed one on ebay a while back.., now it is coming to handy..=)
i will change the oil to 15w40, need to find a god one, i have read on internet that ppl put some ATF oil in the oil, and that will clean the internal off the engine, but it seams scary...

i read on the seafoam bottle that you can add this to the engine oil, anyone tried that?

i should have about 70ml in 2.3l oil, your pint and quarts converted to liter.

On this side of the pond Seafoam is used by lots of guys with old tractors. We use it in the crankcase and in the gas. It cleans the deposits out.

I would suggest that you put oil designed for diesel engines. Diesel oil is a little different in composition than oil for gas engines.

mac said:

I would suggest that you put oil designed for diesel engines. Diesel oil is a little different in composition than oil for gas engines.

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That's why I would recommend Rotella T6 though the regular Rotella grades will work.

I still suggest that you use oil designed for Diesel engines. They wouldn’t have produced it if it didn’t make a difference.

The oil you're using is fine. All diesel oils are very high detergent, having TBN's of 15 or so. If there is gunk to clean out, they will do it; that's why they turn black so quickly.

I would not put that transmission seal saver in the engine.

Mow with it for 20-30 hours, changing the oil every ten hours and see if the oil consumption lessens before you tear it apart.

Seafoam in progress.

i think i maby find the reason, Wrong dipstick!!!
and also wrong info in the service manual, my manual says 2.27 Liters without oil filter, and then it is to the mark "full" on dipstick,
but when i go to John deere home site it says max oil without oil filter 1.9 liter, so i have about 0,4 liter to much oil in the engine!!!!, i took the air intake off today and i could not believe my eyes, about 2-3 dl oil drained out and the intakes was totally covered with oil, the smoke and burning oil comes from crankcase vent, and ofcourse with 0.4l to much oil in the engine it will overflow, have not had the chance to test if this is the issue, but im pretty sure i solved the problem.
what do you guys think?, 0.4l to mutch oil can force oil out the crankcase vent?

Be careful. Diesels can, and will, run on crankcase oil and you have no control over the rpm generated. Lots of diesel engines have been destroyed by inhaling their own lube oil.

Unless you are certain that the dipstick is the wrong one, I'd go by the dipstick, not a quantity specified in a manual, regardless of who wrote the manual.

Ahhh I see the problem with the oil fill amounts. Someone didn't pay attention proof reading the manual. It is 2.27 with filter and 1.9 without filter. Got similar info in the owners manual but just before the oil capacity it talks about changing the oil filter.

cpurvis said:

Be careful. Diesels can, and will, run on crankcase oil and you have no control over the rpm generated. Lots of diesel engines have been destroyed by inhaling their own lube oil.

Unless you are certain that the dipstick is the wrong one, I'd go by the dipstick, not a quantity specified in a manual, regardless of who wrote the manual.

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i mesured the oil when i filled it, 2.27 without filter liter, but on john deere website it says 1.9 without filter
this is scary, my good if it had started rev like crazy........

What I'm trying to tell you is to use the dipstick to tell when the crankcase is full.

1. Drain the oil
2. Replace the oil filter
3. Fill the crankcase to the 'full' mark on the dipstick
4. Start the engine and run for a few minutes, check for leaks
5. Re-check the oil level; fill to 'full' mark as required

In your case, check the oil often and also check for oil in the intake manifold/tubes.

And leave the engine sit, not running, for several minutes before checking the oil.

I NEVER start my mowers without first checking the oil level. That was ingrained in me at a young age by my Dad.

If he hired someone to operate an excavator, & they did NOT check the oil/ coolant & etc. before they fired up the machine, then were Fired on the spot.

Doggydoggen said:

i mesured the oil when i filled it, 2.27 without filter liter, but on john deere website it says 1.9 without filter
this is scary, my good if it had started rev like crazy........

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What makes you think you have the wrong dip stick?

If you can put the dipstick beside the fill tube, and see how far it goes down into the sump (oil pan), that should give you a good idea if you have the right or wrong dipstick.

And to follow on from PT, the full mark should be just below the sump gasket .
This is done to prevent them leaking out the gasket when not being used .

i replaced the pcv hoses from pcv valve to intake and the hoses from the heads with clear hoses, and when the engine had run about 2 minutes the oil started to push up from the valve covers and after 5 minutes the oil entered the intake manifold, i removed the injectors and made a compression test, both cylinders seams ok with about 400 psi(28 bar), exactly the same for booth cylinders.
after that i changed the 15w40 oil with thinner 10w30 and now the oil rise in the hoses is gone and everything seams ok now, strange this?