Issues with pto (solved)

[Bearrepair]

Ok so to start with this i figured the pto switch was bad i took multi meter to it and was not getting complete connectivity through the prongs when pto would be engaged so i ordered a new one. I installed it and still didnt work so i went through checked all the safety switches and all were operating normally so i pulled the new switch and found it had one set of prongs that did not work when engaged so i returned it and got a new one. When i installed the newest switch and attempted this resister or fuse that is connected to the terminals in the wire connector going to the pto burned and split. Now the pto reads 2.9 ohms whitch i thought was good for pto so what are my options anyone have an idea what might have caused this maybe im missing something. I have the 20hp vanguard on this model including in the pictures is the simplicity model designation.

 

[ILENGINE]

That is actually a diode to prevent electric feedback and surge voltage when the pto clutch is turned off. they fail on occasion so remove it and see if the clutch works.

 

[Bearrepair]

That is actually a diode to prevent electric feedback and surge voltage when the pto clutch is turned off. they fail on occasion so remove it and see if the clutch works.

Yeap that seemed to help! The clutch gave that clunk noise after i removed that part and tested volts going down then put the connector back on gave it a few on and off tests to verify for sure.
Any reason why tho with that part on might it have been an issue?

 

[ILENGINE]

The idea behind the clamping diode is to prevent electrical spikes due to the electric clutch acting like a generator when shutoff. They spike has been know to destroy the EFI ECU's on engines as well as some of Kohler's earlier spark advance systems. They have been know to short out internally causing a short the damaged switches and blows fuses. In some cases should be replaced when damaged but not a part that is really available separately.

 

[StarTech]

The electrical impulse is call inductive kick back. It also how magneto ignition coils works by collapsing the transformer primary winding magnetic field and generating a large electrical signal in the transformer's secondary. Just in the case of the PTO we are not wanting the induced voltage back feeding into the electrical system. All inductors, solenoids, relays, and transformers produce this kickback. In the case relays and electric when this feed in strong can these to oscillate. I personally have seen relays to chatter the contacts with the damping diodes are not in place. or have failed.

 

[Bearrepair]

Thanks all for the information. Hopefully i won't have any issues later on with the diod being removed then as you are right ilengine i don't see replacement for it

 

[ILENGINE]

Thanks all for the information. Hopefully i won't have any issues later on with the diod being removed then as you are right ilengine i don't see replacement for it

Here is a link to the Kohler pto clamping diode kit

https://www.amazon.com/Kohler-25-755-40-S-Original-Equipment-Manufacturer/dp/B00A7YXSI0

 

[bertsmobile1]

The diode should have some numbers on it that will identify it
Any reasonable electrical component store will be able to identify it and supply a replacement
Do not be surprised if you have to buy a pack of 10 or 20
When you remove it , cut one wire long and the other short so you remember which way it went in
They are directional so backwards will give you grief
Stick the remainders on Evilpay for double what you paid for them.

 

[StarTech]

I was going to suggest that the OP if the numbers were still readable to post them. Usually a couple fifty terminals and the diode is all that is needed to be replaced. And take a picture of the current layout would help too.

Plus it help us that does the component level repairs to know diode was used. Personally I don't see a reason a for shop to have to pay 3X or more for the parts and then have to charge the customer even more.

 

[Bearrepair]

I was going to suggest that the OP if the numbers were still readable to post them. Usually a couple fifty terminals and the diode is all that is needed to be replaced. And take a picture of the current layout would help too.

Plus it help us that does the component level repairs to know diode was used. Personally I don't see a reason a for shop to have to pay 3X or more for the parts and then have to charge the customer even more.

Unfortunately the crack right down the middle burned any identifying numbers i could make out so i have no idea what it was i could install another and Solder it in no problem . I could not find it on parts lists tho when looking